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Hey, folks. Long time lurker, first time poster. I've used this site to fix several issues already on my 2001 E320. Original owner, 120k miles. This weekend, I started to hear the clicking (only at low RPM) coming from the top left of the dash when the A/C is on. I do *not* have the A/C set to auto, which is why I was unsure if it was an actuator motor at all. However, after reading more it seems like this is the case. My biggest question is where can I find the part numbers for each associated actuator/stepper motor? Also, any instructions for removing the dash pieces required to get to the actuator/stepper motor?
The non Polish way is to first do a flap test which will confirm what and whether you have a flap fault---once you confirm that there is a fault---post your VIN and the flap number to be replaced and someone will research the correct, repeat correct part in MB EPC.-----all else is the Polish way of spam, misinformation and the preverbal runaround the may pole with how it was done on a 46 ford pickup!!---wait and you will understand!!
The flap test can be done with you AC control unit and is available within the forums stickies---a very easy and reliable test!!
Thank you. I know from lurking on various MB forums that what Plutoe says is golden. Thank you for your time. I'll go through the test tonight and report back.
Flap test revealed no errors, but the noise was still persistent. So, I popped the hood. When the A/C is on, the noise wasn't consistently there and when it was there, it would be louder or quieter at times - not necessarily dependent upon engine RPM or the level of power the A/C was turned up to. Based on this, I'm thinking it could be the tensioner. I've gone ahead and ordered an OEM tensioner + idler pulley + pulley bolt. If the belt is coming off, might as well do them both. I'd really like to do water pump - just because - but will hold off on that. I'll update this when I get the parts later this week/weekend.
I've also got a Drivers Side & Passenger Side Catalytic Converter (from header collector all the way back to muffler) system to swap out. Sounds like a jar of marbles when at a stop-light or at low speed. Looking at the parts, that appears to be pretty much bolt-on. May have a very productive weekend in the near future!
The rest of the car is fantastic, factory paint holding up very well to the Florida sun, only a little bit of clear fade on the top of the front bumper. Only interior issue is a very light sag at the far rear part of the headliner. Trunk release switch toggle switch doesn't work, but I have a replacement for all of switches around the shifter.
Thanks, again! Parts are inbound and should all be in-hand by early next week. I'll make sure to follow back up as to whether or not these items fix the issue.
Just an update - all parts have arrived as of today. I'll be doing the belt tensioner and idler pulley + bolt tomorrow night or next weekend, depends. I *did* knock out the passenger side catalytic converters today. I'll be doing drivers side tomorrow morning, which is the side with the rattle. What a pain in the *** that was on the passenger side. I also cut off the swaybay bushing metal shield/shroud - outta here. Made getting to the outside header bolt much easier. 3/8" universal joint and a 12" extension and it was off no problem. It took me about an hour to do the passenger side but most of that was spent trying to strategize on approach. I do plan on busting out my impact wrench tomorrow for the bolts that are at the very back of the unit - what a pain in the *** with those.
So, both catalytic converters have been replaced. I spent - no joke - an hour trying to get the driver side outside bolt in. What a pain in the ***. I've still got a bit of an exhaust leak coming from the passenger side right where the header meets the fresh new pipe. I'll just tighten each side 1 turn until it stops. On the off-chance that there's NO exhaust leak, I've ordered a carbon monoxide detector so that I can verify if there is or isn't an exhaust leak. I can't see any smoke coming from the joint, it only sounds a bit more throaty than before. This could be a sign of an exhaust leak, or simply a less-stout converter. Since these aren't *genuine* Mercedes Benz pipes there's really only one way to tell and that's with the CO monitor.
Also, for those wrenching under your car in the dark to tighten up loose bolts, beware of scalding hot catalytic converters. I've got a nice burn on my right forearm that bears resemblance to a small piece of pizza.
Talking about beware, when I admire concrete block under the car, I would not go under the car not resting firmly on solid stands.
Block still can be extra precaution as stand can fail occasionally -especially when you pound on pipes.
So did you get all problems solved?
Talking about beware, when I admire concrete block under the car, I would not go under the car not resting firmly on solid stands.
Block still can be extra precaution as stand can fail occasionally -especially when you pound on pipes.
So did you get all problems solved?
Sorry, that's a limited view on that picture. The front of the car is on 10,000lb ramps with a 2nd hydraulic jack under the front crossmember. Parking brake on hard. The cinder block was really there to give me a small piece of mind. The rocker-panel jacking points were only used to get a few inches of clearance to tighten up the connection between the mid-pipes and the muffler.
You are right, though, never want to be involved in an under-the-car accident!
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