Need advice on front lower control arm bushings
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 66
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From: Atlanta, GA, USA
2011 ML350
Need advice on front lower control arm bushings
I'm looking at buying the bushings for my front lower control arm bushings but I can't tell if I need two or four of them. Will this kit cover both bushings on one control arm or just one bushing?
https://www.ecstuning.com/Mercedes_B...ngs/ES2763359/
I really can't tell until I get the control arms off.
https://www.ecstuning.com/Mercedes_B...ngs/ES2763359/
I really can't tell until I get the control arms off.
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Joined: Jan 2009
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From: V E G A S
1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
Looks like bushings I just put on wife 4Matic.
The long, aluminium bushing goes into front of the fork, the 2 halves on the back
I replaced them all, but per my observation it is the front, what is sold as "hydro bushing" that goes bad very fast.
I cut mine and it was perfectly dry inside, so either there was no fluid, or it leak years ago.
Read WIS as there are some tricks how to remove them. I had a press but took me whole combination of pipes, blocks, large sockets and bars to do the job.
Also pay attention to positioning and center nipple in the rear.
The long, aluminium bushing goes into front of the fork, the 2 halves on the back
I replaced them all, but per my observation it is the front, what is sold as "hydro bushing" that goes bad very fast.
I cut mine and it was perfectly dry inside, so either there was no fluid, or it leak years ago.
Read WIS as there are some tricks how to remove them. I had a press but took me whole combination of pipes, blocks, large sockets and bars to do the job.
Also pay attention to positioning and center nipple in the rear.
Last edited by kajtek1; Jan 27, 2016 at 11:05 AM.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 66
Likes: 1
From: Atlanta, GA, USA
2011 ML350
Looks like bushings I just put on wife 4Matic.
The long, aluminium bushing goes into front of the fork, the 2 halves on the back
I replaced them all, but per my observation it is the front, what is sold as "hydro bushing" that goes bad very fast.
I cut mine and it was perfectly dry inside, so either there was no fluid, or it leak years ago.
Read WIS as there are some tricks how to remove them. I had a press but took me whole combination of pipes, blocks, large sockets and bars to do the job.
Also pay attention to positioning and center nipple in the rear.
The long, aluminium bushing goes into front of the fork, the 2 halves on the back
I replaced them all, but per my observation it is the front, what is sold as "hydro bushing" that goes bad very fast.
I cut mine and it was perfectly dry inside, so either there was no fluid, or it leak years ago.
Read WIS as there are some tricks how to remove them. I had a press but took me whole combination of pipes, blocks, large sockets and bars to do the job.
Also pay attention to positioning and center nipple in the rear.
Were you able to press the old ones out pretty easy? I can't really find a DIY on this. I do have access to a press in a friends shop but I can't tell exactly what I'm up against until I pull he arms out.
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From: V E G A S
1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
Check WIS as it will give you some idea.
That one linked on the forum had poor quality pictures, but it gave me starting idea. WIS advise removal with threaded rods, so you need to be familiar with pressing to figure out different concept.
I had 20t press, so did not even feel the resistance.
But one of the bushings come with poop, so there was some good tension in it.
Don't think your problem are those bushing thought.
Mine front was wear to the degree when inner metal sleeve would knock and rub during driving, yet the steering and handling was perfect.
Put a pry bar against those bushings.
Hydro-bushing should flex a bit even when new, but when you have 1/4 " play, you need new one.
That one linked on the forum had poor quality pictures, but it gave me starting idea. WIS advise removal with threaded rods, so you need to be familiar with pressing to figure out different concept.
I had 20t press, so did not even feel the resistance.
But one of the bushings come with poop, so there was some good tension in it.
Don't think your problem are those bushing thought.
Mine front was wear to the degree when inner metal sleeve would knock and rub during driving, yet the steering and handling was perfect.
Put a pry bar against those bushings.
Hydro-bushing should flex a bit even when new, but when you have 1/4 " play, you need new one.
Last edited by kajtek1; Jan 27, 2016 at 07:06 PM.
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From: Right Behind You
1998 E430; 2007 Porsche 911 C4S Cabriolet; 2011 Expedition EL Limited; 2014 E350 Estate
W210 bushings wear quickly compared to other cares I have owned. Get used to replacing them frequently.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jan 2009
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From: V E G A S
1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
I (or my family) did own several W210's, several with over 200k miles and I never replaced any suspension part on them.
Now I had to replace hydrobushing on W211 at 160k miles, where seems some W210 do have the as well.
Hydrobushing, just like hydro motor mounts do leak sooner than solid rubber counterparts. '
Luxury cost more.
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Mercedes-Benz CLK 550
UPRATED BUSHINGS AND FRONT/REAR CAMBER, CASTER ADJUSTER KITS
We saw the need to end the frustration – Constant ongoing trips to dealers or alignment shops or constantly changing tire brands.
With unique patented designed kits to suit virtually every model Mercedes 1968 to 2016....
FRONT BUSHINGS – Replacement for the 4 main highest wearing suspension bushings. With twice the load bearing area of OEM. Yet still 2 axis/self aligning without the use of air voids allowing also improved brake and steering response.
