I’m thinking of

1) replacing stock amp with a DSP one and tune
2) if still lacking replace two front footwell 8” woofers
3) If still unhappy ???

 

Assuming you’re running lossless? I was initially disappointed with the audio. Seemed anemic, until I finally ponied up for Apple Music. I’m still amazed at how much gets clipped off both ends.

 

I’m using Spotify. Sometimes Apple Music. But, even FM radio sucks.

 

I am not as familiar with the W213 options when it comes to audio but I assume you have the standard Burmester system in your wagon. If that is the case, an upgrade is fairly easy. I have a W222 with the Burmester 3D HE system and it has far to many nannies to overcome as it thinks it is the pinnacle of audio excellence and why would anybody upgrade it. I attempted a sub upgrade on my 2019 S63 with the HE system by just grabbing the signal off the trunk sub and sending that into a JL Audio VXi 1000/1 sub amp via LOC and everything worked but when driving with the windows closed there was a rumble from the sub that made it sound like I was in Sport+ mode when I wasn't. Open a window and it went away, but I digress. With the standard Burmester you will need a NAV-TV or Mobridge box to grab the optical signal from the head unit and provide you with a flat, clean signal. You can then just grab the speaker leads off the Burmester amp and use those to run from your new aftermarket amp to the various speakers. I would probably not replace the shallow mount 8s" in the front but rather tune them to be a mid base as that is really all they are good for. I would do a dedicated box in the back with a 10" sub if you really want to upgrade as the lower frequencies are really what these factory systems lack. I would also probably get a nice amp with an integrated DSP, I loved my JL Audio VXi 1000/1 and VXi 800/8 but they were thirsty for amperage so I would probably just do the VXi800-8 if I was going to do it again as that is probably more than enough power. Next to the sub the next most important speakers are the front soundstage and those are pretty easy to upgrade as well if you are comfortable removing door cards.

 

Thank you!

You have a really good point - how good is 8" really ever going to be?

Now I'm looking at MATCH UP 8DSP, skipping speaker upgrades, and just putting a 10" or 12" sub in the back and take it from there after doing SQ

How to secure sub while "AMG-ing"?

 

Sounds good, no pun intended. I would probably do a sealed box to minimize size and have an upholstery shop wrap it in leather. I have always thought it would be cool to wrap a box to look like a nice piece of luggage so it just kind of blends in. I would also install a quick disconnect so you can easily remove it when needed.

 

https://shokz.com/pages/openrunpro2?...SCx5hlbZ4Ginvw

 

I love love LOVE open back headphones! I have Focal Clear MG that sound flipping fantastic plugged into a Rega Brio, or portably, an iPhone with a Mojo 2 while sitting by the pool or walking around the house. Thank you I will check these out.

I know not to expect much HiFi from a car, but, man the stock system is just HORRID - really hoping at least a DSP cleans it up a bit.

Looking at sealed subs now... that aren't too intrusive and that can be secured when, um, making good time.

 

I will be curious to see how much range you can get out of the Matchup 8DSP. My understanding is that this unit grabs the post processed signal from the Burmester amp. I tried going this route on my last car, a 2015 S550 with the standard Burmester amp and it just would not deliver a flat, clean signal that didn't roll off the lower bass frequencies at higher volumes. The NAV TV unit solved this for me as it grabbed the full fidelity optical signal from the head unit before the amp had a chance to mess with it and provided a toslink signal to route to the JL amps. It also maintained the cars bings and bongs that utilize the same audio. At this point I was running a JL VXi 1000/1 to a 10" single JL W7AE in a sealed box and driving the factory speakers with the JL VXi 800/8. I have to say that this one 10" sub, in the very sealed up trunk of an S Class was louder than some high SQ competition systems I have heard in the past. Factory speakers almost always sound better with a clean and strong signal but high end aftermarket speakers sound about the same as OEM with the same crap OEM amps and processing. Cheers.

 

Hmm

Another good point you bring up. If it is not taking the optical then the Match will be missing signal from the ranges that need filling in.

