Xenon bulbs (hyper whites) for the "city lights"? Where can i find them?
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Originally posted by E55 KEV
I hope that 8 watt bulb does not blow the in-fuse for the 6 watt H6W OEM bulb.
I hope that 8 watt bulb does not blow the in-fuse for the 6 watt H6W OEM bulb.
I've had the bulbs in my car for 2 years... no problem.
Also, excessive increase in current draw (double or triple the rating, or a current spike) is what blows fuses.
Theoretically, 6 watts only draws 0.5 amps at 12 volts, while the 8 watts only draws 0.66 amps - 0.16 amps difference if any, which is almost negligible.
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From: Sacramento, CA
W204 C300 2010
Hello randell-sd, I am glad to hear that the 8watt bulb did not effect your city lights and wiring. As you specify, the slight increase in current probably has no effect.
I experimented with the higher, 20watt, bulbs because of the increased brightness of the marine bulb.
How does the 8 watt Polarg bulb look? Is it less, yellow looking than stock? Others who have tried the Philips "white" bulbs have been disappointed.
Can you please comment?
Thanks.
I experimented with the higher, 20watt, bulbs because of the increased brightness of the marine bulb.
How does the 8 watt Polarg bulb look? Is it less, yellow looking than stock? Others who have tried the Philips "white" bulbs have been disappointed.
Can you please comment?
Thanks.
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Originally posted by rob_fed
Hello randell-sd, I am glad to hear that the 8watt bulb did not effect your city lights and wiring. As you specify, the slight increase in current probably has no effect.
I experimented with the higher, 20watt, bulbs because of the increased brightness of the marine bulb.
How does the 8 watt Polarg bulb look? Is it less, yellow looking than stock? Others who have tried the Philips "white" bulbs have been disappointed.
Can you please comment?
Thanks.
Hello randell-sd, I am glad to hear that the 8watt bulb did not effect your city lights and wiring. As you specify, the slight increase in current probably has no effect.
I experimented with the higher, 20watt, bulbs because of the increased brightness of the marine bulb.
How does the 8 watt Polarg bulb look? Is it less, yellow looking than stock? Others who have tried the Philips "white" bulbs have been disappointed.
Can you please comment?
Thanks.
The difference in wattage (2W) compensates for the loss of intensity, thus offering the same effective light output.
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2024 GLE63s / 2016 GLE63s (traded) / 2016 E63s / 2002 E55
Originally posted by randall-sd
First, I believe that there is no special in-line fuse for the city lights as you suggested.
First, I believe that there is no special in-line fuse for the city lights as you suggested.
You can also read my previous post on this problem:
https://mbworld.org/forums/showthrea...ht=inline+fuse
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E55 KEV:
I was not saying that you were wrong (nor was I in attack), all I was saying is that it was my belief that there is no what you referred to as "in-line fuse" on the city lights circuit.
Here's what you posted in your referenced post:
Getting technical, fuses are NOT designed to melt. Secondly, it doesn't make sense that a 6-watt load circuit will have its separate protection circuit (especially in a place where its inaccessible). Third, I think what you saw melted is the ground splice inside the light housing (how did you get into that in the first place without destroying the light housing?)
Lastly, two things I believed happened... one, excessive heat from the higher wattage bulb melted the plastic bulb holder socket thus shorting the supply terminals, and second, the electrical short caused a large current draw on the small #22AWG supply wire.
Since the car uses a slow-blow 10-amp fuse, the short looked for an "electrical weak spot" which in this case is the ground splice inside the assembly. And that's what you saw melted.
Just my 0.2.
I was not saying that you were wrong (nor was I in attack), all I was saying is that it was my belief that there is no what you referred to as "in-line fuse" on the city lights circuit.
Here's what you posted in your referenced post:
We pulled all the wires out of the junk units and low and behold the H6W bulb has an INLINE FUSE on the wire deep inside the headlamp unit. The inline fuse in the headlamp on the car was melted. We cut off the junk inline fuse and sliced it together and then it worked.
Lastly, two things I believed happened... one, excessive heat from the higher wattage bulb melted the plastic bulb holder socket thus shorting the supply terminals, and second, the electrical short caused a large current draw on the small #22AWG supply wire.
