I went to Mobil service for the first time to do an Oil Change. At the dealership, I would get 10k + plus some extra miles to an oil change. At the mobil I did a Mobil 1 synthetic oil change and they told me I would have to return every 5 thousand miles for another oil change. However, before I reset my FSS, it resetted itself and it indicates that i would have to go back to the dealer in about 3000 miles.
My concern is, does this mean that the oil that was put is not as good as from the dealer? Also did my FSS compute the life of the oil correctly? Should I reset my FSS now? Should I change the oil every 5k miles? Is there better oil than mobil 1? castrol?

 

Just reset the FSS and it should take care of it. It likely did compute the oil wrong.

On a side note, How do you reset the FSS indicator??? Any help would be appreciated.

 

FSS does not reset itself !!!!

 

I'll try in the morning. I was following this:

turn key position to 2
press 0 twice
turn key position to 0
turn key position to 2 while press and hold 0.
hold 0 for 10 secs till beep signal comes on. (no beep btw)
release and fss gets reset.
It's in ur manual but what about the Oil Issue??? should it be changed every 5k? is the dealership motor oil better?

 

Dealership motor oil is most likely not any different than the Mobil 1 oil you used. What grade of Mobil 1 did you use?

 

i think that is was 10w30

 

Regardless whether u use Dealer or any other synthatic, I recommend every 5k miles specially if this car is for keeps.

 

Finally I found an oil that can safely be used while following the FSS change intervals. It is made in the USA, but was formulated to meet the tighter european cars specifications for evaporation, friction protection, cooling characteristics, etc.

For more details read on

I found out tha Amsoil now offers an oil for European cars that exceeds the latest MB specifications ( MB229.5, 229.3, 229.1 and BMW LL-01/98 among others) .

If you drive a lot over 1 year (i.e. >10000 miles) it is recommended that you replace the paper filter at least once each 6 months and top off the oil.
MB recommends a new filter element (fleece?) for longer change intervals.

Unfortunately the best Supersyn oil in the US stores and dealers is not as good as the ones used in europe for the tight engine engineering specs to allow those cars to perform the way they do and to fly on the long inter country autobahns for so many thousands of miles between oil changes.

The only match I found in the US market is made by a company called AMSOIL. They started the marketing of synthetic oil for cars when all multi-nationals laughed at them back in the 70s. A US veteran fighter pilot figured that if it was good for his jets why wouldn't it be great for cars. So with that dream and vision he started the company after returning from the war. This company (AMSOIL) is today eons ahead of the big guys in oil performance. Their oil formulations have been measured against all others and produced wear indexes half of the best super-syn oil in the market and as much as one quarter of the wear index of your average oil. In addition it evaporates half the rate the best oils in the market do after 6 months of use. That is the difference between having real protection in your engine crank-case or oil syrup (I have seen that first hand when replacing the top 1 oil at the shops that was used in the E320 for 8 months or 3000 miles prior to the last change I did. It was in quite a thick state even after warming up the engine). No wonder the regular dealers and oil changing companies recommend you to change oil every 3000 miles or 3 months for the regular cars. The problem with MB in the US is that the FSS system was set for a target of 10000 miles between service calls. Most people went by that and unfortunately since the majority of the oil used here is not as good as in Europe they ended up with broken engines very fast and then went and sued MB and won their case because they were not warned about the types of oil to use. So now MB is only recommending oil products that meet their latest and tighter specifications.

So with all that as a historical background, when I bought my 2 used 99 MB, I tried to find out more about this top of the line synthetic oil made by Amsoil after hearing about it from 2 friends that fly airplanes so many times at the office. Since I made a reasonable size investment on those cars I figured I better take better care of them than I would do for a regular car.

The web site where you can read more about this (plenty of technical data) and link directly to the manufacturer's web site to order oil and other products is:

http://synthetic-oil-tech.com/1265580

just click on the ONLINE STORE button and search for EUROPEAN .
You should get a list with 4 products with the european formulation. They are all the same but packaged in different sizes. Most MB (E and above) engine oil capacity is around 8.5 quarts of oil . The C class uses a bit less (6.5?). The retail price is a bit more than the "top" line of off the shelf synthethic oils, but then again the old saying that you get what you pay for applies also here. For those that decide to do the oil change for all of their cars and want to save some money I recommend signing up as a wholesale customer for 6 months at a low cost of $10 on that same site and during that time just purchase all the oil you need at the same price they sell to the direct distributors.

