E320 4matic saved from the scrapyard
#27
Super Member
Thread Starter
Special tools I have made myself from time to time in my other build (SL55AMG) and as Mercedes try to use same components, procedures etc. then most of the tools fit several models - the tran being a 722.6 on the M112 and the M113 ……
#28
Super Member
Thread Starter
set-back
and then the ”upsssss” – I was getting cheap and did not buy a new gasket/item for this thing …… like a boomerang – it hits you in the neck – hard !
Luckily they had one in Germany – order before 11 a clock in the morning and you have next day at 8 a clock in the morning! that I call service!
Had to take all the fluid of the trans with all that takes with it …..
Luckily they had one in Germany – order before 11 a clock in the morning and you have next day at 8 a clock in the morning! that I call service!
Had to take all the fluid of the trans with all that takes with it …..
#30
Super Member
Thread Starter
Headlights spring to life ....
Decide to give the headlights a make-over. They were totally milky by years of sunlight and use ....... to get a good result it is essential you have a good working place and the right tools. I quickly made a good constellation for applying correct pressure for grinding and for a constant supply of water. I used P400, P600, P1000 and ending with P3000 ...... then drying, cleaner, primer and finaly 2-comp. clear coat. It took some hours but the result speaks for itself. My girlfriend literally thought I had bought new headlights! The pics. doesn’t show the fine result as in real.
#31
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1996 mercedes benz e320 with s option
Hi im rebuilding a 1996 e320 (not 4 matic) that I bought for 450$ and I had to replace the engine subframe and cooling system by chance does anyone have toque specs for the engine subframe bolts, engine mounts, engine mount brackets, steering rack bolts, and driveshaft flex disk bolts?
Ps. I also did a complete front suspension overhaul and upgraded most parts with higher quality parts also bought 4 Hankook concept v2 v+ rated tires for 300$ on ebay brand new! also bought materials to completely redo the interior in suede grey leather with smooth black and white leather trim and a new alpine stereo system with 2 11inch subs.
Ps. I also did a complete front suspension overhaul and upgraded most parts with higher quality parts also bought 4 Hankook concept v2 v+ rated tires for 300$ on ebay brand new! also bought materials to completely redo the interior in suede grey leather with smooth black and white leather trim and a new alpine stereo system with 2 11inch subs.
Last edited by turbo96; 05-27-2015 at 07:45 PM. Reason: update
#32
Super Member
Thread Starter
Continuing my "salvage"
Hi
Sorry for the late reply .... but if you do that much work on your car you really should invest in a repair DVD/Diagnostic tool .... if not then you can find a lot on this site http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti..._Index_old.htm
ells - I am continuing my "salvage" ! had to work on the oil pan for the transmission again ... still "sweating" and it's driving me mad .... so new oil pan and gasket ... ells it was time to change all the piping for the brakes. When I took hold of the line for the left back it broke ... the pipe that was left .. I pulled and it broke again! just in time but a pain since there no rooms for fingers and hands under the rear sub-frame. Lucky I was changing the seals in the diff since it was making a mess .....
Sorry for the late reply .... but if you do that much work on your car you really should invest in a repair DVD/Diagnostic tool .... if not then you can find a lot on this site http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti..._Index_old.htm
ells - I am continuing my "salvage" ! had to work on the oil pan for the transmission again ... still "sweating" and it's driving me mad .... so new oil pan and gasket ... ells it was time to change all the piping for the brakes. When I took hold of the line for the left back it broke ... the pipe that was left .. I pulled and it broke again! just in time but a pain since there no rooms for fingers and hands under the rear sub-frame. Lucky I was changing the seals in the diff since it was making a mess .....
#34
MBWorld Fanatic!
I've been compiling each post/photo as a combined PDF. Not only is this a
great thread showing your progress, but your photos can be referenced even
if I'm working on something else, yet related, and your photos give me a better
view in advance of my projects. If you ever complete this, or if someone wants
this all in one document, let me know. So far, it's 35mb including individual
hires photos. Super effort and documentation, amok55amg !!
(I like saving threads offline because i find that sometimes photo albums become
dead ends and we lose valuable photos on DIY threads)
great thread showing your progress, but your photos can be referenced even
if I'm working on something else, yet related, and your photos give me a better
view in advance of my projects. If you ever complete this, or if someone wants
this all in one document, let me know. So far, it's 35mb including individual
hires photos. Super effort and documentation, amok55amg !!
