Just installed new head unit popping noise when changing inputs.
Sorry I could not have been of more help. Keep posting as you get the PAC unit.
Sorry I could not have been of more help. Keep posting as you get the PAC unit.
Last edited by RichM; Apr 11, 2013 at 05:54 PM.
With nothing attached to AUX or no CD in the changer, if you turn it up to full vol how loud is the noise. Is it like a white noise or a hum or a whine like with the engine running prior to fixing the ground?
Then again, you may be looking for gremlins that are not there, and you are being hyper critical.
Last edited by RichM; Apr 11, 2013 at 07:14 PM.
With nothing attached to AUX or no CD in the changer, if you turn it up to full vol how loud is the noise. Is it like a white noise or a hum or a whine like with the engine running prior to fixing the ground?
Then again, you may be looking for gremlins that are not there, and you are being hyper critical.
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Since the radios internal amp wattage is rated at 4ohm, you will experience heat buildup in the head unit as the impedance is cut in half. This will shorten the life of the head unit, or possibly cause it to fail outright due to overheating. You also have to remember, these speakers were designed to work with this amp. You may not like the sound quality without it. At higher volume levels, you will most likely get distortion. The sound will not be as clean.
At this point, I would expect the white noise you hear with the engine off will be there regardless. But then again, you are not happy with the way it is, so other than a few bucks and a butchered wiring harness, what do you have to loose.
Last edited by RichM; Apr 12, 2013 at 10:43 PM.
Since the radios internal amp wattage is rated at 4ohm, you will experience heat buildup in the head unit as the impedance is cut in half. This will shorten the life of the head unit, or possibly cause it to fail outright due to overheating. You also have to remember, these speakers were designed to work with this amp. You may not like the sound quality without it. At higher volume levels, you will most likely get distortion. The sound will not be as clean.
At this point, I would expect the white noise you hear with the engine off will be there regardless. But then again, you are not happy with the way it is, so other than a few bucks and a butchered wiring harness, what do you have to loose.
Typically, the ground from the MBZ harness is sufficient. If you want to run a ground wire to the engine bay, remove the knee bolster and under tray from the passenger side footwell. Peel back the carpet and sound deadening materials. Once you do this you will find where the grounds from the wiring harness go thru the firewall. You may be able to snake a wire thru there. What I did, was to drill a small hole, run a wire thru to the engine bay using a fish wire. Standing in front of the car looking into the engine bay, behind the coolant reservoir, you will see a ground point. There are a bunch of brown wires attached to ground stud. This process however is a last resort measure that I do not recommend. In my case, we had no way to return the head unit as it was a direct from China system with a return policy that only accounted for DOA systems.
One question, where is your installer planning on picking up the leads going to the speakers to bypass the Bose amp?
Last edited by RichM; Apr 13, 2013 at 09:16 AM.
Typically, the ground from the MBZ harness is sufficient. If you want to run a ground wire to the engine bay, remove the knee bolster and under tray from the passenger side footwell. Peel back the carpet and sound deadening materials. Once you do this you will find where the grounds from the wiring harness go thru the firewall. You may be able to snake a wire thru there. What I did, was to drill a small hole, run a wire thru to the engine bay using a fish wire. Standing in front of the car looking into the engine bay, behind the coolant reservoir, you will see a ground point. There are a bunch of brown wires attached to ground stud. This process however is a last resort measure that I do not recommend. In my case, we had no way to return the head unit as it was a direct from China system with a return policy that only accounted for DOA systems.
One question, where is your installer planning on picking up the leads going to the speakers to bypass the Bose amp?
The installer didn't specify how he would be bypassing the amp but does bypassing the amp mean I won't be able to go back to the stock radio if I wanted to?
About direct wiring to the speakers. To bypass the Bose amp, the harness has to be hacked. This means cutting the harness connector off and direct wiring the speaker outputs to the existing speaker leads. If the installer left enough wire attached to the connector, you can try to patch the harness back together. Most cases this is a done deal. Once it is done, it is done. You can't go back. If at some point you plan on replacing the amp anyway, this may not be such a big deal.
Not sure where you are located, but if you have a high end (or higher end than BB) shop it may be worth stopping in to talk to them. The higher end shops can give you better info than BB.
He also related a bunch of other things, but I will post them later.
Last edited by RichM; Apr 14, 2013 at 04:32 AM.
He also related a bunch of other things, but I will post them later.
Volume Offset: The level of each source may be independently adjusted to prevent radical leaps in output volume when switching from one source to another. The available settings range from -8 to 0 (-8 to +8 for Aux source).
It is a shame you have such crappy choices for local info. I want to be clear on this. If you choose to bypass the Bose amp, the installer has to hack the wiring harness. Once this is done, there is no going back. There is not an adapter that I am aware of that will match up to the Bose connector. The installer has to run some type of wire harness from the head unit to the trunk where he will disconnect the speaker harness from the amp. This is where he will hack. I don't know of a way to bypass the amp from the dash.
Volume Offset: The level of each source may be independently adjusted to prevent radical leaps in output volume when switching from one source to another. The available settings range from -8 to 0 (-8 to +8 for Aux source).
It is a shame you have such crappy choices for local info. I want to be clear on this. If you choose to bypass the Bose amp, the installer has to hack the wiring harness. Once this is done, there is no going back. There is not an adapter that I am aware of that will match up to the Bose connector. The installer has to run some type of wire harness from the head unit to the trunk where he will disconnect the speaker harness from the amp. This is where he will hack. I don't know of a way to bypass the amp from the dash.
Also my unit makes popping noises within an input like when switching tracks on a cd so I am not sure if switching the volume offset will work.
Last edited by Dnasty; Apr 14, 2013 at 02:49 PM.