I also recommend you order their engine oil flush product, to be used before putting their oil so as to flush out all slush from previous oil used. It is quite simple. All instructions are on the web site and on the product label. They also have excellent products to clean the injectors and other parts of the carburation system.

I did notice even what fews a few more horse power from the E320 and noticed that the engine runs a lot smoother and revs up much quicker when demanded by the driver. I did not measure the mileage before and after for the E320, but will be doing that with the Aztek as it has a trip computer that displays the average mileage between resets.


When you use the AMSOIL oil for the first time you should use the oil flush product. In that case it is also recommended to do the oil draining using the plug in the bottom of the engine, but all future ones can be done by syphoning the oil using a vaccum syphon that goes into the dipstick tube. You can buy at boat stores and it is called Topsider. There are many other ones in the market, but this is one of the best. It costs 39 retail, but can be had for 29 sometimes on sale. It is cheap enough. So just get one and enjoy that care of your second or only lady depending on your situation. It is also a lot cleaner than getting under the car. Many dealers do it that way nowadays. You can try parking the car over a ramp so as to cause the oil to shift towards the dipstick side so as to drain the most oil you can. You can do a test, but many users of MB and BMW have found that if they take out the plug there is less than a cup of old oil left.
One detail about using the topsider or similar systems is that the oil needs to warm but not very hot as it tends to make the hoses too soft and they might clapse temporarily causing a slower drain rate.

For those that live in Texas for example who have to drive hundreds of miles daily for business or even to go shopping, it is easy to put 15 or even more than 20000 miles a year. In that case check-out the AMSOIL products that are guaranteed to protect your engine for 25,000 or 35,000 miles or 1 year on the product label (go find someone else that does that). It is called ATMTP and it costs only a bit more than the european formulation oil. Of course you would have to replace the oil filter at the intervals that the FSS recomends the oil service and would be better to use the new filter types using a fleece element instead of paper. You can still go ahead and plan to replace that oil at the 10000 mile intervals, but feel comfortable going over it if for some reason you are away from a service station or still thousands of miles away from a point/time you can afford to check her in for service or do it yourself again.
Common sense should be exercised by those that still have cars under warranty, as far as keeping the records up to date and doing the plan A or B when the indicator on the dash indicates it is time for service. notice that up to the 2004 model year, the routine service was included in the car price, but in 2005 it may have been discontinued for some. Once the warranty is over I normally get more aggressive with the way I maintain my cars. Meaning that I try to do the oil changes and other things myself , such as:
replace air filter by upgrading to K&L or AMSOIL filters that seem to do better in the long run, specially when replacing a regular paper filter,
replace wipers, bulbs,cabin air filter, . (it is quite involving to get them out of the glove compartment area) and I am almost sure that in one of my cars those filters were not replaced even though it had gone through a Plan A less than 12 months before I got to replace it myself.). By now you should be getting the flavor as to why I am trying to maintaim the routine things in my cars as much as I can. I think we the MB owners are fortunate to have a car that is well engineered . Things are usually pretty easy to replace , check or adjust, even though on the more complex ones we are still better off getting the specialized mechanics take care of (or at least try, as looking through these forums you can find answers for problems that the dealers have been kicking around the bush on your car and never fixed) . If they only read the service notes as well as most of us in these forums do there would be a lot less complaints about their quality.

 

There are different formulations of Mobil 1. The formulation that the dealer should be using is 0w40 European formula. You can find this in some auto parts stores with a black cap on the bottle. This is a slightly different formula than the US 5W30 or others. It is supposed to be the only Mobil 1 formula that meets the Mercedes specs.

Jim

 

sure, but if you want to get an oil that stands uo to the 10000 mile FSS period, there is only one I know first hand and it was well detailed above.

