E320 4matic saved from the scrapyard
11-09-2015, 11:18 PM
#51
Loving this thread so far.
But I have replaced the AC compressor on my E300TD, and it was certainly difficult...but I did it from the botton, as WIS indicated. The space was very tight, to remove all the hoses and stuff, but after that I did not have to remove anything other than the windshield washer res out of the way. Took me maybe 3 hours.
You took the really long way around it, man. Props to you, but that's too much.
But I have replaced the AC compressor on my E300TD, and it was certainly difficult...but I did it from the botton, as WIS indicated. The space was very tight, to remove all the hoses and stuff, but after that I did not have to remove anything other than the windshield washer res out of the way. Took me maybe 3 hours.
You took the really long way around it, man. Props to you, but that's too much.
11-16-2015, 04:44 PM
#52
Super Moderator
This is one of my favorite threads to check on as I don't make it on here as much as I use to but have now made a habit to come see how your care is progressing.
02-14-2016, 05:32 PM
#53
Super Member
Thread Starter
Final touch on the LED
Thanks for all the feedback …… new AC is running like a dream so no problems there.
Now I decided for the final touch on my LED project – the LED bar I installed under the hood. It is working fine – could not be more happy about it. The only thing I never managed to fix was the switch for it. As I have connected the LED bar to my high beam it is by law that you have to be able to turn the LED bar off with a separate button.
As the original button for the LED bar is not up to Mercedes Benz standard did I get the idea of finding another panel with an extra button I could use. Off to the scrapyard and there it was no problem to find what I was looking for. Another panel just like mine with the feature of parktronic which my car is not equipped with. I installed it all but unfortunately these types of buttons did not work since it’s not a “hold” button. Guess these MB buttons working with the CAN BUS …. – then I had to drive with the LED button hanging out of the hole for the MB button for a while -
So what to do since electronic is not my strongest side?
I did find help at work and with some back and forth we managed to find the solution; having the original MB button activating another relay that pulls and hold; then activating the relay for the LED bar.
My greetings to White Discipline Uffe Vad at the Dan Fox platform
)
Now I decided for the final touch on my LED project – the LED bar I installed under the hood. It is working fine – could not be more happy about it. The only thing I never managed to fix was the switch for it. As I have connected the LED bar to my high beam it is by law that you have to be able to turn the LED bar off with a separate button.
As the original button for the LED bar is not up to Mercedes Benz standard did I get the idea of finding another panel with an extra button I could use. Off to the scrapyard and there it was no problem to find what I was looking for. Another panel just like mine with the feature of parktronic which my car is not equipped with. I installed it all but unfortunately these types of buttons did not work since it’s not a “hold” button. Guess these MB buttons working with the CAN BUS …. – then I had to drive with the LED button hanging out of the hole for the MB button for a while -
So what to do since electronic is not my strongest side?
I did find help at work and with some back and forth we managed to find the solution; having the original MB button activating another relay that pulls and hold; then activating the relay for the LED bar.
My greetings to White Discipline Uffe Vad at the Dan Fox platform
)
03-16-2016, 04:23 PM
#54
Super Member
Thread Starter
Throwing codes
My left front drive shaft went away …. had to turn the car into Mercedes Benz workshop as I was on the road. It cost twice as much as I paid for the car!!!! ha ha ha ….. and when I picked it up the engine was acting funny …. guess a bad thing never comes alone …… this is the codes it throws …. anyone can interpret them? hopefully it’s “just” the coil …. I had that problem with my V12 many times …..
06-04-2016, 10:22 AM
#55
Super Member
Thread Starter
Noise reduction + dimming mirror
My left front drive shaft went away …. had to turn the car into Mercedes Benz workshop as I was on the road. It cost twice as much as I paid for the car!!!! ha ha ha ….. and when I picked it up the engine was acting funny …. guess a bad thing never comes alone …… this is the codes it throws …. anyone can interpret them? hopefully it’s “just” the coil …. I had that problem with my V12 many times …..
Decided to fix my left front widow which had a hard time going up and down. Bought a spare on the scrap yard but when pulling the door apart and greased the exists, then it work fine … so I am left with a extra window heist …..
When having the door apart I took the opportunity to start on a noise-reduction project as I think there’s too much noise in the car while driving. I had bought some lead designated to noise-reduction and a professional source had told me it is not necessary to cover all plating. Here and there in the door will do. As from the factory there’s a pieces in the middle but still leaves a lot of uncovered space. Two sheets went into every door. I have then some thicker and more special lead for wheel cases where most of the noise comes from especially when I am running my winter tires. More will come from that later.