<grumble>

 

I used the Nav TV audio interface for a 2017 Corvette. That gave me unequalized audio (I used the toslink fiber connection). Worked great. It appears the Nav TV ZEN-M is the interface to use for the E63S. Once you have that, then what you go to depends on how much you're willing to spend. You can go to a vehicle equalization system (IE MiniDSP C-DSP 8x12 DL), then some decent amplifiers and speakers. Just the Nav TV & the MiniDSP put you at nearly $2K US. The MiniDSP allows up to 12 output channels, so you could run dual subs and 5 channels a side, or even 2 subs, a front center, rear center, and 4 channels a side. As you can guess, all of this would require a lot of planning, fabrication, and $s. The equalization system does a lot of the tuning for you and a well planned system can sound pretty incredible.

Lessons I learned with my Corvette is
1. Don't use amplifiers with fans. You spend all this money for good sound and small screaming fans kills it.
2. Don't scrimp on sound treatments. Use plenty of dampener and barriers. To do this properly you pretty much have to gut the interior.
3. All that sound control really helps the audio and really reduces outside noise (hint: exhaust) so if you don't want that it is somewhat counter productive.
4. Big tires and sport suspensions create a lot of noise and sound treatments will not fully control it. So a home hifi level of performance isn't possible, so maybe all that cost in electronics and installation in a car isn't really as important as one might think at the start.

 

I guess I put car stereo upgrades--at least when you're starting with high-end car quality--in the same category as engine tunes. (Why?) I used to be an audiophile, with a well into 5 figures home system. I say "used to be" because I'm older and my hearing is definitely not as good, but I hope I still have decent listening skills.

I have a 2018 E63s wagon with the 810 audio option. It sounds pretty good. Better than our other cars. Decent articulation of detail without smearing. Got the Acoustic package too, which helps on the noise floor, but running PS4s that are kinda noisy. I don't view thumping base or the reproduction of low-bit audio as an improvement in car audio. (I can imagine FM digital radio bit rates could vary... haven't researched in years since my home mega-buck FM runner died, but I suspect CD or good digital FM are your best sources).

You'll never have truly exquisite sound in such a [relatively] noisy environment with no chance of soundstage imaging. Making it loud or thump isn't good sound.

Get off my lawn.

 

Going ZEN-M will be blowing the budget. I just want it to sound not terrible.

Here's an interesting thread:

S205 Stereo Upgrade - MBWorld.org Forums

And here too:

My review/installation of Audiotec Fischer Match speakers and amplifier - pic heavy - Page 4 - MBWorld.org Forums

No rabbit holes.
Definitely don't want an 'all or nothing' massive $$ and project.
All I want is for this six-figure car to not sound like a bluetooth pool speaker .
For the least amount of money and work possible.

 

I guess the question is, what is your budget and are you comfortable with fabrication and installation work?

 

This stage $2k and later plus a sub box another $1-2k or after I fiddle with stage 1 for some time I may leave it.
No I cannot fabricate. Everything will need to be plug and play with _very_ minimal wiring skills and no box building skills involved. Would love to DIY it vs. leaving the car at a shady stereo installer to break trim tabs etc.

 

A very good renowned ebay'er allwoodsaudio has chimed in their advice and says the Match 8 will not do. Since the Wagon has Burmester and 13 speakers it will need the Match 10 - or - they are recommending a better DSP 10 amp that has more power 100w x9 and 125w x 2.

They are also suggesting taking from the raw fiber signal gets costly and even though that is what they do for their competition GLC for my budget it's not really the way to go.

The Match 10 just discontinued and the new version is not going to be out until May/June.

So, I maybe looking at another DSP amp instead: ESX VE1300.11sp V2

allwoodsaudio has been GREAT at answering pre-sales questions

 

Oh and here are the 13 speakers in the Wagon with Burmester, courtesy allwoodsaudio ebay'er (did I already mention they have been so good at answering questions? ):

1 mid range in all 4 doors
1 tweeter in all 4 doors
1 speaker in center
2 subwoofers ( 1 driver side 1 passenger side )
2 speakers in the rear ceiling

 

I also have the 810 option.

