ozmbguy

Hello one & all...

My first post in the 210 section. I've been an owner of a 2WD E430 with 300+k's for quite a few months now. I scored it cheap in an online auction & it's had a few....erm....issues.

Without being too long winded, Ive replaced the;

- Driveshafts
- Rear ARB links
- Front ARB links & D bushes
- Rear Flex disc
- Rear brake lines
- Cam cover gaskets
- Rear wheel bearings
- PCV hose

To do list that remains:

- Front disc rotors & pads (ATE 4 piston optioned are hard to find)
- Crank pulley is wobbly
- Water pump pulley is possibly wobbly & crap
- Leak out of Oil level sensor (new sensor required)
- 722.6 service
- Smells of fuel around the filter area
- Rear twitches over bumps in a VERY frightening way (Im guessing shocks & springs)
- Appears to be leaking out the rear main seal and/or torque converter
- Scraping noise when moving that I'm guessing is heatshield contact with the Propshaft after my attempt at doing the flex disc (but could be something else)

- The stupid SRS warning light which I'm guessing is caused by the severed electrical connection I found on the drivers seat (which since has been repaired). And I am still still getting ABS BAS warnings on the dash upon startup that goes away when I turn the steering wheel.


Basically I want some encouragement from complete strangers to see this car to the end. It's been a thorough nightmare. But I love this Thunderbucket a lot more than I should.....

bbirdwell

Hang in there, keep plugging away, and you'll get it done!
Rear shocks are not particularly difficult to replace and by now, if they are original, they are most certainly worn out and their bushings are shot. When you change the front shocks you'll need a crowfoot wrench to remove the nut from the top mount of the shock absorber as the head of the shock absorber shaft is down inside a recessed area where you cannot get a standard box end or open end wrench.
Once the SRS gets a fault, even when the problem is corrected you must use STAR to clear the error code and warning light. The same thing applies if you get a hard transmission fault, you can only clear it using STAR after you repair the problem. After clearing the fault code the transmission will then shift normally. Until you clear the code it will remain locked in second gear (a "fail safe" mode to enable you to get the car to a safe area if this occurs on the road).
Lots and lots more, just begin searching using the threads/advanced feature in the upper right of the screen. You will learn an amazing amount just reading the posts in the threads even if not directly applicable to the issue you are researching.

davmil2002

Rear seal on mine leaks as well. Repair Quotes are all big $$ and it only drips 1 quart between changes - I can buy a lot of oil for that. Valve cover has a small leak too and that one drips on the header stinking up the place - again, not that much or often. I'll wait until it needs plugs as I've read the valve covers have to come off to access the spark plugs..(?true).

loden338

You may want to consider buying a code reader for your car. It will require a 38 pin connector for the under-hood connection. The Foxwell NT530 is a good one, allows you to clear trans codes as well.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/183867873537