 

This list of approved motor oils for '98 - '01s appeared previously on this forum as post 968:

Mobil1 tri-synthetic formula 15w-50
Mobil1 tri-synthetic formula 0w-40
Valvoline Synpower full synthetic motor oil 5w-40
Castrol Syntec 5w-50
Castrol Syntec 10W-40
Castrol TXT Softec Plus 5w-30
Shell Helix ultra 5w-30
Shell Helix ultra 5w-40

I wonder if the FSS calculations are accurate with other oils.

 

For a complete and accurate list see:

http://www.whnet.com/4x4/oil.html

very useful information and eye opener.

Some of the oils listed above are not even in the 229.5 list nor even the 229.3 easier to meet specs list.
The 229.5 list is for those that follow the FSS change period and use fleece element filters.
The 229.3 list is ok for those that change oils between the FSS periods.

 

This is an interesting study comparing Mobil 1 and Amsoil over time

http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/s.../oil-life.html

The end of the article has an interesting point - the Amsoil had thickened so much at 14,000 miles that the fresh Mobil 1 at the oil change provided a 10% boost in fuel economy.

Jim

 

That was very interesting indeed.
Given that the car used was not a MB, I am not sure how much of that is applicable. I hope they go ahead and do the next test using Mobil 1 again, as there are many scientific reasons a test aparatus can change and cause biases in test results.
(FYI, my Pontiac with probably a similar engine construction has many Technical notes written on engine performance and lots of hate sites on the web now). They should have done a complete engine flushing on the fuel side too, as it accumulates carbon very fast, specially using the regular unleaded fuel they are probably using, which BTW brings another interesting point as far as the changes in the fuel formulations in all gas stations for the winter season)

It does not seem to be a very scientific test, but quite reasonable for comparisons if they double check with another cycle of the tests on both oils.

I noticed that they did not need to change the oil filter at all for the whole test period while using AMSOIL (14000 miles), while for limit reasons on particles, the first test on Mobil1 required an oil change at 12000 miles. Both numbers are quite good though as most of us replace the filters at 5000 to 10000 mile intervals. But then again,as they say, it may have been due to the test car new engine. Given that their tests do not run for a full year for each oil, there may also be ambient temperature inputs into the results, but if they repeat thei tests and show a meaningful statistical difference then the results will be a bit more close to a scientific test.


The thing that is quite bothersome is the statement at the end saying that the car mileage improved by 10% when they changed the oil to Mobil 1 at the end of test (after 14000 miles). I have noticed a similar result when switching from Mobil 1 (after 7 months and 5000 miles) to AMSOIL. Is that comparison relevant and honest, I doubt. Of course going from an old used oil to a new and fresh one you should get a mileage improvement. They did not say how much was their mileage improvemnet when they took the Mobil1 oil out and started the Amsoil tests did they?

I will bookmark that site for future references.
Thanks for the link.
We will all get ahead by exchanging frank and honest observations of direct impact to our cars longevity and performance and pocket book too in the long run.
This new concept of extended service oils has just started to take off now.
There are many people who claim to have cars with over 250,000 miles using petroleum based oils, what they fail to note is that they changed their oil each 3000 miles or 3 months. We are now embarking on a new diet program. Only the real best oil blends will keep the engine mechanical parts protected well enough to last as long as many MB cars have lasted in the past before the FSS system was started and Synthetic oils became finally more popular.

BTW: just for good reference read through the Mobil1 test results to see how traceable each of the 4 test lab results were and also to see the dramatic changes in TBN between (old) and (new) results.

 

Hi Jim, now I have read that report a little more carefully, I have made some quite interesting observations.
Before I get over-extended here let's take care of first things first though.

What is an engine oil main purpose in life?

If you answer to reduce engine wear you are so far with me on this .

From that report you referred to, I see that the rate of wear related metals showing on the results for the Mobil 1 oil at 12000 miles was something like 2 times higher than the AMSOIL oil at that same point.

Strange, isn't it. They stopped the AMSOIL testing because they were concerned with the "increased" viscosity and insolubles and yet the AMSOIL oil was still producing better than 50% less total wear related metals (specially Iron, copper and lead) when compared to the Mobil 1 results at the same point?

