E-Class (W210) 1995-2002: E 200, E 220D, E 240, E 290TD, E 300TD, E 200, E 240, E 280, E 320, E 420, E 430 (Wagon, Touring, 4Matic)

Just installed new head unit popping noise when changing inputs.

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Old Apr 14, 2013 | 07:24 PM
  #76  
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From: DFW
2 2001 E320s, 2005 E320 4Matic
Originally Posted by Dnasty
He showed me the wiring harness he was gonna use it was like the one i have except using speaker wires instead of rcas. I wasn't able to get all the details of the installation from him because he was working on another car but on wednesday I guess I'll be able to find out.

Also my unit makes popping noises within an input like when switching tracks on a cd so I am not sure if switching the volume offset will work.
So it was a short harness not long enough to stretch to the trunk? If this is the case, he is not bypassing the Bose amp. He is bypassing the head units pre amp and feeding directly from the internal amp to the Bose amp to the speakers. Will this work? Maybe. Will this get rid of the pops? Don't know. I have seen this done on BMWs using Infinity amps, but not with Bose amps. There are too many incompatibilities to deal with.

When you get these pops, is there momentary power loss associated with it, or a flashing of the display? So if I understand, when changing tracks there is momentary silence. When the music starts it makes a popping noise? How about with an ipod or mp3 player, or the buletooth phone? Is this with the Ground loop isolators connected? Is the pop from all speakers or just the rears?

This type of thing, takes me back to a ground issue. If you have a chance, pull the head unit, run a ground to the seat where it is bolted to the rail. Connect the ground loop isolators ground to this wire. See if this makes a difference.

Last edited by RichM; Apr 14, 2013 at 07:26 PM.
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Old Apr 14, 2013 | 08:03 PM
  #77  
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2010 e550 coupe
Originally Posted by RichM
So it was a short harness not long enough to stretch to the trunk? If this is the case, he is not bypassing the Bose amp. He is bypassing the head units pre amp and feeding directly from the internal amp to the Bose amp to the speakers. Will this work? Maybe. Will this get rid of the pops? Don't know. I have seen this done on BMWs using Infinity amps, but not with Bose amps. There are too many incompatibilities to deal with.

When you get these pops, is there momentary power loss associated with it, or a flashing of the display? So if I understand, when changing tracks there is momentary silence. When the music starts it makes a popping noise? How about with an ipod or mp3 player, or the buletooth phone? Is this with the Ground loop isolators connected? Is the pop from all speakers or just the rears?

This type of thing, takes me back to a ground issue. If you have a chance, pull the head unit, run a ground to the seat where it is bolted to the rail. Connect the ground loop isolators ground to this wire. See if this makes a difference.
The pops only occur without the gli's and they are quick like the sound u can hear through speakers when u unplug a guitar out of an amp or something. I am wondering if my issue could be that I seem to be using both the head units amp and the bose amp is there anyway to turn off the amp on a headunit?
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Old Apr 14, 2013 | 08:52 PM
  #78  
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If you are using the RCAs you are not going thru the head units amp, but the Preamp. This is as it should be.

So refresh my memory. There seem to be so many issues I have lost track. If you don't mind would you list the issues with the GLIs connected. The white noise I think is a non issue as it was pre existing, and is something that should be discounted.

Last edited by RichM; Apr 14, 2013 at 08:57 PM.
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Old Apr 14, 2013 | 10:37 PM
  #79  
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Originally Posted by RichM
If you are using the RCAs you are not going thru the head units amp, but the Preamp. This is as it should be.

