AC Repair
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 107
Likes: 3
From: Houston area, TX
2001 E-55 AMG
AC Repair
Background
2001 E-55 112000 miles
I bought this car in October 2014 with 103,000 miles and have all the service records. The AC system never required any service besides the cabin filters.
Last year, spring 2015 I had to add a small amount of R-134A so the system would cool properly.
This year, March 2016, the system did not cool properly. I noticed an oily substance on the top of the pan beneath the compressor and the rest pressure was 4 bar. I topped off the system and it cooled properly for a couple of days and leaked back down to 4 bar.
I verified that all sensors work and aux fans function properly.
I have a vacuum pump, gauge set and R-134a.
Plan
I plan to replace compressor, receiver/dryer/accumulator, expansion valve.
Question
Should I replace the condenser too, or just back flush it?
What are you thoughts.
I have conducted searches and read many threads but I still would like to get constructive feedback from knowledgable members.
2001 E-55 112000 miles
I bought this car in October 2014 with 103,000 miles and have all the service records. The AC system never required any service besides the cabin filters.
Last year, spring 2015 I had to add a small amount of R-134A so the system would cool properly.
This year, March 2016, the system did not cool properly. I noticed an oily substance on the top of the pan beneath the compressor and the rest pressure was 4 bar. I topped off the system and it cooled properly for a couple of days and leaked back down to 4 bar.
I verified that all sensors work and aux fans function properly.
I have a vacuum pump, gauge set and R-134a.
Plan
I plan to replace compressor, receiver/dryer/accumulator, expansion valve.
Question
Should I replace the condenser too, or just back flush it?
What are you thoughts.
I have conducted searches and read many threads but I still would like to get constructive feedback from knowledgable members.
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 9,225
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From: V E G A S
1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
I had factory compressor still performing very well on car with almost 300k miles, so those things do last, epecially considering that I drive in 3-digits temperatures good number of days every day and am experiencing 114F from time to time.
Sounds to me that you found the leak source, yet you want to do major replacement.
Something wrong with fixing the leak?
Then yes, if you replace compressor, replacing dryer, where all the dirt collects is highly recommended. Expansion valve might require cleaning, but no replacement necessary.
Sounds to me that you found the leak source, yet you want to do major replacement.
Something wrong with fixing the leak?
Then yes, if you replace compressor, replacing dryer, where all the dirt collects is highly recommended. Expansion valve might require cleaning, but no replacement necessary.
Newbie
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
From: NJ USA
1999 E320
My 99 E320 had an AC issue and was blowing hot air two years ago. A normal recharge won't hold for long and repeated the same problem. It also accumulated oil residue in the engine compartment.
I took it to a local garage and he replaced the shredder valve(?) that you use to charge the system with on the low side for free. He said he remembered it was laying around somewhere in his shop. No problem since then. What a nice guy... You never know it could just be a simple thing.
So, I asked for an oil change from him on top of the basic system recharge he had to perform.
I took it to a local garage and he replaced the shredder valve(?) that you use to charge the system with on the low side for free. He said he remembered it was laying around somewhere in his shop. No problem since then. What a nice guy... You never know it could just be a simple thing.
So, I asked for an oil change from him on top of the basic system recharge he had to perform.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 9,225
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From: V E G A S
1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
Having high pressure sensor display on climatronic why would one worry about high pressure schrader valve?
I think you are overthinking the issue.
First you want to replace compressor where there is no indication anything is wrong with the old one.
Than you want to flush the system, while you are still using the same refrigerant?
Flush is needed when you convert the system from one refrigerant to other.
I think you are overthinking the issue.
First you want to replace compressor where there is no indication anything is wrong with the old one.
Than you want to flush the system, while you are still using the same refrigerant?
Flush is needed when you convert the system from one refrigerant to other.
