2001 e320 4matic wagon self leveling help
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Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 181
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From: New Mexico
2001 E320 4Matic
2001 e320 4matic wagon self leveling help
Hey everyone, new self leveling valve put into the wagon along with replacing half the hydraulic lines to the valve. Problem though after hooking everything up and turning on the car for 60 seconds with the valve set to 'F' (fill) there was no whining sound. After turning the car off, I heard fluid moving and found hydraulic fluid pouring from the front of the car under the drivers side. I'm assuming I mixed up my lines here by accident, (tank link/pump line T/P) can't think of why fluid would be sucking from the tank and pouring out the front? I sure hope I didn't break anything else. If anyone knows anything let me know, otherwise tomorrow I'll switch the lines and see what happens.
Last edited by CanuckMerc; Jan 8, 2022 at 06:38 PM.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 181
Likes: 13
From: New Mexico
2001 E320 4Matic
Ok update here. Switched the lines T/P lines where they were both cut and the same thing happened with the car started. It's pumping out fluid from the tank and not getting back to the tank, pouring under the drivers front. The car is already on jack stands with my jack lift supporting the rear axle carrier and back end awaiting having carrier arms attached so it looks like i'm headed into the city for another set of jack stands to get the front up and me underneath.
My best guess at this point is the T/P lines were mixed up and pressure caused as breach at the weakest point. This theory works if you consider the switch of the lines this morning having the same effect. We'll see what we see when we see it. Later.
My best guess at this point is the T/P lines were mixed up and pressure caused as breach at the weakest point. This theory works if you consider the switch of the lines this morning having the same effect. We'll see what we see when we see it. Later.
Member
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 98
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From: Northeast PA
W220, R170, XU70
You probably have another line that has rusted through. The line from the reservoir runs in the left front wheel well (under the plastic fender liner) and then back to the fuel filter area. A leak towards the rear of the front wheel well will show up under the drivers area.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 181
Likes: 13
From: New Mexico
2001 E320 4Matic
Just reread everything here you printed. So from your description the line from the tank runs through the drivers side front wheel well and then back to the fuel filter area....which is the the line configuration I had originally.
Why would there have been a catastrophic blow out? Keeping in mind there was no problem with the original valve and lines (they were replaced because I mucked the rear axle job up). The filter inside the tank also came off. That would have taken a lot of pressure inside the tank to push that up and turn it so it seemed to me that the lines were wrong and I was pressuring the reservoir tank?
Really confused here now. And I went and switched the lines yesterday. Not sure how to proceed now.
Why would there have been a catastrophic blow out? Keeping in mind there was no problem with the original valve and lines (they were replaced because I mucked the rear axle job up). The filter inside the tank also came off. That would have taken a lot of pressure inside the tank to push that up and turn it so it seemed to me that the lines were wrong and I was pressuring the reservoir tank?
Really confused here now. And I went and switched the lines yesterday. Not sure how to proceed now.
Last edited by CanuckMerc; Jan 10, 2022 at 08:35 AM.
Member
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 98
Likes: 7
From: Northeast PA
W220, R170, XU70
On my car, I had lines that leaked from corrosion (probably caused by road salt). The plastic fender lining tends to trap moisture causing accelerated corrosion (at least that is what happened in my case).
If you have fluid anywhere inside the wheel well or dripping from just behind the left front wheel (behind the jacking point area) you need to remove the fender liner and look. Removal is easy - just some plastic nuts (10mm as I recall). I've attached the tube diagrams for the wagon.
If you have fluid anywhere inside the wheel well or dripping from just behind the left front wheel (behind the jacking point area) you need to remove the fender liner and look. Removal is easy - just some plastic nuts (10mm as I recall). I've attached the tube diagrams for the wagon.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 181
Likes: 13
From: New Mexico
2001 E320 4Matic
I appreciate those pdf links thank you! I do have the MB EPC I bought on Ebay and it's been more than handy especially in respect to parts lists. I've rebuilt the entire SLS system valve and lines, spheres but this problem is sudden and unexpected, there were no SLS line issues prior to me jacking this car up to replace the rear wheel carriers, frame mounts, spheres and few other parts.
And this isn't a leak. This is a catastrophic blowout of fluid pouring down into the underside front plastic shroud at the front of the car. It empties the tank as the car is running in seconds.
