Newbie here. Previous 124 wagon owner. Tried to do research.


First of all, owner and carfax agree car has only 75,000 miles. Private sale but owner is basically asking Edmunds top price ($1400 discrepancy between Edmunds and KBB on this car's price BTW).
Owner claims to have done own routine maintenance (being a mechanic) which I can neither confirm nor deny (either the maintenance or the being a mechanic!). Just no record of in Carfax.
Looks like recall stuff all done before 4 years.
Major stuff :
1/2011 : ball joints and lower ball joints
4/2013 : mass air flow, drive belt tensioner, valve cover gaskets
8/2013 : window regulator(s) replaced - don't know how many


So not new CATS, crankshaft position sensor, O2 sensor


Maintenance :
5/2009 - brake master cylinder and front pads. No word on rotors or rear pads. That's it.


tires said to be 2-3 years old.


recommended maintenance (whatever that is) 72,247 miles 8/2014.


It's more than an hour drive away. Thoughts on questions I should ask or advice on purchasing most welcome.

 

It was probably the rear window regulators, most go between 80-110K miles. Some things to look at with the 01-02 w210 wagons: Check the hydraulic fluid level, the cleanliness of the fluid and the filter in the reservoir-a dirty filter/fluid may be an indication of poor maintenance. When you test drive pay attention for a mild 'bounce', the rear accumulators are usually the culprit. Check the motor mounts, you'll need a helper to do it: put the car in gear and keep pressure on the brake while you rev the engine a few times. Have your helper watch the engine(from the side, not the front!) while you rev it-the engine should stay put, if it lifts the mounts may be bad. Remove the engine cover and valve covers from the engine (very easy & quick to do), check just below the valve banks on both sides for oil seepage indicating gaskets are leaking. While the covers are off check all of the rubber hoses for the EGR/Emissions systems for cracks/leaks, listen carefully for any whistling indicating a vacuum leak. Check the oil for cleanliness and ask the seller about oil consumption, if you are told it doesn't use ANY oil you are probably being misled, the wagons all consume oil, some more than others. In the cabin check the climate system for proper function of vents, go through ALL of the modes for driver and passenger controls checking for airflow to the right place(s) for each mode. Check the display for the climate controls for fading/missing digits on the temperature displays, check for missing/fading display in the driver dash/display-the clocks usually go. Check the plastic trim on top of the rear seat, it cracks and pieces break which are irreplaceable.

My wife loves her wagon, the 4matic is tremendous in bad weather and I'm a happy camper because (1) She's happy and doesn't mess with my S55 (2) It's been rock solid reliable and (3) The price to value ratio is huge-inexpensive to buy, economical to operate, good looking, reliable, great ride, Mercedes comfort, and in my opinion a well kept secret of a gem.

 

What is the asking price? The mileage is good, but that alone would not sell it to me. There are many examples available at low prices if you look around.

 

Thanks for all the responses, I am very grateful for them all.
Plutoe - tried 2004 ford (along with many other vehicles). Both dog and I are big, fat, and arthritic. Ford eliminated because it was too small for me! Most other smaller vehicles rejected by dog. Having had W124s I wish just a pizza delivery job would pay for repairs....
Steinec - thank you very much that is the type of detailed info I was looking for. My contact at the local Merc dealer checked records at the dealership they used and found owners had chosen to NOT to do some instrument panel repair. 1 rear window regulator. I guess CATS are easy to hear?


They are asking 6,000. (Edmunds 4,700 KBB 6,100). Promised new brakes / rotors as well if I pay full price. I want to get a PPI from my dealer. I wasn't planning on spending this much so the value thing matters. Just wasn't sure if it was worth getting one from a "reputable" dealer (if such a thing exists <g>) with 150,000 miles for $5,000 (trade-in at a gaaaaccckkk BMW dealer!). comparison private owner vehicle asking 4,000 with 125k registration expired 3/2014.
We did love our W124s dearly which after looking around decided Mercedes wagons really fit our size, number of passengers, and efficiency/performance (OK not so much efficiency but compared to Suburban thingies well much better).</g>

 

These are good reliable cars and parts are available and not expensive. I just bought a rear window regulator for under 20 bucks. Alternators are in stock at advance auto for 130. You want to check out that all the electronics work ok, no leaks, and it should drive quietly and like new. I have a 2001 with 147000 and still derives like new. If the cats aren't rattling and you have no exhaust leaks, they'll probably last longer.