What are your settings? Last night I played with some. Turning "Surround" on and choosing the front row has helped a lot. Previously it had "Stereo" and did not select any row of seating to be focussed.

Playing with the equalizer adding any bass, mid, treble was horrendous. Leaving bass at 0 and setting mid and treble at -2 was 'not bad'.

It still feels like all sound is coming from the windshield. I want to be enveloped.

 

For that kind of money I would also look at the JL Audio VXi 800/8. Integrated DSP and it is pretty simple to program once you start playing with the free JL App that you can download to a PC or Ipad. The other thing to be aware of with any Class D amp of this size is the amperage draw on your alternator. The ESX unit you reference draws 100A and the JL unit requires 80A. You probably have a 180A alternator in your car if I recall so that is a big draw on your electrical system. I think you would be fine until you add a dedicated Sub as that is what draws the majority of the current. Also, if you are taking speaker level signal from the factory Burmester amp and using that as your signal input for any amp you want to make sure the amp can handle the higher voltage inputs without frying anything. I know that JL stuff can take the higher voltage inputs but I would ask on the ESX unit if you are not going to pop for a Mobridge or NAV TV integration. I would not worry about a dedicated channel for all speakers, you can sum the front and rear door speakers along with the roof speakers, giving you 7-8 channels. 4 for the doors and roof, 1 for the center channel and 2 for the subs in the floor. Once you go to a dedicated Sub you can have one channel for the dedicated sub and two for the 2 8" mid bass drivers in the floor. It is all in how you wire up the speakers. Tons of resources on Youtube around summing speakers. For a plug and play sub it is spendy but I would consider the JL Audio ProWedge 10" self contained unit. I know I sound like a JL Audio fanboy but my experience with their gear has been exceptional.

 

Thank you @superpop your input is much appreciated. Maybe I am looking at this backwards.

Perhaps stage one is add the JL sub
and if that "wrecks it" add DSP amp
and then decide if I add speakers or not,
before returning it all to stock in 3 years to sell the car lol

 

Here is another option to consider. I would do the 10" version. Morel makes some nice gear and completely self contained. Depending on where your battery is, this should be very easy to install. It is pretty new but Crutchfield should have them soon. Morel also has MB specific upgrade speakers for the rest of our cars as well.

https://www.morelhifi.com/en/product...QotPoPgxCHkg6P

 

I have the regular Burmester option (no tweeters in the roof) and it sounded pretty good but I went down the route of replacing my speakers with a superior product. I went down the Blam route, replacing the footwell "woofers", the center dashboard dual-coil and tweeter + mid in all four doors. The part numbers were: KIT S 100N24+ (front and rear doors), MB100CENTER (dashboard) and MB 200 W (subwoofers. Installation was not particularly hard - plenty of room in the doors for the crossovers, the subwoofers and center speaker were drop-ins. The only thing that was difficult was the tweeters did not come with a "basket" that rotates and clips into the surround in the door grills. I designed and 3D printed a solution in nylon which fits perfectly. Happy to share the file if anyone decides to go down this route. Overall, there is a definite improvement in the audio quality and I am happy with the upgrade.

 

Thank you!

I was you-tubing active subs and JL makes some too.
Of course then scope creep happens and I'm looking at real boxes and a sub amp
I think there are more "issues" in the wagon than just adding bass, see next post

 

Thank you!

I played with the stock equalizer, Front/Rear row settings, Surround/Pure settings, and Balance Fade extensively actually paying attention to what sounded better to me.

I think the "problem" is no rear shelf speakers. As soon as I start fading to the rear it kind of starts to maybe sound better but the front drops off too much and the rear has zero speakers larger then 3.5" or 4" or whatever so it just... can't.. do it.

 

@superpop as I've been educating myself more your first post makes all the sense in the world now. It covered it all. Thank you with your patience as I caught up.