(I like saving threads offline because i find that sometimes photo albums become
dead ends and we lose valuable photos on DIY threads)
#35
Super Member
Thread Starter
Glad to help
Hi Raymond - I get a lot of help from this site and other members so I am glad to be able to help
More pics. of the diff. notice the differences from the old seal rings .... the new ones are of a better design - also worth notice is to be careful when prying off the retainer clips ... that it does not "fly away" - keep a piece of clothing over the diff when prying it off.
More pics. of the diff. notice the differences from the old seal rings .... the new ones are of a better design - also worth notice is to be careful when prying off the retainer clips ... that it does not "fly away" - keep a piece of clothing over the diff when prying it off.
#36
Super Member
Thread Starter
Diff ok
One have to be inventive for finding the exact right since for pressing on the new seal-rings - a wrong size and you ruined the seal-ring .... also changed the heat shield in the back - the old one was loose and making a rattling sound - the hardest part was to get the old aluminium fasteners off but a good little blowtorch do the trick in 95% of all these kind of encounters - just be sure you handle it correct and have a fire extinguisher at your site!
#37
Super Member
Thread Starter
Stopping the leak ..
Still have a leak on the oil pan on the transmission ..... hmmmmm ....... so I start changing some stuff ... again and again ....
Ells - also had to change the piping for the hydraulic suspension in the back - them too was eroded - not that big a job.
The flange on my exhaust was also gone due to erosion ... made some new ones in stainless steel - had to cut them in half and then weld them when on the exhaust.
Ells - also had to change the piping for the hydraulic suspension in the back - them too was eroded - not that big a job.
The flange on my exhaust was also gone due to erosion ... made some new ones in stainless steel - had to cut them in half and then weld them when on the exhaust.
#38
Super Member
Thread Starter
Wintertime = darktimes
Today is 1. September - ergo Summer is over! ha ha ha ... well - as you all know then the light on the W210 is not the best ever made - I even have Xenon witch is a very good light but still I think the car misses some really good light on the high beam. So I decided to put on a LED bar and make it work with the high beam only.
I haven't seen any extra light put on a Mercedes witch haven't ruined the look of the car so I decided to go for a "stealth" look. That will say a hidden LED light bar. The easy way was to mount it under the license plate but that will bring the light too low and not give a good light on the road - especially on a rainy road. So; there was only one place and that's behind the grill - some tubing for cooling of the hydraulic fluid, a horn and a stiffener for the kaross is in the way. I modified the tubing for a shorter version but will make another one in stainless steel tubing later. (surprised to see there was a restriction orifice in the tubing)
Now electronic is not my strongest side to bear with me if I'm not doing it the correct way.
I haven't seen any extra light put on a Mercedes witch haven't ruined the look of the car so I decided to go for a "stealth" look. That will say a hidden LED light bar. The easy way was to mount it under the license plate but that will bring the light too low and not give a good light on the road - especially on a rainy road. So; there was only one place and that's behind the grill - some tubing for cooling of the hydraulic fluid, a horn and a stiffener for the kaross is in the way. I modified the tubing for a shorter version but will make another one in stainless steel tubing later. (surprised to see there was a restriction orifice in the tubing)
Now electronic is not my strongest side to bear with me if I'm not doing it the correct way.
#39
Super Member
Thread Starter
LED light bar
Welded som new supports for the light bar - looks OK to me - only time will show if I will be forced to cut in the front grill
#41
MBWorld Fanatic!
#43
Super Member
Thread Starter
http://www.ebay.de/sch/sky-love-shop...72.m2749.l2654
I have changed the height - raised it a bit but had to cut in the steel over the bar ... also changed the grill (swapped with wife's!) This grill is more open and now it is working fine .....
I still need to work a little for the pipping for steering oil but that's not a issue now since winter is coming. Next off is the button for the lamp inside - by Swedish law you have to be able to turn the light totally off and I want it to work with a original MB button in the panel .... and that's a challenge I will tell you .... more about this later.
#45
Super Member
Thread Starter
#46
Super Member
Thread Starter
Compressor disaster
so – again disaster stroke!
