I need help. I am trying to install new x-drilled rotors. I removed the little torx screw, which came off real easy. I expected the rotors to be frozen on so I was ready to hammer away. I have sprayed penetrating oil too. I am using a 32oz hammer. I have tried now for 1 hour with no success. The old rotor is now all messed up from the hammer blows.
Does any one have any ideas to remove the rotor?
Does any one have any ideas to remove the rotor?
Super Member
Quote:
Does any one have any ideas to remove the rotor?
Seriously, no joke here, Do you have a torch? I simple propane one would work fine. Just start heating the center of the rotor around the hub. After less than a minute you should be able to pop the rotor with the hammer and the rotor will fall off.Originally Posted by gmotoring
I need help. I am trying to install new x-drilled rotors. I removed the little torx screw, which came off real easy. I expected the rotors to be frozen on so I was ready to hammer away. I have sprayed penetrating oil too. I am using a 32oz hammer. I have tried now for 1 hour with no success. The old rotor is now all messed up from the hammer blows. Does any one have any ideas to remove the rotor?
BTW, you might want to make sure you don't try and grab it as it will be warm.
Randy B
Randy B
You are the Man. It worked. Now I just hope with all the pounding the suspension parts i.e. bearing and rod ends are not comprised.
Many Thanks again
You are the Man. It worked. Now I just hope with all the pounding the suspension parts i.e. bearing and rod ends are not comprised.
Many Thanks again
MBWorld Fanatic!
Quote:
You are the Man. It worked. Now I just hope with all the pounding the suspension parts i.e. bearing and rod ends are not comprised.
Many Thanks again
I hope while you were going crazy with that torch that you didn't melt all of the grease from inside your hub bearings or melt the bearing seals... You should do yourself a favor and double check.Originally Posted by gmotoring
Randy BYou are the Man. It worked. Now I just hope with all the pounding the suspension parts i.e. bearing and rod ends are not comprised.
Many Thanks again
Should be good to go. As I heated the Rotor I kept the flame away from direct contact to the hub, I also checked the center hub and Cap and it was warmed up but I was still able to touch with out leaving skin. and I am sure during normal driving the hub gets a lot hotter than what I did.
Super Member
Quote:
If you were there for only a short period and moved the flame around to get the rotor warm, you will be fine. If you had kept it in one place for more than a count of ten, I would check the bearing grease.Originally Posted by gmotoring
Should be good to go. As I heated the Rotor I kept the flame away from direct contact to the hub, I also checked the center hub and Cap and it was warmed up but I was still able to touch with out leaving skin. and I am sure during normal driving the hub gets a lot hotter than what I did.
Otherwise, you did well!
BTW, you may want to get some anti-seize gel. Any autoparts store should sell it. It is zinc based and you spread on the inside of the new rotor where it touches the hub. This keeps from having to go through what you did.
http://www.permatex.com/products/aut...ubricant_a.htm
They sell this in a small tube rather than the big jug you see here.
Randy B
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