cinedp

Hello folks,

Since I recently purchased a 99 E300TD with 107K miles and have been running it though some routine maintenance:

• Voltage Regulator
• Diesel Relay
• Shocks and Springs (Eibach and Bilstein Sports) had to change the Spring pads
• Serp Belt
• Fuel Filter - Going to do GT Screen in a month
• Planned: Transmission Module Replacement

And recently the Glow plug light stayed on and forced me to check the resistance and I found that GP #3, 4 and 6 are failing - now my MPG makes sense - and I have read extensively how difficult replacing them is likely to be - if i do them myself. SOOOO, I wanted to know if anyone could refer a shop in Los Angeles that has the correct Klann Tap tool kit to perform the retapping of the pre chamber if they break a GP off in the process of removing it. Any suggestions are appreciated. Or should I simply take the head off and take to a good machine shop?

I may choose to undertake replacing them and have know that i should:

• A. Be careful and Pre lub with PB or WD40 in advance while the engine is warm.
• B. Heat up the surrouding Metal - NOT THE GP itself - with a Propane torch and try to gently ease it out
• C. Try to remove using a torgue wrench set to 42nms to limit the likelyhood of snapping the GP off in the chamber
• D. Get me a Klann Tap tool - or make one myself - because I am bound to snap at least one of them off - I plan on replacing them all while I am there.
• E. Ream out the prechamber with the correct reamer for the OM606 - ANY ONE KNOW WHERE I CAN GET ONE?

And finally, since the reason that the GP's get stuck is likely the carbon build up, has anyone tried placing the business end of a oscillating tool - without the cutting blade of course! - onto the end of a GP and gently vibrating it a little? Which, I hypothesize, should loosen the GP from the Carbon a bit. Just a thought any comments on it though?
C-

Plutoe

It is extremely refreshing to find someone who has spent the time to research and understand his car before posting a whining sobbing post--- I applaud you!!

As you no doubt found out Klan produces all sorts of glow plug extraction kits, they ain't cheap, but they are the premier glow plug extraction kit provider.

Klan is extremal customer service oriented---e-mail them they will provide you with a local dist and then call them for a local shop who has a kit.

I like that oscillating tool idea!!

I like your idea to soak the glow plug with a PB type of thread soaking product then let sit over night and torch the surrounding area.

However I do not like your torque setting---way to high

EdzBenz

I will also applaud you on your research. I've done the glow plugs on my vehicle twice. First time all 6 came out no problem. Second time two snapped off, but I was removing the head anyway to do the head gasket. Here's a couple of tips:

-Warm block definitely helps with extraction
-PB Blaster or some other loosening agent prior to any movement of the glow plugs. If you can, soak it overnight in the stuff.
-Tighten the glowplug slightly before trying to back it out. And I mean slightly. A quarter of a turn or less.
-Make sure you have an extension for your socket wrench so that you don't cut your knuckles up and have control.
-Go very slow with your counterclockwise turns.
-Coat the shaft of the new glow plugs in anti-seize before installation. Make sure you don't get anti-seize on the head of the glow plug.
-I purchased a "homemade" glow plug reamer from user diesel911 on the peachparts.com website. I don't know if he still makes them or not. $42 shipped.
-Be prepared to clean the heck out of your intake manifold and EGR valve (mine is deleted) while you have everything off
-Check your DV seals while you have the manifold off. If they are wet with diesel you might as well replace those while everything is apart. And your plastic fuel lines for that matter.
-Check the SOV as well.
-Look inside of the injector wells for any oil. Each well has a small rubber seal that can fail. You won't notice it until you have the plastic cover off.
-Just go slow and do your research. You can do it yourself.

Some of the additional items may be a little overboard, but I'm big on preventative maintenance. I'm at 217k and don't burn oil or have any fluid leaks. My two cents.

cinedp

-Check your DV seals while you have the manifold off. If they are wet with diesel you might as well replace those while everything is apart. And your plastic fuel lines for that matter.
-Check the SOV as well.



Thank you for the aid, but please forgive my novice knowledge. What is DV and SOV? I will definitely look at doing both of these since I am already knee deep.

RichM

DV = Delivery valve seals
SOV = Shutoff valve