Even though I have several reservations about the unbiased independent validity and reliability of those tests done, besides the traceabiliity and repeatability of the labs they used, I still see that they failed to conclude the obvious from the same exact data they collected. The difference in performnace was so great that statiscally it stands out, which is:
What was the oil that kept the engine wear at a minimum for the normal period of the MB FSS ? Was the answer too obvious for them to see?

How could it be that way even though their TBNs and viscosity supposedly were still "good"?

Even if I had not already commited to use AMSOIL oil from the referrals I got from old friends, with this almost blatant mis-interpreted report I have no doubts what to continue using. Why is it that when we are so committed to the heard mentality we find it difficult to buck the trend and look from far back and see what is really going on?


Finally I copied the main points they referred below, as far as what to look for in an oil for quality:

The oil is analyzed for many different things. The most critical characteristics for the purposes of oil longevity are:

* Viscosity: This is the SUS viscosity at 210 degrees. It is the standard SAE viscosity measure; SUS is the unit of viscosity. This value should remain within its grade, or plus or minus 20%, whichever is greater. AMSOIL changed by 12% in their test setup based on their lab testing, so well within this parameter expected performance.
* TBN: The Total Base Number. This is a measure of acid-combatting additives. Oil is essentially expired once it reaches a TBN around 2. Blatant difficulties with the measurement of this parameter starting from the Mobil1 test phase pretty much puts their accuracy in question for this item. Even though Amsoil was supposedly measured with lower TBN at 12000 miles the wear metals measured were substantially lower than on Mobil1 tests. The TBN indicated at the start of the Mobil 1 testing is questionable.
* Insolubles: This is the percentage of the test sample consisting of solids. Solids are always bad; the value should be less than 0.6%. What size insolubles are these? Were the filters used good enough to trap them? Did AMSOIL results deviate statiscaly enough to cause the early test stop at 14000 miles without an oil change? What was the measurement precision for this parameter? To be really fair they should have repeated the same exact thing they did for the Mobil1 oil, which was to replace the filter so that they could make meaningfull correlations after 12000 miles.
* Wear Metals: The presence of wear metals is a "contaminant" and the rate of accumulation is an indicator of the oil's protective condition. The exact values representing oil change time is rather subjective; we use Blackstone's conservative guidance in conjunction with other industry experts. Iron, copper, and lead are normally the ones to watch.
Wear metals are "contaminants"? For me they are real indication of an oil quality and therefore should be called "St Thomas factors".
This is the real test to watch. The wear metals as they indicated in their report later on are :
Engine Wear: aluminum, chromium, iron, copper, lead, tin, molybdenum, nickel, manganese, silver, titanium, posassium, and silicon.

If you add all those components for Mobil 1 at 12000 miles you get an accumulated total of 228 (note that I subtracted the starting molybdenum value for the Mobil1 tests as it is clear that they use it as an additive given the high starting values. Funny though, why would you use as an additive a metal that when present in the analysis could represent the wear of certains part of the engine, I guess you basically get blind for that metal wear when using Mobil1.


Amsoil total accumulated was 113 at 12000 miles. Wow, wait a minute. Did I add that right? really? 50% less wear metals accumulated in the oil?

That is a substantial lower rate of wear indication for me. Statistically speaking in double blind tests (nowhere near the case in those tests) when there is a 20% better result for a medicine, it is considered effective for the treatment it is being tested for, if it is proven safe as far as side effects. I see on those tests what it is, that the doctor would have prescribed for my car to keep it in the healthiest possible condition. I can't wait to see a real lab test done between the 2 oils made by Mobil1 and Amsoil for my MB cars.

The wear indicator metals test results basically mean that, if I changed my oil at 12000 miles intervals and drove a car up to 200,000 miles over 10 years, my Amsoil fed engine would be 5 years younger in wear than the Mobil 1 fed engine. Wow, am I going crazy here? did my computer add the wear metal numbers wrong?


and finally:
On the last paragraph for the Mobil1 report they stated the following:
one is forced to wonder whether an engine with a high-quality PAO synthetic combined with a bypass filtration system and regular filter changes would ever need its oil changed at all.
They don't need to wonder, AMSOIL has had such a bypass filtration system for several years now. There are truck fleets using their extended service oil for diesel trucks for 1,000,000 (1 million) miles (per each single truck) all over the USA, without changing the oil (of course they need to top off what gets naturally consumed). They just clean and change the elements of their fancy oil filtration system after something like 30,000 or more miles and voila, they are back on the road earning the most they can out of the trucks. Some passenger car drivers have posted on another forum similar version of those fancy filters for their cars, but that is only for those who drive lots of miles each month, of course.


