Car shivering
I suggest gettin it check at a local mechanic or stealership; thou I don't like going to them because they are so expensive.
But yeah, it's most likely the pulleys.
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However, you got K&N? Did you check your car's blood cholesterol...ooops, I meant silicon and metal levels lately?
(oh BTW, you will definitely find traces of metals in your oil.....the pistons do wear down, if you catch my drift).
Are there any codes or a CEL?
Try going back to a stock paper element air cleaner and at the same time, remove your MAF and being very careful, clean it. Hope you kept the original element and did not throw it away.
There are spray on cleaners that will remove any oil that may have come off the K & N (oiled) filter.
It doesn't take much to coat the fine element in the MAF and mess it up.
This is what many individuals were experiencing on their TDIs.
It's worth a try isn't it? Relatively easy to do and not expensive because you can do it yourself.
Good luck, and I HTHs
regards,
Are there any codes or a CEL?
Try going back to a stock paper element air cleaner and at the same time, remove your MAF and being very careful, clean it. Hope you kept the original element and did not throw it away.
There are spray on cleaners that will remove any oil that may have come off the K & N (oiled) filter.
It doesn't take much to coat the fine element in the MAF and mess it up.
This is what many individuals were experiencing on their TDIs.
It's worth a try isn't it? Relatively easy to do and not expensive because you can do it yourself.
Good luck, and I HTHs

Last edited by Whitey; Jan 25, 2005 at 08:04 AM.
The RPM is stable. no ups nor downs. The shiveris not all the time.
regards,
It is 2000 E320 with 47 k miles. It shivers only in D drive and only hwen temp is below 50F. In warm wheather it runs perfectly. The engine is not shaking at all, the RPM is very stable. It does not shiver in N nor in parking.
It would seem to occur only when under a load. How about when it is in reverse?
Iin drive, does it matter whether it is in "W" or "S," as I was thinking the load factor might just make a difference, as you have said that it doesn't do it at all when in neutral or park regardless of the outside temperature.
How about when the outside temperature is lower than 50 degrees Fahrenheit?
This is happening only when the car is first started up, or does it still continue as the motor is warming up?
And when it reaches full operating temperatures, is it still occuring?
It absolutely does not occur when the outside temperatures are above 50 degrees.
That's a strange one indeed.
It could be those motor mounts, but I'm inclined to suspect the MAF, as your
outside air entering the air intake won't change that much as the engine warms up.
Because the incoming outside air is of a lower temperature may be causing
the fouled up (if it is bad) MAF to cause unsteady readings to the ECU.
This is only an educated guess on my part, so consider the source.
Did you simply wipe off the black plastic surfaces, or did you actually clean the fine wire element?
Was there any dust on those surfaces?
It is very difficult if not impossible to clean the MAF properly without removing it from the engine bay.
If not the MAF, my second guess would be those motor mounts.
But given this temperature factor, I don't see the problem being with them.
I had heard that the motor mounts and balancers were a problem only in the
earlier model W-210s equipped with the straight, not the V6 motors.
If you have any way to have anyone check it to see if there are any stored codes, try and do so.
Some of the popular parts houses will do this gratis.
Worth a shot when one is trying to save a buck, no?
A plugged Cat. or your use or not of higher octane fuel shouldn't make any difference, at least when idling.
I keep reflecting on that low temperature thing.
Try cleaning your MAF again, and see what happens.
Before you remove it for cleaning, and when it is doing the "shakes,"
simply try unplugging your MAF and see what happens.
We are all simply fishing here, and as they say, any port in a storm.
Being "shade tree" mechanics, we do what we can.
It'll be interesting to see what you do discover.
HTHs
Last edited by Green E-300 DT; Jan 25, 2005 at 12:18 PM.
Changing fuels won't matter. It cannot be fuel related.
Take the time to remove the plug on the MAF while it is doing it and see if it stops.
If it does stop when the MAF is unplugged, there's your problem!
Then remove that MAF and clean the tiny element(s) inside with diaelectric cleaner.
If that doesn't fix it, then you'll have to spring for a new MAF.
Getting one yourself is a lot less expensive than going to the dealer and having them do the entire procedure.
It's got to be the MAF. If not, what else could it be?
about a year ago i have discovered the car was almost about to dance just like how taxis do at stop lights haha, i have looked around the car but don't find anything unusual until i had to ask my uncle which was a ZF certified MB mechanic of HK, but now works for Porsche and Renault of HK. He said Usually >320 engines are typically heavy and once reached about to 40000 to 50000 km in mileage the pieces of rubber that supports the motor (the pieces of plastic that is between the motor and the X support of the engine) will eventually wear out. Thus he took the car for a spin and then soon he replaced the pieces of plastic and showed me the ones that wore out. A new piece is about 2 inches thick while the wore out ones ended up having about 1.5 inches. Thus ever since then the shaking matter has gone away for good.
i cannot say i am 100% sure this is is the problem that causes your car to shake, but there might be a chance
anyhow, good luck!
Last edited by freshyip; Jan 26, 2005 at 03:20 AM.
Ooops. I guess u can not be talking to me becuase I have 271 replies !!!