My compressor for the AC went bad – I was coming home from work just finishing a drive of over 600 miles and as turned into the parking in front of our house my wife and son came to greet me and terrible sound came from the engine. I quickly parked the car and popped the hood – a smell of burned rubber filled the air. Looking down in the bay I couldn’t see anything wrong – put my fingers on the AC as this is the only thing I suspected it could be … and it was HOT (av av av) No doubt that it was this one – actually some month ago I did hear some strange sounds from the bay and actually bought this tool for “finding” sounds but then it went away.
I guess it was lucky it was at the front door it happened – this Denso compressor ….. it just happens exactly the same with my SL55AMG some years ago – also when coming home from a 600 miles drive and the wheel on it just crashed.
I thought Denso was a top brand …??
I have bought a new Denso and am planning to change it – anybody have any experience with this I will appreciate the “tips & tricks”
My compressor for the AC went bad – I was coming home from work just finishing a drive of over 600 miles and as turned into the parking in front of our house my wife and son came to greet me and terrible sound came from the engine. I quickly parked the car and popped the hood – a smell of burned rubber filled the air. Looking down in the bay I couldn’t see anything wrong – put my fingers on the AC as this is the only thing I suspected it could be … and it was HOT (av av av) No doubt that it was this one – actually some month ago I did hear some strange sounds from the bay and actually bought this tool for “finding” sounds but then it went away.
I guess it was lucky it was at the front door it happened – this Denso compressor ….. it just happens exactly the same with my SL55AMG some years ago – also when coming home from a 600 miles drive and the wheel on it just crashed.
I thought Denso was a top brand …??
I have bought a new Denso and am planning to change it – anybody have any experience with this I will appreciate the “tips & tricks”
#49
Super Member
Thread Starter
WIS and the AC compressor
So – no tips & tricks did come my way – had to use WIS entirely but after an inspection on how MB says this operation should be performed I decided against it.
WIS says you have to take the AC compressor out from underneath – this I have a very hard time to believe is doable – but even so it can come out from underneath I think the problem of getting to the connections for the hoses will leave a bad result. A bad result is the last thing one wants since this is the part that’s most difficult to access. I mean it’s a hell to undertake.
WIS simply sates do this and do that but the pain involved in doing it is not described!
WIS says you have to take the AC compressor out from underneath – this I have a very hard time to believe is doable – but even so it can come out from underneath I think the problem of getting to the connections for the hoses will leave a bad result. A bad result is the last thing one wants since this is the part that’s most difficult to access. I mean it’s a hell to undertake.
WIS simply sates do this and do that but the pain involved in doing it is not described!
#50
Super Member
Thread Starter
No – this is certainly a pain in the a…… to do – even if you’re a certified mechanic in a MB workshop or an amateur like me.
I decided to attack the problem from the top by removing the tandem pump for the steering which meant I had to remove the exhaust manifold first. Away with the coils and loosen the exhaust – taking the small nuts for the manifold – up and out – off with the hoses and then the two bolts from behind the tandem pump and last the two bolts in the front of the pump – off it goes and thereby free access to the AC compressor. Mush easier and you are sure you will attach the hoses for the AC compressor correctly with new gaskets. Then it’s simply to assemble it all again in the opposite order.
Also a pic. of tools that’s needed if you’re going to work on your MB – you can make the most with this but it is as a minimum. Teng tools is what I prefer … also remember it’s have to be in mm.
Finished ! Now I am waiting for the man to come and fill the AC system before trying to start the car – he will come on tomorrow; Tuesday.
I decided to attack the problem from the top by removing the tandem pump for the steering which meant I had to remove the exhaust manifold first. Away with the coils and loosen the exhaust – taking the small nuts for the manifold – up and out – off with the hoses and then the two bolts from behind the tandem pump and last the two bolts in the front of the pump – off it goes and thereby free access to the AC compressor. Mush easier and you are sure you will attach the hoses for the AC compressor correctly with new gaskets. Then it’s simply to assemble it all again in the opposite order.
Also a pic. of tools that’s needed if you’re going to work on your MB – you can make the most with this but it is as a minimum. Teng tools is what I prefer … also remember it’s have to be in mm.
Finished ! Now I am waiting for the man to come and fill the AC system before trying to start the car – he will come on tomorrow; Tuesday.