That's all for now. I am eager to get a chance to do my car oil change in the near future to send them out for analysis. The C230 has Mobil1 on it and the E320 has Amsoil. Both were changed at about the same time. The E320 had Mobil 1 prior to switching to AMSOIL.
I guarantee I won't solicit contributions though. That's all for now.

 

cant wait for the results.

 

I think ill use what mercedes and amg both reccomend, MOBIL 1. I have been doing this in my clk for the last 6 years with 10 k intervals and i have zero consumption problems.

 

Please let me know where they recommend only Mobil 1. I have been looking for it. There is a major difference between using a certain brand at most dealers and saying that it is the sole brand or manufacturer who knows how to make extended life oil. If that was the case you would not be able to upgrade their tires (much more critical due to safety concerns) to better products in the market from companies other than Michelin or Continental.

The actual recommedation you will find i any car manufacturer user manual is in regards to performance equal to or better than a certain API grade. (It is illegal in the USA to use shennigans at the dealer falsely trying to void warranty because you use a different product brand than they use. AMSOIL will back me up legally against those cases, as stated on their own web site. There has not been a single case where they lost in the few cases where a simple legal letter to the dealer did not solve the issue early).

MB also has a specification standard for different types of oil usage.
The most comprehensive and toughest one is 229.5.
Here is a list of excellent oil brands that meet those requirements:
(that would be what you would consider the closest to a MB recommended oil)
Note that there are only 4 US brands: AMSOIL, MOBIL1, Pennzoil, Quaker.

see the site I listed in one of the recent postings on this thread where I extracted the relevant notes below:
Mercedes-Benz recommends the use of MB approved engine oils listed in the Mercedes-Benz oil specification sheet 229.3 or 229.5 which also meet ACEA and/or API classifications listed on the chart below. If a MB approved or ACEA quality engine oil is not available, then an API quality engine oil meeting the below listed API classifications can be used. Only engine oils (including synthetic) with any of the following classification grades, or combinations thereof, are approved.

Engine


MB Sheet

229.3
229.5

ACEA Classification 1
A3
B3


API Classification 1
SJ
SL


1 only if MB sheet 229.3 or 229.5 is not available

some oils which are not recommended:
Mobil 1 SuperSyn 0W-30 SL/SJ/CF A1/B1/A5 9.7 doesn't meet 229.1 nor ACEA A2 or A3
Mobil 1 SuperSyn 5W-30 SL/SJ/CF A1/B1/A5 9.8 doesn't meet 229.1 nor ACEA A2 or A3
Mobil 1 SuperSyn 10W-30 SL/SJ/CF A1/B1/A5 10.1 doesn't meet 229.1 nor ACEA A2 or A3

Note the list of NOT recommended oil for 229.5. There are a lot of people using the 10W30 without even knowing it is not recommended for extended service interval. Their only approved grade is Mobil1 0W40 for 229.5. So be careful with stating I only use Mobil1 as it may confuse a lot of people.

Following is the list of oil brands that meet the 229.5 MB sheet requirements in North America:
MB sheet 229.5 approved oils; "MB Longlife Service Oils"
for passenger cars with gas and diesel engines with extended drain intervals beyond 229.3 oils, to 30,000 km, min 1.8% fuel saving, first oils introduced summer 2002. For gas engines of the M100 series, gas engines of the M200 series and diesel engines of the OM600 series (not models with Euro 4 diesel particle filters).
229.5 engine oils must be used with fleece oil filter designed for use with 229.5 engine oils.


Amsoil Synthetic 5W-40 European Engine Oil (USA)
Mobil 1 SuperSyn European Car Formula 0W-40 / Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel 0W-40 (USA)
Mobil SHC Formula MB 5W-30 (USA)
Pennzoil European Formula Ultra 5W-30 (USA)
Quaker State European Formula Ultra 5W-30 (USA)


As you can see this MB latest specs have only 4 complaint oil companies in the US. It is the top line. Note that it is not only a certain manufacturer that can do it though.