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2014
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From: Houston area, TX
2001 E-55 AMG
I think you do not understand my origonal question. The compressor appears to be leaking. Loss of pressure, oil leaking out past the shaft seal. The parts kit I'm considering includes the compressor, expansion valve and receiver/drier. The warranty states that all these components and the condenser, if unable to flush, must be replaced. I can get all of the parts from Rockauto for $350 delivered. I have a 30# bottle of refridgerant, vacuum pump and gauge set.
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MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jan 2009
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From: V E G A S
1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
I would not spend $350 on part + several hr of labor on "appears" not to mention that you never said about leak on compressor in your original post.
Compressors seals can be replaced, but I agree that this is not really DIY, but still double check it is compressor that leaks, not 25 cents oring on fitting.
Compressors seals can be replaced, but I agree that this is not really DIY, but still double check it is compressor that leaks, not 25 cents oring on fitting.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 107
Likes: 3
From: Houston area, TX
2001 E-55 AMG
I was able to raise the car up today and remove the lower panels. Turns out the oil leak is from the hose between the condenser and drier. Much less expensive repair. $65 for hose and drier.
What is the proper oil and quantity for the compressor ?
What is the proper oil and quantity for the compressor ?
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Joined: Jan 2009
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From: V E G A S
1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
I see you met forum #1 troll & spammer.
Now back to business. You have no way to measure how much oil you lost, so you have to use your best judgement.
The oil makes huge stains from few drops, so it easy to overestimate.
I would put 50% of recommended amount. You should find "oil charge" with R134 (for easy application) on the shelf.
Is your drier having inspection glass on it?
Now back to business. You have no way to measure how much oil you lost, so you have to use your best judgement.
The oil makes huge stains from few drops, so it easy to overestimate.
I would put 50% of recommended amount. You should find "oil charge" with R134 (for easy application) on the shelf.
Is your drier having inspection glass on it?
Last edited by kajtek1; Apr 6, 2016 at 06:13 PM.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 107
Likes: 3
From: Houston area, TX
2001 E-55 AMG
I see you met forum #1 troll & spammer.
Now back to business. You have no way to measure how much oil you lost, so you have to use your best judgement.
The oil makes huge stains from few drops, so it easy to overestimate.
I would put 50% of recommended amount. You should find "oil charge" with R134 (for easy application) on the shelf.
Is your drier having inspection glass on it?
Now back to business. You have no way to measure how much oil you lost, so you have to use your best judgement.
The oil makes huge stains from few drops, so it easy to overestimate.
I would put 50% of recommended amount. You should find "oil charge" with R134 (for easy application) on the shelf.
Is your drier having inspection glass on it?
Can't tell from the picture if the drier has an inspection glass.
Parts will arrive n a few days.
I'll add a bit of oil to the system before startup.
Thanks for the info.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jan 2009
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From: V E G A S
1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
Those small details might be not worth mentioning for you, but they can make major difference in car repair.
Most of AC oil accumulate in drier, so since you are replacing it with defective hose, you need to add close to 100% of oil capacity.
Most of AC oil accumulate in drier, so since you are replacing it with defective hose, you need to add close to 100% of oil capacity.
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A gaggle of MB's
With fresh compressor - "most" are pre-oiled + fresh/new drier + updated driver requires the updated hose = yes, from what I follow here you are good to go... except, I prefer to have a shop do a evac and fill, rather than straight fill from the tank.
My experience it's good to get all the old **** out with the evac - which also serves to test all connections are good..
For me, if the compressor is "precharged" or "pre-oiled" personally I don't add oil... but that's just me..
My experience it's good to get all the old **** out with the evac - which also serves to test all connections are good..
For me, if the compressor is "precharged" or "pre-oiled" personally I don't add oil... but that's just me..
Newbie
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 5
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From: New Smyrna Beach , Florida
2004 E320 Sedan
Ac stopped working
I have a 04 E320. My ac stopped working and the light by the recycle button is blinking. I had this system recharged and the codes reset but it's still not coming on. Does anybody have any ideas?
