HOT! (No ac)
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Joined: Jan 2009
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From: V E G A S
1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
I hope you know how to access AC sensor readout and error codes? If not -do a search.
Start with errors, if any write them down and report here, then clear them.
Than do 1 to 8 sensor readouts in 3 situations.
1. on cold morning before engine start.
2. on hot day when entering the car ,engine off
3. couple of minutes with engine running after #2
Start with errors, if any write them down and report here, then clear them.
Than do 1 to 8 sensor readouts in 3 situations.
1. on cold morning before engine start.
2. on hot day when entering the car ,engine off
3. couple of minutes with engine running after #2
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 86
Likes: 1
2002 E430 4matic (W210)
DTCs were
1416
1227
1231
1234
1416
1422
Codes erased, 1416 remains
When it cools down tonight, I will tonight take a reading, because I don't have time in the mornings and will post results.
1416
1227
1231
1234
1416
1422
Codes erased, 1416 remains
When it cools down tonight, I will tonight take a reading, because I don't have time in the mornings and will post results.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 86
Likes: 1
2002 E430 4matic (W210)
The behaviour of the system seems highly erratic. Some times the fan speed will increase when I'm trying to decrease, recirc seems to work when it wants to, some times I can reduce fan speed till 'off' and fan still blows at max speed till I've turned key off, and won't actually stop till I physically remove the key.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 9,225
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From: V E G A S
1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
I think you make computer confused with your play.
Both settings on low and defrost is not real life setting and when something malfunction on top of that, the program might hang up.
Do a test and we go from there.
Both settings on low and defrost is not real life setting and when something malfunction on top of that, the program might hang up.
Do a test and we go from there.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2016
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2002 E430 4matic (W210)
I've done countless readings over the past few days and all sensors seem to be giving realistic results. The refrigerant pressure is it a constant zero regardless of testing conditions the refrigerant temperature seems to match the heater core temperature within a degree or two I think all I need is to have my system recharged and check for leaks and then I'll do some more testing to see if any of the other sensors seem to give wonky results.
If after recharging the system I still have a pressure readout of 0.0 then I'm going to have to replace that sensor correct?
If after recharging the system I still have a pressure readout of 0.0 then I'm going to have to replace that sensor correct?
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MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 9,225
Likes: 1,798
From: V E G A S
1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
Your sensors on cold morning shows 12C differences, while all of them should be the same (unless you slept longer and let the sun to warm up the cabin)
Still the main issue is you have no refrigerant.
DIY would be buying a can of R134 with dye and dye only and charge the system. Than trying to run it and recheck following day, while observing the piping for color showing up.
Nice sheet btw. What program did you use?
Still the main issue is you have no refrigerant.
DIY would be buying a can of R134 with dye and dye only and charge the system. Than trying to run it and recheck following day, while observing the piping for color showing up.
Nice sheet btw. What program did you use?
Last edited by kajtek1; May 8, 2016 at 12:37 AM.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2016
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2002 E430 4matic (W210)
It was roughly 20*c outside (been hot out lately)
Sun comes up at 4am.
I used apples numbers app on iCloud for the spreadsheet just for ease of posting, ironically it won't let my change or add values on my phone.
I'll have the system dyed and post results of another battery of tests ( might be a few days)
Sun comes up at 4am.
I used apples numbers app on iCloud for the spreadsheet just for ease of posting, ironically it won't let my change or add values on my phone.
I'll have the system dyed and post results of another battery of tests ( might be a few days)
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A gaggle of MB's
To be helpful - if you have ZERO refrigerant - then that has to be addressed - and normally has been caused by: (1) failed compressor (2) punctured compressor (3) slow/major leak in fittings - each/all of which can be identified with dye test.
The "rest" of the diagnostic are not important until this has been addressed.
If compressor is blown - not all is lost - as new Denso/genuine can be $300+ - China made Behr quite good - with new drier you will need new "updated hose - whole deal compressor/drier/expansion-valve/new updated hose can be under $300 in parts.
For all you know at the moment - one poor fitting or degraded o-ring could be the deal.
Keep the beat !
The "rest" of the diagnostic are not important until this has been addressed.
If compressor is blown - not all is lost - as new Denso/genuine can be $300+ - China made Behr quite good - with new drier you will need new "updated hose - whole deal compressor/drier/expansion-valve/new updated hose can be under $300 in parts.
For all you know at the moment - one poor fitting or degraded o-ring could be the deal.
Keep the beat !
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Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 107
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From: Houston area, TX
2001 E-55 AMG
I thought I lost my compressor seal since there was oil everywhere. I cleaned everything with simple green, and pressurized the system. Turned out it was the hose between the drier and condenser. $60 in parts, evacuate and recharge. Blows nice and cold.