As to the metal wear factors, as I said before I shall be getting a real scientific measurement on that through a lab test on both MB cars oil for the next oil change. Results will be reported here no matter what the outcome is.


And lastly, do you send your oil out for lab checks? I don't do it myself, but given the interesting saga we are building on this thread, I became interested on it enough to do it next time.

Of course it is our own money and car, so we can do whatever we see fit within the recommended boundaries by the manufacturer and still be covered by any warranty still in effect as well as maintenance insurance coverages.

 

p.s. oil brand is not like a footbal team that you would argue for yours as being the best even when it is loosing. There is a lot at stake besides personal pride or favorite brand, based on marketing or colors of their logo.

 

where can u send your oil for testing? my oil change is almost due. I change my 0w40 every 5k miles.
also how much would it costs apporximately?

 

Blackstone basic test is $20 - If you want Terry Dyson to give an explanation and further testing, that is $32.

http://www.blackstone-labs.com/index.html

Jim

 

This is where I have ordered my kits:

go to site:
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/def...spx?zo=1265580

enter G1451 in the search window and click on the search button.
They will perform a comprehensive test including TBN analysis, which is normally a $10.00 on other labs such as above.

The postage paid kit will be shown. It costs $25.20. ($20 or so without postage paid, but then you need to go to the postoffice to pay the postage.).
Just click on add to cart. You can also click on the product listing to get more details about it. The lab they use is called Oil Analyzers Inc. Don't write the oil brand name on the bottle, so that you will have no doubt about biasing in the results. You will be able to go online and see the results a few days later. Let us know how it comes out. I will be doing the same.

Here is a list of the tests I was able to retrieve from their web site:
Analysis
Upon receipt of your sample at the Oil Analyzers Inc. laboratory, all requisite testing will be performed. All analyses include determination of viscosity, fuel dilution (if applicable), water, dirt content, fuel soot contamination (if applicable), plus spectrochemical analysis for 20 elements to determine component wear, airborne dirt, anti-freeze contamination (if applicable), and oil additive concentrations.
The analyses also includes a neutralization value determination - Total Base Number, TBN (primarily for gasoline and diesel motor oils) or Total Acid Number, TAN (non-crankcase lubricants). Oxidation values and nitration values (if applicable) are also determined

It is rare for a lab at the $20.00 price range to do all the tests above. They usually charge extra for TBN and other non spectrochemical analysis.

when you are about to get the oil changed, you can ask the oil change facility to fill the bottle as they drain the oil or do it yourself as you drain it . Follow the procedures to avoid contamination and how to take samples for accurate readings. (The important thing is not to take the sample from the first oil that comes out and neither at the end. If you have a Topsider you would stick the clean extraction tube in until it is half the height of the oil tank. The dipstick can be used as a reference to mark the tube length. You then stick the tube of the topsider into the dipstick tube until the marking is at the top of the dispstick tube. That guarantees an uniform sample with the least amount of contaminants. The engine needs to have been running for at leat 5 min prior to extraction, but of course needs to be stopped when the extraction is in progress. Things can be hot around the engine and also the oil, so exercise proper care.)



You don't need all the other accessories they offer for sucking the oil out as you will be doing an oil change already. The other accessories you see they offer are for fleet maintenace where they just draw a sample to verify the oil performance while using it for real extended periods by means of specialized bypass filters that keep the oil clean.


I have not received my kits yet, so if you have any further questions, we will have to wait until I get them. Alternatively my friend that distributes those products/services can help further.
Cheers,

p.s. I went ahead and ordered 2 extra kits so that I can also get the transmission oil checked, as this lifetime transmission oil thing is great, but I decided to verify it. Both of my MB have about 50000 miles so hopefully the transmission oil is at mid life at least.

 

I have a sticker under my hood right ontop of the radiator which states MERCEDES BENZ AND ///AMG RECCOMEND MOBIL 1. Its a black sticker with logos of all the brands.

