Nickthegreek

Hey, I want to attempt to take off the front bumper splash guard and engine belly pan before I attempt to lift my car so I can see where I'm putting the Jack and so I don't break the plastic in case the jack slips. I know there are four bolts holding the engine belly pan on but I think the splash guard may be alittle trickier. Two of the bolts that hold the engine belly pan on connect to the splash guard also, and then there are two other bolts right under the bumper. But I still could not get it off. I felt around and couldn't see anything else. Anybody have a diagram or know what holds the splash guard on?

LAZARU5

See steps five and nine in this post where I explain how to remove the W211 front bumper. I think the info will help you.

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/foru...sp?tid=1209573

Why are you trying to raise the car? If you are doing some work on the wheels or brakes, you can safely lift the car from the plastic jacking point that is on the cross member below the engine. This jacking point protrudes through a cutout in the plastic panels. I believe you can jack up the car at his jacking point and remove the plastic panels with the jack in place. You should also use jack stands in the jacking points behind the front wheels. I don't think you will find a more suitable jacking point after you remove the plastic belly pan below the engine.

It helps to have a floor jack with a rubber padded head instead of the steel cup style. I attached a photo from my SLK350, but, the W211 is similar.

Nickthegreek

Hey,

The reason why is because I'm a big DIY and I have this obsession with lifting a car and just looking at it all the time to know exactly how it works and whether or not I can fix certain things. I haven't really gotten a chance to lift the car up and see how easy or hard it would be to do alot of repairs and it's been bothering the crap out of me. The two main repairs that I would really like to be able to do are brakes and oil changes. If I can't do those then I'll feel kinda useless and have to get raped by the dealer.

So anyway the second reason is because remember that recent posting of mine you replied too? Well after shortly after I posted it, I lifted my car up on the lift and the car came crashing down and thanfully only cracked the splash guard because I lifted the car up without a "cup" or a modified lift saddle and it scared the living s&^*t out of me. But I don't want to let that stop me from lifting it up so now I'm really cautious and I want to take the plates off so I can see where I'm lifting and I don't want to break that again cause it is gonna cost a pretty penny to fix. I ordered that plate you showed me. Thnx for the help.

Nickthegreek

Oh yeah and I also want to drain the oil from the pan using the drain.

jangy

Get a nice floor jack and lay down dolly. I spend HOURS under my car. The Benzos are pretty well covered (aerodynamics) and all.

LAZARU5

I saw your post with the reference to the JJL Customs saddles designed for BMWs. The JJL saddles do look pretty nice. Did you get a JJL one or an inexpensive one like the one I have with the rubber pad over a steel plate?

Glad to hear the you did not get hurt or incur signicant damage when the car slipped off your jack. Didn't you block the rear tires?

Nickthegreek

FGWINN

Hey, I ordered both plates for the hell of it to see if either one is better or just as good. I'm also glad I didn't get under the car. I'm just kinda scared that the same thing will happen to me again but I'm gonna try it. I put thw parking brake on but no chocks. The car would lift up, but the lift would move away from the block as it would go up. I'm thinking though that either that plate you showed me or the one from JJl customs may be of more help because without a plate to provide some "grip", then the same thing will probably happen again, boy do I feel stupid. So if the head of the jack does start to move away from the car, then it will pull the jack towards the car. Should this not be happening? When i lift my crown Victoria from the cross member, as it goes up the jack gets pulled in ever so slight by about maybe an inch or two. I don't know if there's a term for this.

Nickthegreek

You know what fgwinn, now that I took a good look at that pic you posted, your lift block is actually situated differently than mine. It looks like yours runs lengthwise with the car, mine runs widthwise with the car. I wonder if that could have anything to do with it slipping off . if the jack moves on a block that runs lengthwise with the car it would be harder for it to slip off.

Nickthegreek

Alright, I got both the plates in and now I think I'll testem out. I'll post pics.
I also made a slight variation (the poor man's high tech version) of the jack stands that you made fgwinn.

All you need is

1) A mercedes benz certified precision hack saw:




2) Rust free aircraft quality cast iron Pro-lift 2 1/2 ton jack stands from advance auto



Notice the precision cutting:



2) Debur and file down edges to fit into mercedes benz factory jack points

Voila!!!!
Non-certified Mercedes Benz jack stands....




They sure as hell ain't pretty lookin, but we'll find out if they do the job...
I'm gonna givem the ol'shake test and tell ya guys how they end up workin


*****Disclaimer- I do not endorse anyone trying this as the integrity of these jack stands may be compromised. If you attempt to try this you are doing it at your own risk and I assume no liability****

Nickthegreek

The verdict is in, the plate you referred me too fgwinn was better than the JJL customs plate hands down. It provided more grip and it did not slip at all. And those jack stands mated perfectly with the factory points after a little bench grinding. So now I can lay this to rest that the reason why my jack slipped off was cause I was an idiot for not putting a proper jack saddle on. And now I know I can fix my brakes. As for my oil, I think I'm gonna use a topsider so I don't have to get under the car.

THE END

klenbore

For those of you using floor jacks, WARNING, never ever lift with a metal to metal contact. Place a little piece of wood, rubber or any non-slick material between the metal to metal contact.