E430 Suspension Options
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 14
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2012 E350 | 2001 E430 (RIP) | 1997 M3
E430 Suspension Options
Hi all! This summer, I'm hoping to lower my E430 a bit - not slammed, but definitely lower than stock. I'm not interested in building a track car, but I'd love to have my normal street use driver sit a little lower. I've been doing some research on YouTube and this forum, and have found some pretty varying options.
Basically, I'm looking to drop the car between 1-1.5 inches. Some threads have suggested changing the pads out, but it seems like that wouldn't quite get me as low as I want it to be. I found this Koni/Eibach setup, but I'm not sure as to how it'd work in the car. It appears that the suspension uses separate springs and shocks, so would this kit be placed in the spot of the shock and the spring area would be empty?
Additionally, would you all suggest that kit or these Bilstein B6 shocks with H&R Sport Springs?
If I were to get this setup, would it also simply "plug in" to the shock area?
These pairings aren't set in stone, and I could totally run Konis/H&R or Bilstein/Eibach if you believe one of those setups would work better.
Would any of these setups require a fender roll? I've read that any lowering around an inch shouldn't require camber plates or a fender roll, but I'd like to make sure so that I don't end up with a car that I can't drive until I put more money into parts.
Although I've been researching a bit, my knowledge is extremely limited in this area as I haven't done much to my cars other than interior bits and small jobs. I really appreciate any insight, thanks in advance guys!
Basically, I'm looking to drop the car between 1-1.5 inches. Some threads have suggested changing the pads out, but it seems like that wouldn't quite get me as low as I want it to be. I found this Koni/Eibach setup, but I'm not sure as to how it'd work in the car. It appears that the suspension uses separate springs and shocks, so would this kit be placed in the spot of the shock and the spring area would be empty?
Additionally, would you all suggest that kit or these Bilstein B6 shocks with H&R Sport Springs?
If I were to get this setup, would it also simply "plug in" to the shock area?
These pairings aren't set in stone, and I could totally run Konis/H&R or Bilstein/Eibach if you believe one of those setups would work better.
Would any of these setups require a fender roll? I've read that any lowering around an inch shouldn't require camber plates or a fender roll, but I'd like to make sure so that I don't end up with a car that I can't drive until I put more money into parts.
Although I've been researching a bit, my knowledge is extremely limited in this area as I haven't done much to my cars other than interior bits and small jobs. I really appreciate any insight, thanks in advance guys!
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 1,456
Likes: 140
From: Westcoast/Interior
02w163ML500 / 97w210E50AMG / 99w202C230k / 95w124500e-wip
Shocks and springs are separate on the w210s, except for the 4matic if I recall (correct me if Im wrong please) so the eibach/koni setup you linked to wont work.
Your Bilstein B6 choice and H&R Sport springs are fine. Also, check your present spring pad setup for front and back - look to see/feel what pad# they are (ie. 1,2,3,4, or 5 - dimples on the edge of the spring pads along the underside edges. Changing the pads to a lower value does assist in dropping/lowering a car. Se what pads you presently have, they may not need to be changed out.
Any more than 1.5" drop and you will need to adjust the camber. Re-alignment would be recommended after the springs and shock settle in.
A fender roll would be required IF you are going with WIDER Wheel/ Tire combination and larger diameter wheels (ie.17" up to 18" as an example). The only w210s that came with rolled fenders were the amg models (at least I havent seen other models with oem rolled wheel well fenders.)
If you go with larger wheels, make sure they have the same (or very close to) rolling radius as the original oem setup.
Your Bilstein B6 choice and H&R Sport springs are fine. Also, check your present spring pad setup for front and back - look to see/feel what pad# they are (ie. 1,2,3,4, or 5 - dimples on the edge of the spring pads along the underside edges. Changing the pads to a lower value does assist in dropping/lowering a car. Se what pads you presently have, they may not need to be changed out.
Any more than 1.5" drop and you will need to adjust the camber. Re-alignment would be recommended after the springs and shock settle in.
A fender roll would be required IF you are going with WIDER Wheel/ Tire combination and larger diameter wheels (ie.17" up to 18" as an example). The only w210s that came with rolled fenders were the amg models (at least I havent seen other models with oem rolled wheel well fenders.)
