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This problem has been there intermittently for over a year. Sometimes never once for 3 weeks. Sometimes every 2 days. The issue - when I flip key to pos 3 and release, the cranking will last 6-7 seconds before engine ignites. Already changed fuel pump, fuel filter, crankshaft pos sensor, fuel pump relay, spark plugs, all brand new original Benz parts, but problem remains. Only difference is that the sound of cranking has changed. Before, cranking sounds softer, like some minor parts moving to complete a cycle; after the change, cranking sounds louder, more like the flywheel mechanically rotating. The tachometer needle doesn't move while cranking. It will then bounce up and engine is ignited; or occasionally the needle seems to be a bit stuck in the middle for 1 second, then bouncing up and engine is ignited. Any thoughts to share?
I don't want to keep throwing money on new parts, for no results.
You may want to check the wiring from the ECM to the tachometer.
The ECM needs to see RPM to send signal to fuel pump.
You may also want to check that the tachometer is calibrated to match ECM.
when running...has it stalled at all? how does it run? when wanting to speed up, does it downshift properly? any codes, check engine light? ....try here for thought.... http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210...wer-p0120.html
i know it is long time ago, but the comment caught my eye. the part where it says "..when speeding up, does id downshift properly..?"
can you please give more information on this?
i have same problem with my car (642 engine), when it stays switched off for longer/cold start, it starts up only after longer cranking. And besides i have this problem which i cited above, when wanting to accelerate the revs are too low and it does not kick down unless i kick the pedal few times and harder.
Any comments regarding this issue are highly appreciated.
Own a e350 v6 w212. Done about 172000 kms. Had no issues. But just changed the intake manifold due to breaking of a child part (plastic connecting rod). Since it was opened I also got my injectors cleans. All this done at an authorised dealer. Car always has been to the same dealer for 9 years. After it was fitted, the car wouldn’t fire up on the first two starts. Then she fired.
Now she starts on cold starts but doesn’t fire up instantly if the car is left idle for a couple of hours. Any ideas. Battery is 2 years old but in great shape.
Own a e350 v6 w212. Done about 172000 kms. Had no issues. But just changed the intake manifold due to breaking of a child part (plastic connecting rod). Since it was opened I also got my injectors cleans. All this done at an authorised dealer. Car always has been to the same dealer for 9 years. After it was fitted, the car wouldn’t fire up on the first two starts. Then she fired.
Now she starts on cold starts but doesn’t fire up instantly if the car is left idle for a couple of hours. Any ideas. Battery is 2 years old but in great shape.
I have a same thing on my 97 e320 , frequently car crank longer then usually, i own it for almost 4 years , after buy i replaced fuel pump and filter from Oreilly parts store, and crank position sensor ,still same problem exist , also frequently idle rpms jumps up and down slighly 50-100 up and down the most, other then this car runs prefect ,any thoughts ??
I got the rail pressure checked. The pressure was ok but it was not holding. There was a gradual drop. So then rechecked the injectors and found a continuous drip in 3 injectors. So had the entire fuel system cleant right down to the fuel pump and rail. It’s seems to be ok for now but will see tomorrow. Let’s hope for the best.
Today i was checking everything again , found the small tube - i think its a central lock air pump vacuum was disconnected from the intake manifold , after i reconnect and start the engine it runs waayyyy better , also found that throttle body rubber boot has about 1-2 inch crack and i can hear the air , im gonna order the boot and replace it as soon as i get it , this solve my rpms flactuation and longer crank to start , i hope this helps for some other owners
Good work on trouble shooting your issue.
It wouldnt hurt for you to check ALL your vacuum hoses/lines - 22+ year old w210 - they get brittle and cracks are hard to see/diagnose.
Yess im super happy , at least this problem is solved , im sure i get better engine performance and better fuel milage after i also replace the rubber boot
but still fighting the electrical problem as described in other post , im a mechanic not electrican soo this gives me a huge headache
Yess im super happy , at least this problem is solved , im sure i get better engine performance and better fuel milage after i also replace the rubber boot
but still fighting the electrical problem as described in other post , im a mechanic not electrican soo this gives me a huge headache
I here you Greg, you may have to start using a light tester sooner rather than later to test the wiring and connectors in these older sedans. No way around it unless you have a REALLY GOOD neighbor that works on MBs, has a finesse for electrical circuits and wiring of cars, and loves to get his hands dirty on anything that VAROOOMS!
