Unsure what it is
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Joined: Nov 2012
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From: NC from OH thru VA
87 190e 2.3-16v Cosworth; 2000 E320 Saloon
Unsure what it is
So my E320 seems to have lost a step or two of power. It idles ok. but I'm starting to feel a little stutter every so often in regular acceleration. Not pronounced, a passenger wouldn't even notice but I do. Oil changes are done at proper intervals. I keep the maintenance up. It has 157k at this point. Does that sound like a Timing Chain related item?
I'm preparing for the worst as this has been my most troublesome European car to date. Not trying to get into the whole "Buy Japanese" debate as I have been driving Euros for 20 years (BMW primarily, Audi, Land Rover and now Mercedes) so I'm familiar. But my car in particular has been an overly needy Mistress so I'm on edge about it because every time I fix one thing 3 more pop up.
Any ideas on what you think my issue could be? No CELs or anything
I'm preparing for the worst as this has been my most troublesome European car to date. Not trying to get into the whole "Buy Japanese" debate as I have been driving Euros for 20 years (BMW primarily, Audi, Land Rover and now Mercedes) so I'm familiar. But my car in particular has been an overly needy Mistress so I'm on edge about it because every time I fix one thing 3 more pop up.
Any ideas on what you think my issue could be? No CELs or anything
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Joined: Jan 2009
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From: V E G A S
1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
No CEL doesn't mean you don't have pending codes.
You need to tell more about car records.
How old are plug, MAF, CPS ?
When was the last time you replaced pilot bushing?
You need to tell more about car records.
How old are plug, MAF, CPS ?
When was the last time you replaced pilot bushing?
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 205
Likes: 1
From: NC from OH thru VA
87 190e 2.3-16v Cosworth; 2000 E320 Saloon
I don't have records on it but supposedly the plugs were done a couple of years ago at 130k before I bought it. Not sure on the MAF. CPS? Have not replaced the Pilot Bushing myself.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 9,224
Likes: 1,798
From: V E G A S
1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
Start with checking the codes and pulling the plug.
I bought our wagon close to 150k and having some records, I assumed plugs have been replaced.
But at 160k I was doing breather seal and pulled the plugs. THEY WERE ORIGINALS.
Funny new plugs did not change the performance, nor mpg.
Anyway, MAF on those cars can be consider wearable, so at one point you might want to get new one and see if it will make a change.
If you see any oil residue around pilot bushing, or at wire harness in electronic coffin, do new bushing ASAP
I bought our wagon close to 150k and having some records, I assumed plugs have been replaced.
But at 160k I was doing breather seal and pulled the plugs. THEY WERE ORIGINALS.
Funny new plugs did not change the performance, nor mpg.
Anyway, MAF on those cars can be consider wearable, so at one point you might want to get new one and see if it will make a change.
If you see any oil residue around pilot bushing, or at wire harness in electronic coffin, do new bushing ASAP
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A gaggle of MB's
Check forum for ECU/tranny reset - just 4 minutes to do - EZ - restores agressive factory defaults.
Good tip in the plugs - no pun - you can pull one and check condition - OE replacement Bosch 7422 if I recall correctly.
If it was me - I would also do a "Italian cleanup" on the injection side - replace fuel filter - Bosch or Mann only not China knockoff - and use a good fuel system/injection cleaner Stabil Marine 22239 avail in UK - 1/2 bottle after fresh filter - another 1/2 bottle 5K miles later.
Fresh air filter - Mann/Bosch/Hengst
If MAF is/was going too far off spec - then coming to a braked stop the engine RPM's will "drop" below idle - almost a "choking" feeling - then appear to catch itself to jump up a bit above normal idle - then at that braked stop kindof "surge/search" between idle too high - then drop too low - over around a 150-250 RPM range
Keep the beat mate !
Good tip in the plugs - no pun - you can pull one and check condition - OE replacement Bosch 7422 if I recall correctly.
If it was me - I would also do a "Italian cleanup" on the injection side - replace fuel filter - Bosch or Mann only not China knockoff - and use a good fuel system/injection cleaner Stabil Marine 22239 avail in UK - 1/2 bottle after fresh filter - another 1/2 bottle 5K miles later.
Fresh air filter - Mann/Bosch/Hengst
If MAF is/was going too far off spec - then coming to a braked stop the engine RPM's will "drop" below idle - almost a "choking" feeling - then appear to catch itself to jump up a bit above normal idle - then at that braked stop kindof "surge/search" between idle too high - then drop too low - over around a 150-250 RPM range
Keep the beat mate !
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 205
Likes: 1
From: NC from OH thru VA
87 190e 2.3-16v Cosworth; 2000 E320 Saloon
Start with checking the codes and pulling the plug.
I bought our wagon close to 150k and having some records, I assumed plugs have been replaced.
But at 160k I was doing breather seal and pulled the plugs. THEY WERE ORIGINALS.
Funny new plugs did not change the performance, nor mpg.
Anyway, MAF on those cars can be consider wearable, so at one point you might want to get new one and see if it will make a change.
If you see any oil residue around pilot bushing, or at wire harness in electronic coffin, do new bushing ASAP
I bought our wagon close to 150k and having some records, I assumed plugs have been replaced.
But at 160k I was doing breather seal and pulled the plugs. THEY WERE ORIGINALS.
Funny new plugs did not change the performance, nor mpg.
Anyway, MAF on those cars can be consider wearable, so at one point you might want to get new one and see if it will make a change.
If you see any oil residue around pilot bushing, or at wire harness in electronic coffin, do new bushing ASAP
Check forum for ECU/tranny reset - just 4 minutes to do - EZ - restores agressive factory defaults.
Good tip in the plugs - no pun - you can pull one and check condition - OE replacement Bosch 7422 if I recall correctly.
If it was me - I would also do a "Italian cleanup" on the injection side - replace fuel filter - Bosch or Mann only not China knockoff - and use a good fuel system/injection cleaner Stabil Marine 22239 avail in UK - 1/2 bottle after fresh filter - another 1/2 bottle 5K miles later.
Fresh air filter - Mann/Bosch/Hengst
If MAF is/was going too far off spec - then coming to a braked stop the engine RPM's will "drop" below idle - almost a "choking" feeling - then appear to catch itself to jump up a bit above normal idle - then at that braked stop kindof "surge/search" between idle too high - then drop too low - over around a 150-250 RPM range
Keep the beat mate !
Good tip in the plugs - no pun - you can pull one and check condition - OE replacement Bosch 7422 if I recall correctly.
If it was me - I would also do a "Italian cleanup" on the injection side - replace fuel filter - Bosch or Mann only not China knockoff - and use a good fuel system/injection cleaner Stabil Marine 22239 avail in UK - 1/2 bottle after fresh filter - another 1/2 bottle 5K miles later.
Fresh air filter - Mann/Bosch/Hengst
If MAF is/was going too far off spec - then coming to a braked stop the engine RPM's will "drop" below idle - almost a "choking" feeling - then appear to catch itself to jump up a bit above normal idle - then at that braked stop kindof "surge/search" between idle too high - then drop too low - over around a 150-250 RPM range
Keep the beat mate !