If you go with larger wheels, make sure they have the same (or very close to) rolling radius as the original oem setup.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 5,939
Likes: 178
From: Seattle WA
99 E320
some light reading for you as you move towards your lowing project
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...right-way.html
you need to ask yourself the basis for lowering the suspension and proceed in selecting components
suitable for the project. aesthetics? lower center of gravity? slalom?
also, each person has their own subjective sense of what a 'good ride' means. so it's like choosing
underwear. it can be challenging for someone else to identify the parts you need unless you've had
a chance to itemize your specifications first....and your willingness to accept the non-standard ride
once you alter MB's specs.
i was willing to forego the cushy ride and body roll .....in favor of a firm ride and minimum body roll.
I also did not want a 'slammed' ride.
i experimented with OEM springs, altered OEM springs, variety of spring pads, Vogtland springs,
Koni adjustable shocks....before settling on Eibach progressive springs and Bilstein HD/Sport shocks.
This circuitous route took me about 2.5 yrs.of trial and error. ...and got pretty good pulling and
replacing spring pads and springs with no power tools. Glad I'm done with this project.
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...right-way.html
you need to ask yourself the basis for lowering the suspension and proceed in selecting components
suitable for the project. aesthetics? lower center of gravity? slalom?
also, each person has their own subjective sense of what a 'good ride' means. so it's like choosing
underwear. it can be challenging for someone else to identify the parts you need unless you've had
a chance to itemize your specifications first....and your willingness to accept the non-standard ride
once you alter MB's specs.
i was willing to forego the cushy ride and body roll .....in favor of a firm ride and minimum body roll.
I also did not want a 'slammed' ride.
i experimented with OEM springs, altered OEM springs, variety of spring pads, Vogtland springs,
Koni adjustable shocks....before settling on Eibach progressive springs and Bilstein HD/Sport shocks.
This circuitous route took me about 2.5 yrs.of trial and error. ...and got pretty good pulling and
replacing spring pads and springs with no power tools. Glad I'm done with this project.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
2012 E350 | 2001 E430 (RIP) | 1997 M3
Thank you for the advice!
I've read the thread a few times over now, but just wanted to make sure I read things right. It makes sense that dialing in the suspension is a project in itself!
I'm mostly hoping for aesthetics, and a firm ride would be an added bonus.
I've read the thread a few times over now, but just wanted to make sure I read things right. It makes sense that dialing in the suspension is a project in itself!
I'm mostly hoping for aesthetics, and a firm ride would be an added bonus.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 5,939
Likes: 178
From: Seattle WA
99 E320
yeah, if you're lowering, what is inherent with the modification is a firmer ride as you can't decrease
the travel and still have the shock and spring travel needed to cushion the ride under realistic
urban conditions. if the pavement is rough or not maintained, I need to slow down so as not to
bottom the suspension. but 90% of the time (Seattle area freeway and arterials) it rides well,
on the firm side, but well damped (both compression as well as rebound) by the more robust
valving of the Bilstein HD/Sport shocks. As mentioned, I tried the Koni yellow tube adjustable
shocks but even the firmest dampening was not good enough so I swapped for the Bilstein.HD
the travel and still have the shock and spring travel needed to cushion the ride under realistic
urban conditions. if the pavement is rough or not maintained, I need to slow down so as not to
bottom the suspension. but 90% of the time (Seattle area freeway and arterials) it rides well,
on the firm side, but well damped (both compression as well as rebound) by the more robust
valving of the Bilstein HD/Sport shocks. As mentioned, I tried the Koni yellow tube adjustable
shocks but even the firmest dampening was not good enough so I swapped for the Bilstein.HD
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 3,249
Likes: 257
From: Richmond, CA
2001 E320 Wagon, 2006 LBZ Silverado, 2007 E63 (sold), 2001 E55 (sold)
A fender roll would be required IF you are going with WIDER Wheel/ Tire combination and larger diameter wheels (ie.17" up to 18" as an example). The only w210s that came with rolled fenders were the amg models (at least I havent seen other models with oem rolled wheel well fenders.)
If you go with larger wheels, make sure they have the same (or very close to) rolling radius as the original oem setup.
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Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 66
Likes: 6
From: Northern IL
1998 MB E430
Went with the HR springs on my sons 98 E430. Lowered it approx. 1.5 inches. He still has the factory 16" wheels with a lower profile and wider tire. It looks and rides nice. Eventually he wants a set of 18`s to finish off the look. Not sure if I have a current pic of it lowered.
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