- Mercedes-Benz E-Class: How to Replace headlights with HID
Guide to diagnose trouble and recommended solutions
HID, fog lights, headlight install guide 211 E series may work on other series models
Oh and it's a 2003 E320 W211.
Lights->Lamp Circuit->manual
p.s. make sure the capacitor is install correctly.
It is Uni-direction. One end connected to positive and one end connected to negative.
I also have a 2003 model, I don't see how yours wouldn't work.
Last edited by no_clue; Jul 10, 2007 at 01:36 AM.
If that manual is on the same one as the fuse chart then i dont have it. Otherwise i'll look in the owners manual. And how would i turn that off anyway? Is it a fuse that i have to disconnect? Also, the capacitor is on the right way. i'm sure i got that much right.
P.S.
The switch on the left of the steering wheel has an "Auto" position. i don't believe that's DRL. In either case, whenever i test it i turn the Knob all the way to the right.
Your help is appreciated.
Last edited by SuperCarver; Jul 10, 2007 at 11:46 AM.
If that manual is on the same one as the fuse chart then i dont have it. Otherwise i'll look in the owners manual. And how would i turn that off anyway? Is it a fuse that i have to disconnect? Also, the capacitor is on the right way. i'm sure i got that much right.
P.S.
The switch on the left of the steering wheel has an "Auto" position. i don't believe that's DRL. In either case, whenever i test it i turn the Knob all the way to the right.
Your help is appreciated.
Look at those button on your left side of steering wheel. There should be "page icons". Play w/ that to go into menu.
Then go into "Lights".
In the sub menu of "lights" there is "Lamp current". Switch to "manual"
The system that i bought requires me to plug into only one of the factory harnesses and that will send the signal for both ballests to ignite. So if i bought another capacitor and plugged it into the factory harness that i won't be using, will that fool the system into thinking there's a bulb in it so that i won't have a warning for the left side bulb maulfunction appear?
The system that i bought requires me to plug into only one of the factory harnesses and that will send the signal for both ballests to ignite. So if i bought another capacitor and plugged it into the factory harness that i won't be using, will that fool the system into thinking there's a bulb in it so that i won't have a warning for the left side bulb maulfunction appear?
You bought a kit that only require one power input from either passenger or driver side?
MB has two separate current detector for the both headlight.
And NO!!!! you can't just install a capacitor on a UNPLUG headlight outlet!!!
Capacitor is NOT a resistor. It does NOT actually consume/dissapate voltage.
Even you can get a 55W (or higher) / 2.7 ohm rated resistor,
12V/2.7ohms=4.44amps (if we using 2.7ohms)
then 4.44amps * 12V = 53w (enough to fool ECU)
most likely it will be too hot to leave it anywhere close to your headlight housing.
What kind of kit did you get anyway? Want to post a pic? I look at the ebay "HID Kit" and almost all of them have separate ballast and power input.
Last edited by no_clue; Jul 11, 2007 at 01:50 AM.
Check it out. Hope this helps you help me. The suckass part about this is there's no turning back on the lights cuz i already modified them. So i'd really like to get them working without maulfunctions. So i'll take yet another trip to "The Shack" as i like to call it, and pick up a resistor for the side that isn't getting plugged into anything.
P.S.
When i put the Capacitor on, i got 2 wires, put the flat clips on one end to go into the factory harness. Then put the capacitor on those wires and then put another set of clips on the other end and then plugged the HID wire in. Just so that i don't break with the factory wire jacket if it didn't work and i don't have to work in a tight space. If it's a must at this time that i splice into the factory wires then i will, but i don't see the difference in adding 6" to it.
Last edited by SuperCarver; Jul 11, 2007 at 12:26 PM.
There is no other way I can think of besides modified the connector wire and install capacitor on each side ( step 2, photo )
p.s. if you do insist put on a resistor. Please install your old halogen bulb back and use Multimeter to meausre the amp and resistance of the line. Then maybe I could give you accurate info on which resistor to buy.
My guess is, even if you could get this "resistor", you will also need get a ceramic housing to put it in. ( *ceramic coated 10w/ 100ohm / 12V resistor reach 80F on surface, if 55W/ 3ohm/ 12V might easily pass melting point. There is also possibility that the heat will melt down your MB connector and result in short circuit)
Last edited by no_clue; Jul 11, 2007 at 02:53 PM.