If it needs rear brakes, it's a basic brake job that any shop can do (or yourself). I'd recommend akebono pads and new rotors though.

Bring cash with you and negotiate a good price.

 

"My contact at the local Merc dealer checked records at the dealership they used and found owners had chosen to NOT to do some instrument panel repair. 1 rear window regulator. I guess CATS are easy to hear?"

Personally I would not waste money on a PPI from a dealer. I've had several good experiences with 3rd party inspection firms found on-line, they will go do an inspection and provide a very detailed report.

The Wife gave her blessing to skip replacing the displays for the instrument panel and climate controls just to see the time and temperature clearly-she actually thought it was stupid of me to consider it (spending $1000 just for the parts). Miracles never cease !

'Hearing' CATS is a bit subjective in concluding they are bad-scanning/charting the 02 data at startup and normal operating temp. is not. Our Beemer has a rattle on one side when you first start it, like some nuts & bolts being shaken in a glass jar, but it functions perfectly and the noise is always gone in a minute. The OBD2 data showed that it is operating perfectly.

 

Smart choice. Instrument panel repair and window regulator would probably be $1000 at dealer. You can buy a regulator for $20 and video how to install is on YouTube. Instrument panel repair is documented on this board and usually free

 

Good stuff. Looking into 3rd party PPI never knew that they existed much less that I would have a choice! Will check into instrument panel stuff like advice on keeping minimum functional if problem is in fact more information instruments. And never thought about doing my own regulators (though I am too chicken and clumsy to deal with safety things like brakes!).

 

OK looked at it myself today. Did most everything suggested :
- says rear suspension stuff was fixed within past 2 years (so I did not check hydraulic fluid) I believe including attenuator
- says "transmission was rebuilt" within past 3 years
- he says oil changed every 5,000 miles with mobil-1. Hasn't been driven much this year so fluid was OK but I will probably change it anyway.
- too incompetent to take off valve-covers
- forgot to check passenger seat and rear air-flow
- turned headlights on, pulled twice on knob. on second pull, bulb light came on. Of course could not repeat.


I did not take her on the highway because there are no highways with 5 miles. A quick test drive the engine is strong, transmission shifted fine under different accelerations, interior, well, coming from W124's, IMHO interior materials inferior (didn't know it was leather felt like the vinyl in my second W124) but in good shape.


- controls buttons on the steering wheel looked like the car had been used a lot. didn't really match anything else in the car
- cloudy headlights (duh)
- sat outside, I peeked underneath but really wasted time need to get on lift of someone who knows what they are doing under there.
- has the cargo cover/dog netting, which this is a dog car, so I love it


Oh yeah I am an idiot should have taken a picture. There was a ticking (clockwork) from some small connector thing right front. I'll have to browse forum looking to ID it. Jiggling it caused it to stop, though it would restart inevitably. Couple small dings with surface rust.


Overall, I wouldn't quite rate it top 3%, but not damn far off either. I offered $5500 if he replaced rotors / pads (all 4), but he wanted the full $6k if he did the work.
Going to get some estimates based on pads/rotors recommended in the forum to have labor done at an independent.


Thanks again for all of your help! I feel much better about purchase with all the input.

 

Connector thing on the drivers side under the hood? that's a purge valve and the ticking is normal. Part of the emissions system

 

First thanks to all the help from the group, from those who replied to those who conveniently posted about their vehicles in the past! . I went ahead and purchased it. PPI done at shop local to car, looked good underneath. 1 catalytic converter was "aftermarket" (much smaller than the original). The rest of the underneath looked pretty good. The car did feel pretty solid for a life lived on what passes for roads here in the Philadelphia area. Pretty much rattle and squeak free. Plus the wife liked it!


First impression was that engine just doesn't sing like the old straight six, but certainly has better low-end torque and transmission is worlds better than the old 4 speed. I will post pics in that thread.


First step : cloudy headlights. Second step : CD changer/aux input for stereo. Third step : decide on whether to get auxillary wheels for summer tires or winter tires. These wheels are in very good shape so cost will probably decide. Let the adventure begin!