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Window Regulator

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Old 06-12-2019, 07:21 PM
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2002 Mercedes Benz E320 W210
Window Regulator

Hey all, I have to replace my rear drivers side Window Regulator. Does anyone know what size rivets are needed to replace the ones I drill out?
Old 06-12-2019, 08:00 PM
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Nevermind. Found them. 4.8 X 8MM rivets are needed for the Window Regulator. If anyone else needs the info. Here it is.
Old 06-12-2019, 09:45 PM
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observation: the rear window regulator's design is faulty resulting in higher instances of failure (one of
those "not if....but when...." situations. sure, you can use rivets but there isn't any reason that I can
think of why you couldn't just insert machine screws instead, either. makes it easier to repair the
next time they go out.
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Old 06-12-2019, 10:31 PM
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Yeah, I noticed someone was already in there and replaced the motor before. I went to roll the window down and it wouldn't go back up but heard the motor trying to roll it up. Got in there and the cable went. So I'm thinking you are correct. Why not use machine screws?
Old 06-12-2019, 10:54 PM
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I also need to replace passenger side. Just been lazy LOL
Old 06-12-2019, 11:15 PM
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p.s. given the movement of the parts, it would be a good thing to put loctite blue (easily removable when heated) on the screw threads before assembly.

more often than not, it is the white plastic rectangular piece fractures, so the tensioned cable SPRONGS and turns itself into a rat's next. it us usually made worse when the occupant cycles the window again (and again) trying to get the window to work

https://www.benzworld.org/forums/2554924-post37.html
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Old 06-13-2019, 02:57 PM
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Per my experience it is not the design, but cheaper material used.
The exact same window sliding system was used on earlier MB models, who did not have revolution counters and who pushed the sliders till the motor would not push it anymore.
The same sliders were not problem in those cars and my 1999 MB was driving with slider removed from 1987 model.
By now you can lot of aftermarket supply sliders only as cheap as $5 a piece.
One of those rare situations where aftermarket part can beat MB part.
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Old 06-15-2019, 05:00 PM
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I paid 16.08 for the regulator and 4 or 5 bucks for the blue loctite. I'm going to use small flat head machine screws so it stays as flush as possible with the door so there are no problems with getting the panel back on.
Old 06-15-2019, 05:02 PM
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It wasnt expensive at all, and easy to replace. I have a good plastic molding and trim remover kit I purchased a while back. I'll let you guys know how everything turns out. I should have the regulator mid week.
Old 06-17-2019, 01:50 PM
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My son is going on his 3rd one. First was a cheap second was a bit more pricey. This next one is going to be another cheaply! And I use nuts and bolts. Makes the job much easier after the first repair.
Like was said, not if but when!
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Old 06-17-2019, 02:18 PM
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Nut, bolt, lockwasher, blue loctite sounds like a great recipe for the fix. What size bolts and nuts did you use?
Old 06-17-2019, 02:19 PM
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anecdotal: normally, when we close a window, we press the button and hold it there (or express OFF) until the
window is fully closed. since the window pressure is quite strong, I wondered whether this force contributes to
the fracturing of the plastic window part which frequently fractures. so what I have been doing on my own car
(one out of 4 E320s in the family) is to fully close the window, then 'blip' the switch to open...to minimize the
pressure on the regulator.

again, anecdotal,....but my car has not had to have any of the rear window regulators replace yet...whereas they
have on two of the other E320s which the rest of the family uses

lord knows if my little OCD action has any merit
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Old 06-17-2019, 02:21 PM
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When I get this thing apart I'm going to take a bunch of pictures Ray. I think you are on to something here.
Old 06-17-2019, 03:05 PM
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nuts, washers, bolts - for me, it was whatever I had in that was in the large coffee can of loose parts growing in my garage.
after decades of accumulation I didn't have to buy anything but time was needed to match threading and shank diameter.
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