Then (with no “Camber” or “Caster” adjustment OEM) – incorporating into these bushings a K-MAC design breakthrough of no disassembly required each time – instead ongoing/precise single wrench adjustment “on car” – accurately (under load) direct on alignment rack!
Allowing to fix it right the first time - resolving costly, premature edge tire wear and the capability to properly fix steering pull, improve high speed directional control along with reduced dive/lift on brake and acceleration.
The result of worn bushes, or because of altering height, fitting wide profile tires, load carrying curb knock damage
CAMBER – Allows to actually change the tire contact angle, improving wear/ traction/ understeer/ oversteer
CASTER – Resolves steering pull, increases steering response. With better turn in and high speed directional control, along with improved anti dive/lift under brake and acceleration.
For the front (only) – there are available fluted offset bolts. But these are inaccurate (one only position) bolts offering a minimal .3 of one degree (1/8” / 3mm) and require labour intensive disassembly each time.
While the K-MAC unique patented design provides up to 4 times the adjustment range (and single wrench precise/ongoing adjustment capability – on car).
FOR THE REAR SIMILAR KITS - providing Camber also for the 1st time for more even tire wear/traction. Again these 2 inner lower arm bushings are the highest wearing. Bush extraction tool included allowing bushes to be replaced on car. Rear kit also includes importantly extra Toe adjustment bushes to compensate for the new Camber facility.
NOTE – you can purchase adjustable upper Camber arms for the rear, but difficult to fit, access and to reduce inner edge tire wear unlike K-MAC lower arm bushings – these arms need to adjust top of tire outwards which reduces all important clearance to outer fender.
Front Camber and Caster bushings (W210) #502116J $380
Rear Camber (and extra Toe) (W210) #502026H $320
Delivery price for MB World members USA/Canada is $30 one kit or $40 front and rear.
Payment can be made by PayPal, Visa or MasterCard.
See link for latest 2016 catalog http://K-mac.com/mercedes/
We saw the need to end the frustration – Constant ongoing trips to dealers or alignment shops or constantly changing tire brands.
With unique patented designed kits to suit virtually every model Mercedes 1968 to 2016....
FRONT BUSHINGS – Replacement for the 4 main highest wearing suspension bushings. With twice the load bearing area of OEM. Yet still 2 axis/self aligning without the use of air voids allowing also improved brake and steering response.
Then (with no “Camber” or “Caster” adjustment OEM) – incorporating into these bushings a K-MAC design breakthrough of no disassembly required each time – instead ongoing/precise single wrench adjustment “on car” – accurately (under load) direct on alignment rack!
Allowing to fix it right the first time - resolving costly, premature edge tire wear and the capability to properly fix steering pull, improve high speed directional control along with reduced dive/lift on brake and acceleration.
The result of worn bushes, or because of altering height, fitting wide profile tires, load carrying curb knock damage
CAMBER – Allows to actually change the tire contact angle, improving wear/ traction/ understeer/ oversteer
CASTER – Resolves steering pull, increases steering response. With better turn in and high speed directional control, along with improved anti dive/lift under brake and acceleration.
For the front (only) – there are available fluted offset bolts. But these are inaccurate (one only position) bolts offering a minimal .3 of one degree (1/8” / 3mm) and require labour intensive disassembly each time.
While the K-MAC unique patented design provides up to 4 times the adjustment range (and single wrench precise/ongoing adjustment capability – on car).
FOR THE REAR SIMILAR KITS - providing Camber also for the 1st time for more even tire wear/traction. Again these 2 inner lower arm bushings are the highest wearing. Bush extraction tool included allowing bushes to be replaced on car. Rear kit also includes importantly extra Toe adjustment bushes to compensate for the new Camber facility.
NOTE – you can purchase adjustable upper Camber arms for the rear, but difficult to fit, access and to reduce inner edge tire wear unlike K-MAC lower arm bushings – these arms need to adjust top of tire outwards which reduces all important clearance to outer fender.
Front Camber and Caster bushings (W210) #502116J $380
Rear Camber (and extra Toe) (W210) #502026H $320
Delivery price for MB World members USA/Canada is $30 one kit or $40 front and rear.
Payment can be made by PayPal, Visa or MasterCard.
See link for latest 2016 catalog http://K-mac.com/mercedes/
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MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 9,224
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From: V E G A S
1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
KMAC now you have my attention.
Do you have knowledge if MB do have hydro in them?
Your "no air voids" indicate something, but what exactly?
Are you making stiffer, solid bushings that suppose to be better?
Do you have knowledge if MB do have hydro in them?
Your "no air voids" indicate something, but what exactly?
Are you making stiffer, solid bushings that suppose to be better?
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Joined: Apr 2013
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Mercedes-Benz CLK 550
- Later models have oil, not the earlier W210
- Air voids/oil is used to allow compliance/flex
- Many after market brands replace OEM bushes with stiffer, solid urethane bushings but while they do improve straight line traction and braking performance - problem is this approach restricts the actual arms travelling through their required suspension arcs
K-MAC (over 50 years in aftermarket bush design manufacture) while eliminating the oil and air voids but then incorporate, where required 2 axis/self aligning bushes with more than twice the load bearing area resolving binding issues to further improve performance and bush life.