Since the car uses a slow-blow 10-amp fuse, the short looked for an "electrical weak spot" which in this case is the ground splice inside the assembly. And that's what you saw melted.
Just my 0.2.
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DO I GET ANY MONEY FOR THIS DISCOVERY?
randall-sd, regardless of what they call it "inline fuse", resistor, capacitor, transistor, fusible link, etc. there is something on the City Light deep inside the headlamp for overload protection on the H6W bulb.
If you put in a higher wattage bulb and burn this baby out you would be pulling out your hair trying to find the culprit. Short out this tiny 'whatchamacallit' and you will be looking all over the electrical system for the fuse or short, etc.
If you went to the dealer with a shorted out city light H6W bulb they would replace the entire headlamp at $1k if Xenon. You would not be able to buy this "thingy" in the Mercedes Parts section to repair the shorted out H6W bulb.
Aren't you glad I discovered it?
If you put in a higher wattage bulb and burn this baby out you would be pulling out your hair trying to find the culprit. Short out this tiny 'whatchamacallit' and you will be looking all over the electrical system for the fuse or short, etc.
If you went to the dealer with a shorted out city light H6W bulb they would replace the entire headlamp at $1k if Xenon. You would not be able to buy this "thingy" in the Mercedes Parts section to repair the shorted out H6W bulb.
Aren't you glad I discovered it?
Last edited by E55 KEV; May 7, 2003 at 09:01 AM.
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Joined: Feb 2002
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From: Richmond VA
2002 E320 Special Edition
Resistor Color Code
Looks like a RN55D resistor. See color code at....................
http://www.elexp.com/t_resist.htm
http://www.elexp.com/t_resist.htm
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From: Florida
2007 E350/2001 SLK320
Ok, Fellows, I'm confused. I want to change the headlamps on my 2001 E320 from halogen to Xenon, now don't laugh, but here is where I'm confused. Do I exchange the entire headlamp, or do you merely change the bulbs. Also, will the Mercy dealership do this for me? Ok, now you can laugh
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From: Sacramento, CA
W204 C300 2010
Wow! A resistor!!! That explains the inline "fuse" issue, but it also explains why the 20watt marine halogen did not look brighter inside of the city light housing. It is not a matter of optics! In my original post, I did remove the socket from the car (I cut it off), I tested the 20watt bulb on my bench and no smoke or melting. When I resoldered socket and powered up the 20watter, the resistor was limiting the current to the bulb, but the bulb resistance was too low and I could smell the resistor getting hot. This is an excellent find!
The resistor is probably limiting the current to a solid state device driver, like a transistor. I would not bypass the resistor to power a higher wattage bulb. But, you can now use city light wires to power up a seperate relay, then use another type of bulb. There maybe a heat limitation in the city light housing though. MBZ must have assumed the worst case here, but at least it gives me something to think about.
Rob Lee
The resistor is probably limiting the current to a solid state device driver, like a transistor. I would not bypass the resistor to power a higher wattage bulb. But, you can now use city light wires to power up a seperate relay, then use another type of bulb. There maybe a heat limitation in the city light housing though. MBZ must have assumed the worst case here, but at least it gives me something to think about.
Rob Lee
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Originally posted by Neicey59
Do I exchange the entire headlamp, or do you merely change the bulbs. Also, will the Mercy dealership do this for me? Ok, now you can laugh
Do I exchange the entire headlamp, or do you merely change the bulbs. Also, will the Mercy dealership do this for me? Ok, now you can laugh
There are a couple of ways to upgrade/convert to HID.
1. You can buy the complete headlamp housings. This is probably the best option and the most expensive. The Mercedes headlamps are made by Hella and you can buy them at a Mercedes Dealer. Mercedes dealers usually don't do this type of upgrade because DOT regulation actually prohibit Headlamp conversion. However, some will. Average cost $2000.00 for parts
2. You can buy a HID bulb conversion kit for your halogen H7 bulbs but normally the results are mixed because the relectors and lenses on your car are different from the ones on the Hella units. Average cost $600.
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From: Riverside, CA
98 E320
Alright,
I had the parking light go out, which I believe is the H6 bulb E55 is referring to. Unfortunately I did not see this post before I started wrenching (today), but after being puzzled as to why the socket was not receiving power, we eventually found the resistor E55 is speaking about. It was bad, so I cut it out and re-wired with straight wire.