Hello, I have a 2009 E-350 with around 40k miles on it. For the past few months, I noticed that sometimes it would take between 3-7 seconds to start the engine after turning the key. After much research and reading posts from this site, I had the fuel pump and filter changed. The problem continued and then I had the battery changed. The issue remained. I notice that if i put the key into position 2, where all of the dash lights are on, wait about 5-7 seconds and then start, it starts normal. I also noticed that once I exit the car and re-start within around 15-20 min, it would start normal. But if I start after 30 min or longer, the issue starts again unless I keep in the key in position 2 for about 5-7 seconds.
It appears that by keeping the key in position 2 for this time is the only way I don't see this issue. don't know how this helps but it does.
Any advise on what the exact problem may be would be appreciated.
Hello, I have a 2009 E-350 with around 40k miles on it. For the past few months, I noticed that sometimes it would take between 3-7 seconds to start the engine after turning the key. After much research and reading posts from this site, I had the fuel pump and filter changed. The problem continued and then I had the battery changed. The issue remained. I notice that if i put the key into position 2, where all of the dash lights are on, wait about 5-7 seconds and then start, it starts normal. I also noticed that once I exit the car and re-start within around 15-20 min, it would start normal. But if I start after 30 min or longer, the issue starts again unless I keep in the key in position 2 for about 5-7 seconds.
It appears that by keeping the key in position 2 for this time is the only way I don't see this issue. don't know how this helps but it does.
Any advise on what the exact problem may be would be appreciated.
Welcome Hassan,
You've replaced a few things, it seems.
You haven't mentioned if you have scanned for any codes. yes, no?
If not, scan and post any saved codes.
Have you checked your spark plugs, wires and ignition coils?
(spark plug change for w210s is every 100Kmiles...)
Doesnt sound like a cps issue. you're not stalling while driving, correct?
no stalling while driving, once car has started, driving is okay. spark plus changed few years back, car only has 40k miles but is a 2009, so 11 years old.
no stalling while driving, once car has started, driving is okay. spark plus changed few years back, car only has 40k miles but is a 2009, so 11 years old.
You never answered the FULL question - wires and ignition coils??
I have not looked at those yet. I purchased the car last year and the work history from the dealer mentioned spark plugs. Maybe I missed the coil and wire part. base don my description of the issue, would this be possibility.
I have not looked at those yet. I purchased the car last year and the work history from the dealer mentioned spark plugs. Maybe I missed the coil and wire part. base don my description of the issue, would this be possibility.
Spark plug change would only be these - I doubt they changed the wires and ignition coils.
No saved codes showing as you stated. Fuel pump and filter changed. Runs fine. Specific start up issues only.
I would still check the fuel pressure to make sure it's getting the correct pressure at start-up - ~60psi to start. The fuel pump starts for few seconds by turning key to position 2. Don't need to crank the engine to test it. Hook up a pressure gauge on the scharader valve on the fuel rail.
CPS - I've heard of weird issues involving these. It's a relatively cheap part for a DIY to replace - access is a tad difficult.
A simple test for the CPS - CPS typically starts failing when hot. Monitor tachometer while cranking. If the needle is moving, the CPS is likely ok.
btw, just so you know, you're posting in the w210 forum. You own a w211 - my bad - (not paying attention today, being a Friday....)
Spark plug change would only be these - I doubt they changed the wires and ignition coils.
No saved codes showing as you stated. Fuel pump and filter changed. Runs fine. Specific start up issues only.
I would still check the fuel pressure to make sure it's getting the correct pressure at start-up - ~60psi to start. The fuel pump starts for few seconds by turning key to position 2. Don't need to crank the engine to test it. Hook up a pressure gauge on the scharader valve on the fuel rail.
CPS - I've heard of weird issues involving these. It's a relatively cheap part for a DIY to replace - access is a tad difficult.
A simple test for the CPS - CPS typically starts failing when hot. Monitor tachometer while cranking. If the needle is moving, the CPS is likely ok.
btw, just so you know, you're posting in the w210 forum. You own a w211 - my bad - (not paying attention today, being a Friday....)
I had a somewhat similar issue, I had my rail pressure checked and found ok. But what had happened was whilst changing my intake manifold the technician had damaged 3 of my injectors. They were found leaking. After changing them the car worked just great.
Hope this helps.
For (Hassan's) w211s, the FPR is a part of the fuel rail. The whole rail has to be replaced according to MBs parts list.
Always, check and test the simple things first unless you have deep pockets and wish to throw $$$ away.
For (Hassan's) w211s, the FPR is a part of the fuel rail. The whole rail has to be replaced according to MBs parts list.
Always, check and test the simple things first unless you have deep pockets and wish to throw $$$ away.
My problem is different from yours. Mine starts every time, albeit randomly the cranking is longer than usual running upto 7-8 seconds. Yours sounds like the camshaft position sensor or the 4-year old battery.
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