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Let me see if I can explain this little easier for you...
The reason some kit come w/ the relay is due to some car equippied with small battery w/ less cranking amp that will not be able to perform "initial power up" (most 35W HID need approx. 85v~ 145v to ignite) from their system.
Relay ( in this application ) is generally designed to connected directly to your battery!!!
And I am not sure what you meant, but capacitor is NOT source of power. Think of the capacitor is a "little back up battery". That voltage is collected first into the capacitor and during "ignition" it will provide those extra power.
(Thanks Alan to find out the adequate size of the capacitor. Of course, you can get higher rated capacitor but it will take longer time to charge. Notice when you turn on your HID kit, it take approx half seconds to see it "ignite"?)
After ignited, HID will only require to 9~16V of power and take 2~4 seconds to be stablized. (that is also the reason HID can't not used as high light flasher. BiXenon able to flash is because of the moving flap, not because they can turn on and off.)
p.s I am afraid you are not very familiar w/ EE, but MAKE sure your ballast is properly insolated!!!!! (For safe side, I even have entire ballast sealed in rubber housing) DO NOT, I repeat DO NOT install it next to your ABS Control Module!!!!!!!!!
Last edited by no_clue; Jul 11, 2007 at 05:43 PM.
My apologies if i'm getting you fustrated about this.
Thanx a bunch.
My apologies if i'm getting you fustrated about this.
Thanx a bunch.
Sorry~~~~~~~~~
( you might already know from my sentence structure, verbs etc...)
In fact, I just wish everyone do it right and save money!!
p.s. Another function of capacitor is to maintain current stablity. Notice there are many capacitors on your computer motherboard? When excessive current (ECU senting surge) occur, it will simply pass through groud wire instead of designated device.
Let's take capacitor like a dual water container.
A. Water come into the inner tank.
B. Water pump to your house in stable pace, w/out overload your water pump or change pressure.
If all the sudden excessive water flow into the inner tank, it will spill out of inner tank and drain out to ground C.
Last edited by no_clue; Jul 11, 2007 at 06:37 PM.
Sorry~~~~~~~~~
( you might already know from my sentence structure, verbs etc...)
In fact, I just wish everyone do it right and save money!!
p.s. Another function of capacitor is to maintain current stablity. Notice there are many capacitors on your computer motherboard? When excessive current (ECU senting surge) occur, it will simply pass through groud wire instead of designated device.
NEVER mod/ splice your factory wires!
ABS is that little spider looking thing on your second pic.
Again, thanx for your help. Hopefully i can help someone the way you have.
Again, thanx for your help. Hopefully i can help someone the way you have.

p.s. post some pic of your headlight.
i bought a kit from xenondepot and it came with NO INSTRUCTIONS!!!! This is their signature kit too (with phillips ballasts & bulbs) not their cheaper kit. on top of that, it came with a harness that utilize a relay which made everything the more confusing. I was also getting frustrated because i couldn't find a positive terminal for the relay hook up. However after reading this and many other threads, I realized that a relay is not necessary so im going to modify the harness to go from OEM plug straight to ballast with a capacitor in the middle. Let's see if it'll work...
To all who's shopping for a kit, please don't fool yourself by buying the most expensive kit you can find and thinking it'll be worth the money. I spent 850 for 2 H7 kits (one for the e55 and one for my wife's slk350) when i could have went with 2 ebay kits for $250 or 2 waterproof kits from mobileHID for 500 total. If i were to do this again, i'd definitely opt for the ebay kits or the waterproof kit for peace of mind.
cheers
I was very surprised for a cheap HID kit that doesnt throw any codes and doesnt flicker
Last edited by Abboushi; Aug 3, 2007 at 02:28 PM.
Car:
Brown = negative (ground)
Since I haven't seen one w/ only one wire connection, take a pic of both side.
however on the wire from the car (pic one), I have no way to tell which one is positive. (you must get a multimeter from radioshack to make sure which lead is positive before proceed)
p.s. what model year of W211 is that? There are many people actually email me w/ their photo want me to id the lead, but I haven't seen one that colors looks like yours.
Last edited by no_clue; Aug 4, 2007 at 07:08 PM.






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