R2dMax

So in my (seemingly non-stop) continuation of suspension issues. I have replaced the Front ball joints.

rear wheel bearings, hubs, outer lower control arm bushings, rotors, pads.

But now up front over certain bumps or entering a parking lot or going over the large speed humps I'm getting a clunking noise I cant figure out.

I know that may be a little vague but I'm sure someone has experienced it. Any ideas?

Tall Giraffe

Check the sway bar links and rubber bushing.

Also loose front bearings can give a little bit of a clunk over speed bumps.

R2dMax

OK thanks for the info. Are bearings that fallible on these? I hear about bearings constantly. Never was a big thing on my other Euros

Tall Giraffe

I think it depends on mileage and road conditions. Simply test by checking for play when the car is elevated. The can be tightened and regreased before actual replacement unless you have grinding or groan.

I would suspect the sway bushings first however of course changing the drop links while there.

Junster

I had the front end related rattle/clunk issue at low speed when I go over uneven surfaces. It felt like rail road tracks will shake something off my car. Turning 90 left up my drive way gave me the obvious 'clunk' noise. It was not just one thing that caused these in my case.

I replaced both front wheel bearings after noticing a significant play on the passenger side wheel. When I did the usual check off ground, it showed plays at every angle. Replacing the bearings help the rattle noise down but not the clunk.

I then replaced both tie rod ends after I noticed a slight play when I shake the driver side wheel at 3 to 9 o'clock. I actually felt the play when I put my finger on the tie rod bushing while shaking the wheel. This got rid of clunk noise some but not entirely.

No way to check any play but I then replaced sway bar bushing and the links. Bingo. The noise is now gone for 100% and now the handling even feels like a new car. What a difference...

If I had the sway bar bushing done first, I think I might have had other play issue neglected tho. My two cents.

R2dMax

Wow, Ok so (knowing how things have gone for me with this car) I'll need

Front wheel bearings x2
Tie rod ends x2
sway bar bushings
sway bar end links

@Junster - Did your front wheels feel lumpy or funny when turning at full lock (U-turn or tight turn)?

Junster

No, turning full lock felt ok. There was just annoying clunk noise when the left wheel hit pot holes or up hill at low speed. My E320 is rear wheel drive only BTW not 4Matic.

You should try to just adjust the bearing plays before replacement if only slight play is felt which caused slight rattle over bumps in my case. I didn't event think of adjusting but just replaced them. I kinda wish I did.

Others parts are easier to replace and probably good idea to just replacement at that age as they are almost expendable items.

Tall Giraffe

IDK how many miles you have but I would simply check and tighten the front bearings if necessary. Bought mine at 80K with no history of replacement and now at 115K, my indie says that the bearings/ grease looked good and he simply did a tightening procedure.

I have replaced all the suspension pieces except for shocks and springs (and front bearings) probably in the same pursuit as you. It started with wandering and popping over uneven surfaces so I replaced the LCA, including bushings, lower ball joints. I opted to replace the entire arm vs pressing the bushing. Since it was taken a part the indie gave a discount so I replaced the upper ball joints. It stopped the popping/wandering over uneven surfaces but then had pulling to the right even after the alignment and I always had the clunk over speed bumps.

I then moved on to the bushings and drop links. Once I did that the looseness and rattling went away and created more solid feel at the wheel but the pulling continued. I did this myself and went OEM rubber since I could never find a definitive answer on poly.

Then I replaced the tie rod ends. I did this myself. After researching I saw that the inners are not that much more difficult to remove so I opted to do them as well since I would be there and did not want to return anytime soon. The inners were limp noodles and I suspect was my pulling problem. The only thing to note is that the clamp to the protective boot is secured by a special crimp pliers and if your boots are torn or brittle, only use OEM replacement boot kit and look for the pliers online. Likely a one time use but done right and not zip tied. Once I did this and aligned at the stealer, it is straight, smooth and more solid.

I still had a wheel shimmy problem at 60-70 which I thought were my monoblocks especially after I bought new tires. I bought new replica 18" then 19" wheels but it was still there with new tires each time. My indie tightened my bearings and almost all shimmy is gone and it is the tightest my car has ever felt. My indie said since the bearings were loose, the shimmy chopped my front tires slightly but the feel is close to what I have been looking for.

The body rock in turns is the last to be eliminated, so in the near future, I will be going to Koni and Vogtland and I cant wait to complete the journey.

Hope this helps.

fcarrera21

Im having the same issue you have rattle.on uneven surface rough roads or pot holes. What kind of veichle. U have mine is happening on a 07 s550

R2dMax

Mine is MUCH older and smaller.. lol
2000 e320.

Doesn't the S550 have air suspension?

R2dMax

I finally finished/fixed the rear issues and now it's nice and tight. But it has made especially prevalent the front end issues:
- clunking over bumps and road imperfections
- wanders especially at speed
I can say there are no other noises that I hear now. Do the suggestions made earlier still stand or should I adjust my plan of attack?

bbirdwell

Search on issues with rear sub-frame bushings. One pair relatively easy to replace, other pair a bit more difficult. Your description jives with others'. Again, perform a search and it will at least let you know how to inspect your rear sub-frame bushings for wear.

Best to you.

R2dMax

Thanks for the info but I have the rear in order now. The wandering and clunking is up front. Sorry if I didn't specify it.

Junster

I would check the front wheel bearing for play. If there is, tight it up to spec. Then check the tie rod ends. If there is any slight play at joints, I would replace them both. Then I would just replace the sway bar bushing and links.

Above three remedies took care of my car and car now feel like new again(seriously..). I feel lucky that I didn't have any issue with parts that require bigger job such as ball joints.

illest

I had a clunking sound at slow speeds over bumps. replacing the sway bar bushings and links fixed it, not too expensive and easy to do.

R2dMax

So now in addition to what was mentioned earlier I have replaced the ENTIRE Tie rod assembly on both sides (yes inner and outer) and I have (thinking my issues were sorted) installed my 19" TSW wheels again. The 1st time I installed them they exposed the bushing issues as the factory 16s seemed to mask them. Not it seems as if my right wheel "casters" at about 45-52 MPH. Very similar to the front wheels on a shopping cart when you roll it too fast. WHAT THE HECK ESLE IS WRONG WITH THIS THING???!!! I have replaced pretty much EVERY suspension piece and bushing. Any suggestions?

BTW, I'm not yelling at you guys, just frustrated with this never ending problematic vehicle. Mind you at this point the "cosmetic" things that irritate me to look at are still happening and I've been dropping copious amounts of money under the car and can't address them or justify it until the car is reasonably safe... SMH

Please help... again!

fabbrisd1

Worn suspension parts are best replaced. From what I have gleamed from your ongoing posts - most of the suspension parts you replaced are common where items at mileage.. labor is the kicker on cost..

However, iff your wheels are not correct offset - your suspension will not correct that

R2dMax

Thanks, but the wheels are the correct offset. And to clarify, literally the ONLY suspension piece I have not replaced is shocks. I DO know however that offset will not cause the wheel to caster or shake similar to the front wheel on a grocery cart that is pushed too fast.

Any other thoughts?