Why is that resistor there in the first place? Any guesses? I guess time will tell, I’ve never seen anything like that. The resistor is in the wiring harness, exposed but very easy to overlook which is why it drove me crazy looking for the damn thing.
Thanks in advance or is this a dead issue?
C2
I had the parking light go out, which I believe is the H6 bulb E55 is referring to. Unfortunately I did not see this post before I started wrenching (today), but after being puzzled as to why the socket was not receiving power, we eventually found the resistor E55 is speaking about. It was bad, so I cut it out and re-wired with straight wire.
Why is that resistor there in the first place? Any guesses? I guess time will tell, I’ve never seen anything like that. The resistor is in the wiring harness, exposed but very easy to overlook which is why it drove me crazy looking for the damn thing.
Thanks in advance or is this a dead issue?
C2
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C-2, glad I was able to help out. Just think - most people that have a problem with that H6W bulb end up replacing the entire headlamp because of that tiny resistor.
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From: Sacramento, CA
W204 C300 2010
C-2 :
When you wired the H6 bulb straight thru, is that bulb brighter than the other one? I assume that probably not because the value of the resistor is very small, but I am still curious.
Per the very nice pictures, I cannot tell all of the colors of the resistor, but I think it is very low, possibly 10 ohms or much less and based upon it's small size, only a 1/4watt in value.
The resistance of the H6 bulb is very small, very close to "zero" ohms, as in any light bulb with a filament.
The resistor in series is for current limitation, probaby to contol the heat of the H6 within the city/hi beam assembly. But the small size is very puzzling. It would seem that the 1/4w rating would eventually fail with normal use, as in C-2's situation.
I have attach a simple diagram for additional comment.
Thanks,
rob lee
When you wired the H6 bulb straight thru, is that bulb brighter than the other one? I assume that probably not because the value of the resistor is very small, but I am still curious.
Per the very nice pictures, I cannot tell all of the colors of the resistor, but I think it is very low, possibly 10 ohms or much less and based upon it's small size, only a 1/4watt in value.
The resistance of the H6 bulb is very small, very close to "zero" ohms, as in any light bulb with a filament.
The resistor in series is for current limitation, probaby to contol the heat of the H6 within the city/hi beam assembly. But the small size is very puzzling. It would seem that the 1/4w rating would eventually fail with normal use, as in C-2's situation.
I have attach a simple diagram for additional comment.
Thanks,
rob lee
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From: Florida
2007 E350/2001 SLK320
I think I will just contact Steve K, (EuroPimp, and Road Warrior). When comes back to Florida I will have something done with those stock lights that I absolutely hate. I would really like clear xenons which HIGH QUALITY ones don't seem to exist right now.
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E300
I have a pair of amber LED's which I want to install and took out becuase I was annoyed with the Light Defective display everytime. I even added an additional resistor once to try to compensate but no avail. Anyone determine the right resister to add so that we can finally do something with these ugly H6 bulbs.
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From: Sacramento, CA
W204 C300 2010
Originally Posted by michakaveli
I have a pair of amber LED's which I want to install and took out becuase I was annoyed with the Light Defective display everytime. I even added an additional resistor once to try to compensate but no avail. Anyone determine the right resister to add so that we can finally do something with these ugly H6 bulbs.
What value resistor did you add? Also, did you add the resistor in parallel with the LED? From a previous post, I know that a 1.2K ohm resistor was enough to fool the headlight circuit when a HID ballast is used.
-rob
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From: Sacramento, CA
W204 C300 2010
Originally Posted by rob_fed
Hi,
What value resistor did you add? Also, did you add the resistor in parallel with the LED? From a previous post, I know that a 1.2K ohm resistor was enough to fool the headlight circuit when a HID ballast is used.
-rob
What value resistor did you add? Also, did you add the resistor in parallel with the LED? From a previous post, I know that a 1.2K ohm resistor was enough to fool the headlight circuit when a HID ballast is used.
-rob
If you are using a raw LED without a dropping resistor, then you need a series resistor on the positive side or anode of the LED. Then, you can put the 1.2K ohm resistor in parallel with the series resistor and LED.
