It appears I need new rotors on my '05 CDI (at only 17000 Miles). Has anyone replaced the rotors themselves? Any info would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks

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https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w211/91542-w211-diy-brake-job.html

 

Thanks for the reply. All the information was great. Bought a couple of rotors and got to work. Followed all the directions to the T and got the calipers off without any trouble. However, I rounded out the T30 Torx screw on the right front rotor and can't get it out...any suggestions (and no laughing!!!!)

Thanks again.

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I realize this is probably late but..... I would always get a second opinion on whether or not your rotors were bad. Because the cost of the part is so inexpensive, and they are doing most of the labor anyway in replacing the pads, I think the "stealers" are always quick to recommend a replacement of the rotors. Also remember that they typically only see a car once every 12-15 months, so when they evaluate your pads and rotors, they are evaluating whether or not they will need changing during this time frame.

 

Unfortunately, I have already purchased the rotors etc. However, there is a definate vibration in the steering wheel when applying the brakes which goes away if I take my foot off the brakes. I am surprised I needed rotors after only 17k miles especially since I am not very hard on the brakes.
I have applied some liquid wrench on the torx screw and will try a set of screw outs and see if I can remove the screw....will keep everyone appraised of my results, I know you are all waiting with baited breath.

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Smack the Brake rotor with a Large Hammer (On The Backside of the Brake rotor) to Help free up the Frozen/Rusted Torx set screw..Even with Low Miles seen Several Rusted to the Hub
Tool Companies make a Special removal tool for rounded out fasteners
Try Snap On/ Mac / Matco / Craftsman

 

It's Torx and not XZN, right?

 

Yes, its a Torx....finally drilled it out and bought a new screw for three bucks. The entire process from here was seemless thanks to all the great info and advise from everyone, especially the thread above. The car no longer has the vibration with braking and feels soooo much better.

You guys are the greatest. Thanks.

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Unfortunately you didn’t mention the steering vibration sooner:

Bulletin P-B-33.15/16a JAN06 – Steering Wheel Twitch during Brake Application (W211 – 2003 through 2006)
Steering wheel twitch during slow speed brake applications – calls for the replacement of the hydro-mount or partially hollow rubber style torque strut bushings (which ever equipped) with solid rubber bushings. The solid rubber bushings (part # A211 333 11 14) have an increased resilience towards deforming during suspension loading.