Possible cheap fix for failed window regulator
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John Deere
Possible cheap fix for failed window regulator
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sk...ts+%26+Mirrors
It's a bit hard to tell from the small picture, but this $10 part may actually be the same part of the window regulator assembly that we've all had to replace (twice in my case).
Instead of spending $60++ for a new assembly, when it is always the cheap plastic roller tip that fails.
It's a bit hard to tell from the small picture, but this $10 part may actually be the same part of the window regulator assembly that we've all had to replace (twice in my case).
Instead of spending $60++ for a new assembly, when it is always the cheap plastic roller tip that fails.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 5,942
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From: Seattle WA
99 E320
yes, super mod, that little part is the crux of many (not just a few) of the
*rear* window regulator ailments. it is really that inexpensive. but there is
a catch. it's not a plug and play part. it is also the solution ONLY if, upon
examination of the broken rear regulator, that the white plastic piece which
hold both ends of the cable, has fractured.
the item you linked requires that you drill out that metal pin/rivet first.
you then drill out the pin on the failed part on your existing regulator.
swap the broken white piece and replace using the new, green piece and
reinstall a new pin/rivet.
the task of drilling out two rivets, sourcing a replacement, reattaching with
new rivets etc may initially take 2+ hrs. once you have all this scoped out,
any future fixes for this same problem may take .5 hr.
=====
some folks will simply buy a non-MB replacement off Ebay and pay about $40
in the process, getting the whole new regular arm, plastic fittings, and strand
cable.
the motor is usually not included and if it does, the price will hover $100+.
if the old motor is otherwise still functional (and it usually is), just unscrew
and mount it on your new regulator arm. a 1-2 min job
*rear* window regulator ailments. it is really that inexpensive. but there is
a catch. it's not a plug and play part. it is also the solution ONLY if, upon
examination of the broken rear regulator, that the white plastic piece which
hold both ends of the cable, has fractured.
the item you linked requires that you drill out that metal pin/rivet first.
you then drill out the pin on the failed part on your existing regulator.
swap the broken white piece and replace using the new, green piece and
reinstall a new pin/rivet.
the task of drilling out two rivets, sourcing a replacement, reattaching with
new rivets etc may initially take 2+ hrs. once you have all this scoped out,
any future fixes for this same problem may take .5 hr.
=====
some folks will simply buy a non-MB replacement off Ebay and pay about $40
in the process, getting the whole new regular arm, plastic fittings, and strand
cable.
the motor is usually not included and if it does, the price will hover $100+.
if the old motor is otherwise still functional (and it usually is), just unscrew
and mount it on your new regulator arm. a 1-2 min job
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Feb 2002
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John Deere
Damn, Raymond.
I guess if you're drilling out the old regulator in the first place, may as well just get the aftermarket assembly. Worked for me for about 5 years so far. But I figured if somebody really wanted to save a buck...
Speaking of which, anyone drilling out the OEM steel rivets should use a corded drill. Mine died, so I used an 18 volt cordless the second time at the dance, and I went from 7 minutes to over an hour getting out the three rivets. In the dead of winter to boot.
I guess if you're drilling out the old regulator in the first place, may as well just get the aftermarket assembly. Worked for me for about 5 years so far. But I figured if somebody really wanted to save a buck...
Speaking of which, anyone drilling out the OEM steel rivets should use a corded drill. Mine died, so I used an 18 volt cordless the second time at the dance, and I went from 7 minutes to over an hour getting out the three rivets. In the dead of winter to boot.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 5,942
Likes: 178
From: Seattle WA
99 E320
what i find amusing is the advice given on one (or more) of the 210 forums.
when someone posts e.g. "I'm going to buy one of the cheap rear regulators
on Ebay for $50..." someone is sure to recommend that they should stick
with a quality item [sic] such as OEM/Mercedes unit.
uhm....hello, foo. guess which manuf has a well established record of failing
window regulators? yup, the MB, OEM part.
when someone posts e.g. "I'm going to buy one of the cheap rear regulators
on Ebay for $50..." someone is sure to recommend that they should stick
with a quality item [sic] such as OEM/Mercedes unit.
uhm....hello, foo. guess which manuf has a well established record of failing
window regulators? yup, the MB, OEM part.
