E-Class (W210) 1995-2002: E 200, E 220D, E 240, E 290TD, E 300TD, E 200, E 240, E 280, E 320, E 420, E 430 (Wagon, Touring, 4Matic)

1999 E300 Fuel Economy

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Old 09-13-2017, 11:16 PM
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83 300D 617T(retired), 96 E300 606n/a(retired), 99 E300 606T(retired), 07 E320 BT, 14 E3504M
1999 E300 Fuel Economy

Hello, all! This is my first post on this forum. I rarely use these.. so please forgive me as I try to cope with the learning curve on here.

I have a question for anyone out there who owns or who has owned an E300 TD.. what kind of fuel economy do you or did you achieve? At best, I'm only getting numbers in the upper 20's. The previous family member that owned this car said he routinely could get 33-36 on the highway.

This isn't a driving style issue, as I can easily get 40 MPG out of my W211.

Any help/ideas would be greatly appreciated!

Thank you.
Old 09-15-2017, 12:35 PM
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
First bare in mind the fuel quality can easy change mpg by 10-15%.
Averaging 80 mph, my E300DT was making 30 mpg before bio era and 28 mpg on California mixtures sold as diesel fuel.
Yes, the driving style does make huge difference.
I can get anything between 7 and 70 mpg from those cars. All depends how much time you take to get there.
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Old 09-22-2017, 11:18 AM
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83 300D 617T(retired), 96 E300 606n/a(retired), 99 E300 606T(retired), 07 E320 BT, 14 E3504M
My driving style in the E300 is rather quite relaxed, so that's not the issue... also, no biofuels here; only 100% #2. I have been trying a few fuel additives lately to see if I experience any difference. So far, negligible differences at best with Diesel Kleen, Lucas, Hot Shot Secret. Next up is Stanodyne.

Thanks for your reply, though!
Old 09-22-2017, 01:18 PM
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
You might want to read the label on the pump, or ask station attendant about fuel formula.
They have obligation to post it somewhere, but obviously don't want to make it too visible.
To my knowledge no state has 100% diesel anymore and the only difference is the percentage, with Michigan and I think Illinois having 20% of bio, what generates problem with newer MB diesels.
You are not saying what is the mileage on E300DT, but with the age alone - rebuilding the injectors might be good idea.
In the past I was able to buy tips only, what was cheap rebuild, but those are getting harder and harder to buy, while set of new injectors can exceed car value.
Still if you find local diesel shop that still knows the trade, they should be able to spray-test the injectors.
Old 09-22-2017, 02:33 PM
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83 300D 617T(retired), 96 E300 606n/a(retired), 99 E300 606T(retired), 07 E320 BT, 14 E3504M
We just recently got some of our first "E85" pumps here in West Virginia. We are way behind the times.. especially when it comes to diesel. Most station attendants say it's 100% #2.. and starting in November its a mix of 1/2 (not sure of the ratios for winter blends).

Mileage-wise, it's sitting at 242,000. I use it for commuting between Charleston and Morgantown (about 160 miles) so as to keep the miles off the rest of my fleet.

I'm also sure you're right about the injectors. We have a Bosch shop around here I might have to visit.. I certainly can't tell you the last time they were serviced, as it's been ages ago. Might also solve the obnoxiously loud idling?

Anyways, I've never maintained my own Mercedes.. I've always been to the dealer or gone through warranty stuff.. my 210 is just getting to the point where it doesn't make economic sense and I would like to start doing some of the stuff myself (kinda why I ended up on here).

Anyways, thank you again for your input.

Cheers!
Old 09-22-2017, 04:16 PM
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
The 606 turbo diesels prove themselves to be last workhorses who can run long without spending much money.
In my native Poland one of the cabbies sold W211 320cdi and bought again E300DT as slightly better mpg in newer diesel did not offset other costs.
So if you still like the car, I would not hesitate to put some money in it as it will go long way.
One thing you can easy do is diesel purge.
Not too many mechanics will want to do it, but buy Liquid-Molly stuff, disconnect fuel hoses at the firewall and do the real purge.
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