I also decided to put on a special out-side mirror I bought on eBay. This is with auto dimming but for the right side. My car has it for the left side but still get some light from the right side.
Bought one from the UK where the right side is the driver’s side. I see all cables are in the car and are convinced it’s only about getting the hardware … no need for new cables jagging into the left side mirror for getting the signal.
But the cables I got from the scrapyard here are not fitting 100 % - guess I will try and find the correct cable/sticker in a scrapyard in the UK
06-06-2016, 03:19 PM
#56
Super Member
Thread Starter
When having the door apart I took the opportunity to start on a noise-reduction project as I think there’s too much noise in the car while driving. I had bought some lead designated to noise-reduction and a professional source had told me it is not necessary to cover all plating. Here and there in the door will do. As from the factory there’s a pieces in the middle but still leaves a lot of uncovered space. Two sheets went into every door. I have then some thicker and more special lead for wheel cases where most of the noise comes from especially when I am running my winter tires. More will come from that later.
I removed it so I could plaster the wheel case in “real” thick rubber lead and after that reinstalled the original layer.
Also plaster in the side of the plating in the back. You can on pic. 4 see the original noise reduction as a single pieces … the car is getting heavier that’s for sure ……. but this is going to be good.
06-06-2016, 03:42 PM
#57
Super Member
Thread Starter
So – my high beam had for some time started to malfunction – going on and off ….. my suspicions was on the combination switch. When I bought the car I could feel it was going hard and the switch itself had “oily fingers” on it which indicated it had been change sometime with a secondhand one. I did however check all fuses and took the headlight out for measuring. No power was coming to it.
So another trip to the scarpyard before starting the work of removing the steering wheel. When coming down to it was not difficult since I have WIS. A couple of things to be aware off like align the front wheels – engage the steering lock – remove the key fare away from the vehicle - fully extract the steering wheel – remove the ground cable from the battery – and the most tricky removal of the clock spring contact.
The clock spring contact you have to take it very gently. You have two small screws which are not supposed to be remove totally but only to be almost totally out since they also is a protection against twisting. You have to counter the assembly with one hand to get fully access to the screws while you are unscrewing them. Take it gently. After that lurk it out and when assembling again take it easy and make sure you have the alignment 100% while pressing it back on.
Also make sure you have a 100% visual on how the steering wheel is aligned in the splines – mark it properly.
So another trip to the scarpyard before starting the work of removing the steering wheel. When coming down to it was not difficult since I have WIS. A couple of things to be aware off like align the front wheels – engage the steering lock – remove the key fare away from the vehicle - fully extract the steering wheel – remove the ground cable from the battery – and the most tricky removal of the clock spring contact.
The clock spring contact you have to take it very gently. You have two small screws which are not supposed to be remove totally but only to be almost totally out since they also is a protection against twisting. You have to counter the assembly with one hand to get fully access to the screws while you are unscrewing them. Take it gently. After that lurk it out and when assembling again take it easy and make sure you have the alignment 100% while pressing it back on.
Also make sure you have a 100% visual on how the steering wheel is aligned in the splines – mark it properly.
06-06-2016, 03:45 PM
#58
Super Member
Thread Starter
The bolt for the steering wheel is a HEX 10 and the screws for the airbag is T27
After the change my light was back on again – another well done operation.
After the change my light was back on again – another well done operation.
Last edited by amok55amg; 06-06-2016 at 05:00 PM.
06-14-2017, 03:11 AM
#59
Super Member
Thread Starter
Loving this thread so far.
But I have replaced the AC compressor on my E300TD, and it was certainly difficult...but I did it from the botton, as WIS indicated. The space was very tight, to remove all the hoses and stuff, but after that I did not have to remove anything other than the windshield washer res out of the way. Took me maybe 3 hours.
You took the really long way around it, man. Props to you, but that's too much.
But I have replaced the AC compressor on my E300TD, and it was certainly difficult...but I did it from the botton, as WIS indicated. The space was very tight, to remove all the hoses and stuff, but after that I did not have to remove anything other than the windshield washer res out of the way. Took me maybe 3 hours.
You took the really long way around it, man. Props to you, but that's too much.
It was a new DENSO - only 1˝ year old .... anybody have any idea why?
06-14-2017, 05:33 AM
#60
Mine was a denso as well, and its still working to this day.
