skj0lsvik

Hi all, looking for some advice... I just installed a new set of lowering springs on my car and the front turned out real good IMO! But the rear-end is only a tad lower than how it originally sat.

Is there some sort of way to adjust the height of them? The spings I installed is rated to lower the car with 4cm(almost 2").

skj0lsvik

Small photo of how it sits at the moment

skj0lsvik

What is the most common way to get the rear-end lower? Is the avantgarde shocks lower, most people use them?

toby1

Dampers don't affect ride height - it's the springs which alter the height. Does it have spring pads at the back? Might be adjustable that way

skj0lsvik

Yeah, I am aware of that. It's just that I'm curious about how these self-leveling dampers work. Do they lift the rear-end to a certain level no matter what?

I'm a bit unsure of what pads I've got back there, didn't look(was a bit dark atm)... What if I take the angle-grinder and cut off a chunk, would probably be lower..?

B189s

You should just swap your pads to the thinnest pads on the rears. If using pad 1 is still not low enough fir your taste, then i've heard people actually use Honda pads. I've seen, felt and compared our pads with Honda pads and I really think it should fit right in.

Last option, cut your springs? I mean since you already bought these springs. I'm not an expert on cutting springs, but I think 1/2 or 3/4 coil should do it..

GL

B189s

I just noticed, the offset of your wheels are too low, maybe spacers can be used front and back and hopefully, the aggressive look on the back would make the car seem lower.

skj0lsvik

Yep, I'll guess I'll try lower pads. Hopefully that'll do the trick!
The offset are a little too low, I did order some spacers last week so I hope they arrive soon. Thanks for the input :-)

skj0lsvik

I just got a call from a mate who told me that the self-leveling dampers are adjustable. So, I will try to do the procedure in this weekend. Hopefully it'll work!!

B189s

I meant the offset of you wheels were too high, but you got idea .

skj0lsvik

Haha, sorry about that. I ment high, spacers are ordered to make the offset lower

SpiralArchitect

The self-levelling system has an electronic sender connected by a rod to each wheel. I suppose that if you alter the length of the rods on both wheels you can fool the ECU into thinking the car is higher.

Suggestion? Have the car on a lift with the wheels supported and move the height sender arm. It's about the same procedure done on older Citroens with active suspension.

skj0lsvik

That is exactly what I plan to do, mate! Most probably this weekend. But I reeaally got to adjust the camber on my rear-wheels :P

They'll wear out quicker than I would've thought was possible!

SpiralArchitect

Do try to keep the half-shafts as levelled as possible to avoid excessive wear.

While you're at it, you may also want to partially replace the ZHM fluid. The system takes two liters, you just have to slowly loosen the fittings on the spheres and empty the tank to get most of it out.

Avoid entry of air.

skj0lsvik

Might do that, would it increase the life-span of the dampers you think?

I'm not so sure of how level the half-shafts will be though, I guess the car is a tiny bit higher than an original avantgarde at the rear atm. I will try to lower it approx 2-3cm more (1 1/2 inch).

SpiralArchitect

Funny you should ask about the life of those dampers. They aren't dampers at all.

Before I begin, we once had a problem with the rear suspension. It was super hard (but level) on the right side and made a loud thump when the wheel hit bumps. We took the car to the local dealer and they asked 1000€ for new dampers.

I had knowledge of Citroen-type active suspensions. The setup on the W210s is about the same: a common pump provides power for suspension and steering and a system of valves and senders regulates the flow to the spheres.

Conclusion is that these are not dampers, they are in fact hydraulic rams and all the damping is done by the gas in the spheres (Citroen sells spheres with different pressures and with different flow restrictions to customize the ride; Mercedes system is not that flexible but works on the same principles).

I then visited a specialized Mercedes parts shop and they confirmed my diagnosis that the sphere on the right side had lost gas and didn't provide damping because it was full of fluid. They told me they sell 10 spheres for each ram and they are only replaced when bent. When the seals are leaking, they are taken apart and seals are replaced.

In the end I spent 200€ on a pair of Febi spheres, 20€ on Febi ZHM hydraulic fluid and 40€ on the front subframe bushings.

The rams have gone through 300 000 km and show no signs of deterioration. Rear suspension performance with new spheres and bushings is as good as new.

SpiralArchitect

Will the change of fluid improve the life expectancy of the rams?

I'd say the difference will be mostly on the life of spheres. These have a diaphragm inside that separates the nitrogen charge from the fluid. Any hydraulic fluid these days has some corrosion inhibitors in it. These are important.

For example, early active suspension Citroens used a hygroscopic fluid. Moist air was drawn into the fluid tank each time the suspension height changed. They only solved the reliability issues when they changed to LHM fluid which is not hygroscopic.

I suppose ZHM is not hygroscopic but as in any fluid, the additives are depleted over time. Changing the fluid partially is easy and not expensive at all. If you go to the dealer with suspension problems, you can expect to loose that big lump on your pocket.

I'm not happy with their service. They misdiagnosed the problem and wanted charge an insane ammount of money for rams that would not solve the problem.

skj0lsvik

Holy! That really is some useful information, kind'of cool to know that hydraulic rams is used on these cars.

Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge! It is very appreciated. I surely know what to do this weekend :-)

skj0lsvik

Thought I should update the thread.

There is possible to adjust the height of the rear-end. The ONLY tool you'll need is a 10 mm spanner. Beneath the car(obviously..), right in front of the rear axle, you'll find the sway bar. Follow this to the center and you will see a few small bolts and metal mounted on the actual sway bar.

Adjust the lenght of the metal(loosen up the 10mm and slide it together..) and you're done!
Made a huge difference on my car

SpiralArchitect

I'm glad it worked out right for you.

Did you do it over an inspection pit with the engine running and the wheels sitting on the ground or did you adjusted it by eye with the engine off and checked level on both sides in the end?

I know there were some serious accidents when imprudent people tried to tune the mechanical height regulators on early Citroens while lying under the car with the engine running. Usual result was serious injury or death when a large adjustment caused the suspension to drop to the lowest level.

Anyone attempting this: use good old common sense!

skj0lsvik

I had the car on a carlift(illustration-picture below) with the engine off. I adjusted a couple of times before I were satisfied(Car down, up again to adjust further, down, up etc...