I am sure its just a suggestion, but i am certain the factory would not reccomend an inferior oil on cars, especially one like AMG that manufactures motors that exceed 500 hp. If amsoil was so much better im sure it would be a factory fill or at least on the reccomended lubricants list.

 

I don't have such as sticker on either of my 2 99 MB cars.
This is what my MB owners manual says about oil recommendations:
page 158 99 C and E class books:
...use only engine oils recommended by Mercedes Benz.
Information on recommended brands is available at your authorized MB dealer.

Call your MB dealer and ask information on the recommended brands, for a reality check.

I suspect AMG put the sticker in there, as people in the US were buying these expensive cars (not reading the manual, not asking the dealers) and skimping on the oil changes and doing them at those quick lube places or using standard oils.
They are exposed during the warranty period, so better make sure customer is aware of a good oil brand to use, so that it lasts at least through the warranty period. Even that way they still got in trouble recently.
Does that mean that no one makes equivalent or better oil formulations?
Does that mean that the oil they recommend is the lowest quality allowed? Sure not.

In this world of cut teeth competition even expensive car companies will try to save a few dollars here and there. If they can get additional discounts by recommeding a certain brand, then I don't blame them for doing so.

I get discounts on my ebay/paypal listings by recommending paypal as the only form of electronic payment. Does that mean that is the best/safest company for those services, I am sure it is not.
It is just the way business works nowadays.

If you use Mobil1 make sure it is the 0W40 formulation only, as most of their other "supersyn" formulations sold at most stores in the US do meet even the 229.1 or 229.3 MB recommendations, let alone the latest 229.5 recommendations for extended period.

I have listed before the oil brands that meet the MB recommendations, but will repeat here for your information:
http://www.whnet.com/4x4/oil.html

here is the list of oils that meet the toughest and newest MB recommendations:

MB sheet 229.5 approved oils; "MB Longlife Service Oils"
for passenger cars with gas and diesel engines with extended drain intervals beyond 229.3 oils, to 30,000 km, min 1.8% fuel saving, first oils introduced summer 2002. For gas engines of the M100 series, gas engines of the M200 series and diesel engines of the OM600 series (not models with Euro 4 diesel particle filters).
229.5 engine oils must be used with fleece oil filter designed for use with 229.5 engine oils.


Amsoil Synthetic 5W-40 European Engine Oil (USA)
Mobil 1 SuperSyn European Car Formula 0W-40 / Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel 0W-40 (USA)
Mobil SHC Formula MB 5W-30 (USA)
Pennzoil European Formula Ultra 5W-30 (USA)
Quaker State European Formula Ultra 5W-30 (USA)

some oils which are not recommended:
Mobil 1 SuperSyn 0W-30 SL/SJ/CF A1/B1/A5 9.7 doesn't meet 229.1 nor ACEA A2 or A3
Mobil 1 SuperSyn 5W-30 SL/SJ/CF A1/B1/A5 9.8 doesn't meet 229.1 nor ACEA A2 or A3
Mobil 1 SuperSyn 10W-30 SL/SJ/CF A1/B1/A5 10.1 doesn't meet 229.1 nor ACEA A2 or A3


Esso weckt die Kraft, die im Motor steckt.
reference taken from:
Wolfgang's ML Page

p.s. I just took the opportunity while opening the car hoods to look for that impossible to find sticker and checked the oil dipsticks on the Benzes.
The C230 with Mobil1 looked gross, thick as caramel. The E320 with Amsoil looked almost new. It even passed my simple drop test, by producing 2 drops from the end of the dipstick while holding iy up vertically. Both oils were changed at the same time pretty much (E320 was 1 month earlier). Both cars have more than 6 months on their respective oil. As I said before they will be going out for analysis shortly.
BTW I did have to top off the Mobil oil twice while the Amsoil is still untouched. Pretty much jives with the notes of their garage test on their first 6000 miles of oil testing they conducted. As far as I am concerned Amsoil is way ahead. The lab results will give the real truth though. I will see if I can post the link to the results here for all to see.

 

Yes that is a good point, only the 0w40 mobil is approved. I am sure to use those only (with the black top), but they are getting increasingly hard to get.

I am more concerned about the paper composed filter than the oil quality to be honest. Today's oils have good technology, but the filter can only be effective to a certain point.