So refresh my memory. There seem to be so many issues I have lost track. If you don't mind would you list the issues with the GLIs connected. The white noise I think is a non issue as it was pre existing, and is something that should be discounted.
With the gli's the only issue is the ground noise and the sound isn't as clear. Is there really an advantage to having the higher voltage preamp outs if I am having to use gli's?
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Old Apr 14, 2013 | 11:34 PM
  #80  
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Originally Posted by Dnasty
With the gli's the only issue is the ground noise and the sound isn't as clear. Is there really an advantage to having the higher voltage preamp outs if I am having to use gli's?
Ok, is as I thought. If you would, give this a try. Where the seat attaches to the frame rail, run a line ( this will be a ground as it is metal to metal, and the rail is attached to the chassis) and attach the 4 brown ground wires from the ground loop isolators to it. The OEM setup uses a common ground, and this will give you an isolated ground point. Keep the head unit grounded as it is to the harness. Do not use the ground you have running into the dash. I have a feeling this will finally get rid of the noise. As for the muddy sound, getting rid of the noise and isolating the ground may help. Don't really know for sure.

There is always an advantage to having the higher output as you don't have to crank the volume all the way to 11 to have a comfortable listening level.
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Old Apr 15, 2013 | 12:32 AM
  #81  
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Originally Posted by RichM
Ok, is as I thought. If you would, give this a try. Where the seat attaches to the frame rail, run a line ( this will be a ground as it is metal to metal, and the rail is attached to the chassis) and attach the 4 brown ground wires from the ground loop isolators to it. The OEM setup uses a common ground, and this will give you an isolated ground point. Keep the head unit grounded as it is to the harness. Do not use the ground you have running into the dash. I have a feeling this will finally get rid of the noise. As for the muddy sound, getting rid of the noise and isolating the ground may help. Don't really know for sure.

There is always an advantage to having the higher output as you don't have to crank the volume all the way to 11 to have a comfortable listening level.
Ok I will try that tomarrow the ground loops should arrive then. I still find that i have to crank the volume high for comfortable listening at 11 it is pretty low 25 is comfortable listening and 35 is max on this system.
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Old Apr 15, 2013 | 08:53 AM
  #82  
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Originally Posted by Dnasty
Ok I will try that tomarrow the ground loops should arrive then. I still find that i have to crank the volume high for comfortable listening at 11 it is pretty low 25 is comfortable listening and 35 is max on this system.
I am obviously much older than you. Back in the day, volume levels only went to ten. The term crank it up to 11 meant past loud.

You will need an external (female) torx socket for the bolt on the seat rail. Don't remember the size. Make sure to get a good tight ground. Only the isolators should be grounded to this point.

Last edited by RichM; Apr 15, 2013 at 10:48 PM.
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Old Apr 15, 2013 | 12:12 PM
  #83  
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Originally Posted by RichM
I am obviously much older than you. Back in the day, volume levels on amps only went to ten. The term crank it up to 11 meant past loud.

You will need an external (female) torx socket for the bolt on the seat rail. Don't remember the size. Make sure to get a good tight ground. Only the isolators should be grounded to this point.
Oh I was referring to the volume on the radio. I still feel I have to crank it fairly high for reasonable listening but mabye that's just standard.
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Old Apr 15, 2013 | 09:30 PM
  #84  
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E320
These took care of my popping sound.

Ground Loop Isolator : Isolators | RadioShack.com

Pioneer DEH-P9400BH w/Stock Bose Amp & Speakers
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Old Apr 15, 2013 | 09:49 PM
  #85  
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99 Mercedes E320 AWD, 01 Infiniti I30
Not sure if this will work? But, a guy on my Maxima forum is selling it cheap....

http://forums.maxima.org/audio-video...interface.html
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Old Oct 31, 2013 | 03:35 AM
  #86  
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95 C36
Came across this thread after searching for this same exact issue as I just installed a Pioneer CD receiver on my cousin's 98 E320 w/Bose.

Popping when changing sources or changing stations on the tuner, sound from the front speakers are just fine while the rear speakers are very faint and sound very muddy.

Should we go with the PAC OEM unit or (2) ground loop isolators? From what I gathered from this thread, both units will solve this popping issue.

Thanks in advance!
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