Window Regulator
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Window Regulator
Hey all, I have to replace my rear drivers side Window Regulator. Does anyone know what size rivets are needed to replace the ones I drill out?
#3
MBWorld Fanatic!
observation: the rear window regulator's design is faulty resulting in higher instances of failure (one of
those "not if....but when...." situations. sure, you can use rivets but there isn't any reason that I can
think of why you couldn't just insert machine screws instead, either. makes it easier to repair the
next time they go out.
those "not if....but when...." situations. sure, you can use rivets but there isn't any reason that I can
think of why you couldn't just insert machine screws instead, either. makes it easier to repair the
next time they go out.
The following users liked this post:
LovemyE320 (06-12-2019)
#4
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Yeah, I noticed someone was already in there and replaced the motor before. I went to roll the window down and it wouldn't go back up but heard the motor trying to roll it up. Got in there and the cable went. So I'm thinking you are correct. Why not use machine screws?
#6
MBWorld Fanatic!
p.s. given the movement of the parts, it would be a good thing to put loctite blue (easily removable when heated) on the screw threads before assembly.
more often than not, it is the white plastic rectangular piece fractures, so the tensioned cable SPRONGS and turns itself into a rat's next. it us usually made worse when the occupant cycles the window again (and again) trying to get the window to work
https://www.benzworld.org/forums/2554924-post37.html
more often than not, it is the white plastic rectangular piece fractures, so the tensioned cable SPRONGS and turns itself into a rat's next. it us usually made worse when the occupant cycles the window again (and again) trying to get the window to work
https://www.benzworld.org/forums/2554924-post37.html
The following users liked this post:
LovemyE320 (06-15-2019)
#7
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: V E G A S
Posts: 9,114
Received 1,749 Likes
on
1,394 Posts
1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
Per my experience it is not the design, but cheaper material used.
The exact same window sliding system was used on earlier MB models, who did not have revolution counters and who pushed the sliders till the motor would not push it anymore.
The same sliders were not problem in those cars and my 1999 MB was driving with slider removed from 1987 model.
By now you can lot of aftermarket supply sliders only as cheap as $5 a piece.
One of those rare situations where aftermarket part can beat MB part.
The exact same window sliding system was used on earlier MB models, who did not have revolution counters and who pushed the sliders till the motor would not push it anymore.
The same sliders were not problem in those cars and my 1999 MB was driving with slider removed from 1987 model.
By now you can lot of aftermarket supply sliders only as cheap as $5 a piece.
One of those rare situations where aftermarket part can beat MB part.
The following users liked this post:
LovemyE320 (06-15-2019)
Trending Topics
#8
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I paid 16.08 for the regulator and 4 or 5 bucks for the blue loctite. I'm going to use small flat head machine screws so it stays as flush as possible with the door so there are no problems with getting the panel back on.
#9
Junior Member
Thread Starter
It wasnt expensive at all, and easy to replace. I have a good plastic molding and trim remover kit I purchased a while back. I'll let you guys know how everything turns out. I should have the regulator mid week.
#10
Junior Member
My son is going on his 3rd one. First was a cheap second was a bit more pricey. This next one is going to be another cheaply! And I use nuts and bolts. Makes the job much easier after the first repair.
Like was said, not if but when!
Like was said, not if but when!
The following users liked this post:
LovemyE320 (06-17-2019)
#12
MBWorld Fanatic!
anecdotal: normally, when we close a window, we press the button and hold it there (or express OFF) until the
window is fully closed. since the window pressure is quite strong, I wondered whether this force contributes to
the fracturing of the plastic window part which frequently fractures. so what I have been doing on my own car
(one out of 4 E320s in the family) is to fully close the window, then 'blip' the switch to open...to minimize the
pressure on the regulator.
again, anecdotal,....but my car has not had to have any of the rear window regulators replace yet...whereas they
have on two of the other E320s which the rest of the family uses
lord knows if my little OCD action has any merit
window is fully closed. since the window pressure is quite strong, I wondered whether this force contributes to
the fracturing of the plastic window part which frequently fractures. so what I have been doing on my own car
(one out of 4 E320s in the family) is to fully close the window, then 'blip' the switch to open...to minimize the
pressure on the regulator.
again, anecdotal,....but my car has not had to have any of the rear window regulators replace yet...whereas they
have on two of the other E320s which the rest of the family uses
lord knows if my little OCD action has any merit
The following users liked this post:
LovemyE320 (06-17-2019)
#14
MBWorld Fanatic!
nuts, washers, bolts - for me, it was whatever I had in that was in the large coffee can of loose parts growing in my garage.
after decades of accumulation I didn't have to buy anything but time was needed to match threading and shank diameter.
after decades of accumulation I didn't have to buy anything but time was needed to match threading and shank diameter.
The following users liked this post:
LovemyE320 (06-18-2019)