And this isn't a leak. This is a catastrophic blowout of fluid pouring down into the underside front plastic shroud at the front of the car. It empties the tank as the car is running in seconds.
Member
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 98
Likes: 7
From: Northeast PA
W220, R170, XU70
That is a leak. You can have a pin hole leak that will drip slowly, or you can have a larger break that will pump fluid out until the reservoir is empty. You can’t drive it like that because you’ll run the pump dry and then you’ll also need to replace the pump. I had 2 larger leaks and both were in the left front wheel well area. I also had smaller leaks towards the rear. Pennsylvania road salt rusted my lines and the rest of the car. You can buy a spool of line and fittings from parts houses to replace sections. You also may need a tool to make flange fittings depending on what is being replaced. Mercedes used to carry the lines but I don’t know if they still do.
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Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 181
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From: New Mexico
2001 E320 4Matic
Yes I understand leaks and I appreciate your input thank you. What I'm saying is I don't understand how that could have happened. The vehicle has been up on blocks for 3 months with the rear being restored. There was no hydraulic issue to begin with and the lines are all still powder coated and in great shape ( had to cut two to splice and bubble flare ). I just don't get why all of a sudden, right after I replace everything on the back end (valve/lines/spheres) why I'd have a sudden catastrophic blowout in the front of the car. Coincidence? I guess it's possible and I'm not sure why I'm compelled to believe it's something to do with me making a mistake but that's the first instinct here. What did I do wrong?
Anyhow the back is already up on jacks, I'll remove the front tires and put it up on jacks and remove that undershroud where it was pouring out of and see what I see and then report back.
Anyhow the back is already up on jacks, I'll remove the front tires and put it up on jacks and remove that undershroud where it was pouring out of and see what I see and then report back.
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Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 181
Likes: 13
From: New Mexico
2001 E320 4Matic
Alright that was a hairy experience. My parking area is all gravel not a concrete pad and unfortunately the car slipped as I tried to jack the front end. So that took a while to life the back end of a fallen wagon off the ground and get back on jack stands. I am not crawling under the front end with that jacked up and the back end jacked up, no sir, not going to do it.
Change of plan. Finish the rear, fasten the lines, put the new wheel carriers on and put the wheel hubs back, tires on. Then we'll jack up the front end and see what's going on. I did notice that the front of the drivers side wheel well had a hydraulic stain so this should be an easy fix. Once again though, I'm baffled why this would have just gone and let go. All I can come up with is pressure variance? This is the third valve to go in the car because the first two got mucked up so perhaps with the 1st, 2nd and 3rd attempts to get the system going the pressurization and depressurization caused it? Weird.
Change of plan. Finish the rear, fasten the lines, put the new wheel carriers on and put the wheel hubs back, tires on. Then we'll jack up the front end and see what's going on. I did notice that the front of the drivers side wheel well had a hydraulic stain so this should be an easy fix. Once again though, I'm baffled why this would have just gone and let go. All I can come up with is pressure variance? This is the third valve to go in the car because the first two got mucked up so perhaps with the 1st, 2nd and 3rd attempts to get the system going the pressurization and depressurization caused it? Weird.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 181
Likes: 13
From: New Mexico
2001 E320 4Matic
Ok update here:
Got under the car again and paint marked the lines (why I didn't do this to begin with...making so many mistakes on this job) and found that they were NOT hooked up correctly the first time. (line to tank/line to pump). That incident was 60 seconds long but long enough some damage was done to the underside of the tank itself, small leak there now. It also popped the filter off inside.
Like mentioned before, I'll finish the rear overhaul and get the backside of the wagon off jacks before I try jacking and removing the front drivers wheel. Something tells me it's a small repair. Will update when I get there.
Got under the car again and paint marked the lines (why I didn't do this to begin with...making so many mistakes on this job) and found that they were NOT hooked up correctly the first time. (line to tank/line to pump). That incident was 60 seconds long but long enough some damage was done to the underside of the tank itself, small leak there now. It also popped the filter off inside.
Like mentioned before, I'll finish the rear overhaul and get the backside of the wagon off jacks before I try jacking and removing the front drivers wheel. Something tells me it's a small repair. Will update when I get there.
