r0gue

Hi everyone. I'm back in the club so to speak, having not had a Benz since my W126 380se. My new-to-me 1998 e430 (90,000 miles) comes as a one-owner, never-seen-a-snowflake example, yet unfortunately, there are many services that are needed before I can feel better.

My plans are: All fluids of every type and each and every filter, along with plugs and shocks. I'll also seek to do some cosmetic work on the headlight lenses and dash cracks, paint polishing etc. -- Please feel free to add any recommendations that are a good idea in your estimation for a car of this age and history.

For my first job (after cabin filters) I'll be seeking to do the transmission fluid change with filter, gasket and electrical connector. I'm buying the evacuator and doing it similar to Diesel Mechanic on YouTube with multiple exchanges of what I expect will be 3 or 4 liters each. I'm buying 15 liters of fluid (001-989-68-03-13-M22) for my supply purchase.

MY QUESTION: If I drain the torque converter , and fill it through the dipstick, will I be able to get the quantity of fluid that comes out of the pan, and the quantity out of the TC all in the same fill, or will I need to run it a bit to get some fluid back into the TC? Is there any trick to this? Any cautions for draining the TC? I understand I need to turn the engine on the front nut using a ratchet and only clockwise. This is a first for me. Little bit nervous.

Thank you for helping with your knowledge!
-- r0gue

raymond g-

perhaps this may help a little

https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...uid_Change.htm

i've not had to change my transmission fluid because I bought it used and it still had extended
warranty ... which took care of the a TCU fluid drip so Seattle Mercedes simply did the whole
thing, added harmonic balancer recall service as well as the AT fluid change (at 50k). so I'm
good for a while

kajtek1

Per my experience - wiping the bottom of transmission pan is the most important part of service as that is where lot of sediments sit.
So my recommendation is to drop the pan, open converter plug and leave it overnight for dripping.
I always try to catch the oil and measure it (pouring to 1 gal bottles for recycling) to have starting point on refill, but you can find system capacity in manual. Always start low.
The pilot bushing replacement become advised with ANY transmission service. The $10 expense can save lot of greed down the road.

r0gue

Is that the electrical connector coupling replacement? I am planning that, if so. But I hadn't heard it called pilot bushing, so I thought I should double check in case I'm missing another part replacement. I'm replacing this:

Adapter Plug With O-Rings - Transmission Cable to Conductor Plate
Part #: 203-540-02-53-MBZ

Is that called a Pilot Bushing too?

kajtek1

Yeah, That is the part and best prices for MB (Made in Czech Republic) part are on amazon.
The part goes by several names, but EPC calls it pilot bushing, what we figured out is lost translation from German.

Plutoe

You want to be extremely careful when accomplishing the plug change----if it is not leaking now forget it as more folks than not brake a pin or over torque the screw and then guess what happens. Plus I sure hope you will do this on a lift vs the front yard or curb!!

r0gue

Actually I'd planned to use ramps. I don't have access to a lift. Bad idea?

kajtek1

Some "Mechanics" try to do whole service by striking keyboard, while in real life you have to get your hands dirty.
I worked with ramps most of my life and recall about 6 pilot bushings replaced that way.
Not the most comfortable but doable. Get some planks to drive rear wheels on.
Good part of doing pilot bushing alone on ramps is, that only a cup of ATF will drip.

illest

Ramp are fine. I did mine a few weeks ago with just jack stands. Make sure you have the right dip stick to measure the level after the refill.