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 485
Likes: 2
W212 & W210
what i find amusing is the advice given on one (or more) of the 210 forums.
when someone posts e.g. "I'm going to buy one of the cheap rear regulators
on Ebay for $50..." someone is sure to recommend that they should stick
with a quality item [sic] such as OEM/Mercedes unit.
uhm....hello, foo. guess which manuf has a well established record of failing
window regulators? yup, the MB, OEM part.
when someone posts e.g. "I'm going to buy one of the cheap rear regulators
on Ebay for $50..." someone is sure to recommend that they should stick
with a quality item [sic] such as OEM/Mercedes unit.
uhm....hello, foo. guess which manuf has a well established record of failing
window regulators? yup, the MB, OEM part.
I've never read anyone recommending the MB part but if they did, they need some help.
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 9,815
Likes: 13
John Deere
what i find amusing is the advice given on one (or more) of the 210 forums.
when someone posts e.g. "I'm going to buy one of the cheap rear regulators
on Ebay for $50..." someone is sure to recommend that they should stick
with a quality item [sic] such as OEM/Mercedes unit.
uhm....hello, foo. guess which manuf has a well established record of failing
window regulators? yup, the MB, OEM part.
when someone posts e.g. "I'm going to buy one of the cheap rear regulators
on Ebay for $50..." someone is sure to recommend that they should stick
with a quality item [sic] such as OEM/Mercedes unit.
uhm....hello, foo. guess which manuf has a well established record of failing
window regulators? yup, the MB, OEM part.
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Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 39
Likes: 2
2015 SL400 and 2004 SL500
Ebay Regulator - buy 2
When I bought my E420 I broke the right rear window regulator while playing with the remote to close all the windows when parking. Replaced the broken regulator with a $30 item off ebay. This works fine.
THe rear windows rarely get used in my car, but this weekend I drove my mother in law to a show and she wanted the windows down a bit. Now- after two years I once again used the remote to shut all the windows on a hot day - and BANG the left rear broke. I should have bought regulators for both sides last time.
Is there some issue with using the remote closing that increases the risk of damage???
THe rear windows rarely get used in my car, but this weekend I drove my mother in law to a show and she wanted the windows down a bit. Now- after two years I once again used the remote to shut all the windows on a hot day - and BANG the left rear broke. I should have bought regulators for both sides last time.
Is there some issue with using the remote closing that increases the risk of damage???
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Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 463
Likes: 8
From: Long Island, NY
01 E320
I also bought the ebay part for $35 and replaced the left rear myself about a year ago. Also needed to buy a cheap rivet gun at home depot. So far it works fine.
I'm all about buying OEM parts, except of course when the OEM parts suck and caused the problem in the first place. Happy Labor Day everyone
I'm all about buying OEM parts, except of course when the OEM parts suck and caused the problem in the first place. Happy Labor Day everyone
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 301
Likes: 23
1997 E300D
I replaced one of my rear window regulators on my '97 E 300 D. On looking at the above green slide jaw, I wonder if the part shown might fit, even though it has about an inch less offset than the original. Granted the pull of the cables would be offset slightly, but the part shown, if it works, would work on both right and left sides. I went on the site and looked up the slide jaw for my car, and the picture looks the same as above, with no mention of the side of the car it fits. Just wondering. 
Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 194
Likes: 1
From: Toledo, OH
88 535is, 89 318iT
I've bought both of my rears from rockauto.com for $35 each. They work so perfect and are so cheap that I don't even care if they break again. Look exactly the same as OE. Why would someone even bother with the BS of trying to fix that broken piece on such a cheap part?
Last edited by dsmith; Sep 7, 2010 at 12:18 PM.
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 463
Likes: 8
From: Long Island, NY
01 E320
Yeah really, particularly since it is such a PIA to do
Newbie
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
1985 C280
Is there a DIY guide to replacing these? Some pics?
Wife borrowed my car today and just called saying she heard a snap and the rear window won't roll back up. I'm guessing it's this little gem.
Any info would be great.
Wife borrowed my car today and just called saying she heard a snap and the rear window won't roll back up. I'm guessing it's this little gem.
Any info would be great.
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 9,815
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John Deere
Tools you need - a drill to remove the steel rivets from the existing unit (3 rivets), a Philips screw-driver (preferably magnetic for when you go to put the screws back in where you took them out, some flat pry tool such as a thin drywall tool, a rivet gun from Home Depot + a pack of aluminum rivets.
Goop to reseal the plastic vapor barrier - someone else needs to opine. Silicone caulk?
