E-Class (W211) 2003-2009

Eclass battery tips...

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Old Jan 28, 2008 | 09:13 AM
  #1  
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03 Eclass, 03 BMW 06 Porsche Cayman S, 03 Harley Davidson "bored & stroked"
Eclass battery tips...

Have not driven the Eclass for over 2 weeks now, so Saturday i go in the garage to start and nothing, 1 malfunction message. So i jump start and make a quick round trip drive to Baltimore to help charge battery. I get back home and call MB Roadside assistance (i figure original OEM battery coming up on 5 years is probably time to replace), roadside gets there in about 30 minutes and checks the old battery, the guage shows 995 amps, the tech says its a 1000 amp battery, its ok but he will replace if i want but it should last 7-8 years. So i said dont replace. He gave me a couple of tips, 1 its not good to let car sit over 10 days without starting (especially in the winter), 2 the sensor on the windshield does more than just the wipers, he recommended put a cloth of the sensor if not driving the car becuase turning the lights off and on in the garage triggers the sensor and it starts powering up things on the car which may operate for 30 minutes thus draining the battery.... Oh by the way the replacement gel battery is around $300
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Old Jan 28, 2008 | 09:17 AM
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Good information
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Old Jan 28, 2008 | 09:48 AM
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Thanks for the heads up!
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Old Jan 28, 2008 | 11:10 AM
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Batteries

Hadn't thought about covering the sensor. My car does sit in garage for several weeks at a time in winter but didn't have any problems with my 01 E-class. IMHO and from running a fleet of vehicles over the years including my own cars I found that just replacing the battery every 4 years is the best insurance.

Most problems I ever had with cars, esp. gremlins, was due to the battery going past 4 or 5 years. In my 01 E-class I just had them change out the battery at 4 yrs. and I never had any problems - I also live 100 miles from dealer and a new battery just rules that out when diagnosing problems. New battery = cheap insurance.
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Old Jan 28, 2008 | 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by mtnbenzer
Hadn't thought about covering the sensor. My car does sit in garage for several weeks at a time in winter but didn't have any problems with my 01 E-class. IMHO and from running a fleet of vehicles over the years including my own cars I found that just replacing the battery every 4 years is the best insurance.

Most problems I ever had with cars, esp. gremlins, was due to the battery going past 4 or 5 years. In my 01 E-class I just had them change out the battery at 4 yrs. and I never had any problems - I also live 100 miles from dealer and a new battery just rules that out when diagnosing problems. New battery = cheap insurance.
Yep i agree, and stated basically the same to the Tech, he said the previous dry cells were a common battery, but 03 and later are actual MB batteries and are much better hence the 7-8 year life expectancy...
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Old Jan 28, 2008 | 04:06 PM
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Wait, about covering the sensors on the windshield... why? If the car is stored away within a garage, its already dark, atleast in my garage. By covering it with a cloth would seem to "blanket it", just as if it was in a dark garage. Or are you talking about a public parking garage where there may be intermitent lights, triggering that sensor?

BTW, I recently had a total/complete power loss, all electrical systems dead. My 2005 E320-CDI was alone in my garage for only 3 days without starting. Well, the local dealer assessed that voltage (charging) was too low, ie. was 13.4V. Dealer updated BCM SW and now voltage is at 14.0V. Odd that this power loss did not occur earlier on my 3 year old car.
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Old Jan 28, 2008 | 04:14 PM
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Covering sensors

I've been thinking about this idea of covering the windshield sensors which on my car E-550 are in front of rearview mirror. This seems unnecessary to me. I've never noticed any gizmo sounds running when I go into the garage, day or night. It can get bright as I have a garage window. Just seems unnecessary to me. Can you provide any bulletins/research on this? I do agree a car should be started and run more than 10 miles at least every two weeks.
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Old Jan 28, 2008 | 05:02 PM
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Or...put a Ctech charger on it every 10 days or so.
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Old Jan 28, 2008 | 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by seahonu
Wait, about covering the sensors on the windshield... why? If the car is stored away within a garage, its already dark, atleast in my garage. By covering it with a cloth would seem to "blanket it", just as if it was in a dark garage. Or are you talking about a public parking garage where there may be intermitent lights, triggering that sensor?

BTW, I recently had a total/complete power loss, all electrical systems dead. My 2005 E320-CDI was alone in my garage for only 3 days without starting. Well, the local dealer assessed that voltage (charging) was too low, ie. was 13.4V. Dealer updated BCM SW and now voltage is at 14.0V. Odd that this power loss did not occur earlier on my 3 year old car.
Charging voltage on my 07 Bluetec is 14.4V with daytime running lights switched on. This was the voltage displayed on the instrument cluster with vehicle parked, engine warm and running.
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Old Jan 30, 2008 | 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by seahonu
Wait, about covering the sensors on the windshield... why? If the car is stored away within a garage, its already dark, atleast in my garage. By covering it with a cloth would seem to "blanket it", just as if it was in a dark garage. Or are you talking about a public parking garage where there may be intermitent lights, triggering that sensor?
.
I'm talking about the garage at home, i'm always turning the lights on and off, we use the garage to go in and out of the house, and the other side has vehicles that are used daily so the lights are used frequently...
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Old Jan 30, 2008 | 04:13 PM
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While reviewing my new E211 training video for M-B technicians which I obtained through e- bay from my good friend in Hatay Turkey, I did happen to read that the windshield sensor has two segments. Some of the sensors detect moisture and control the windshiel wipers. The other (approx1/2) senses light and turns the daytime running lights to nightime. I have enjoyed the fact that the daytime lights automatically convert. I have been in rental cars with daytime lights and while driving at dusk, been unaware that I had no taillights on. It was interesting to note that the rear brake drying function is controlled by the wiper circuit. If the wipers are off, the drying function at the rear pads does not activate. I will lateral further nuggets as I progress in my training. PS This CD does appear to be a genuine M-B product.
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Old Jan 30, 2008 | 04:40 PM
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In your rental cars equipped with DRLs... you can always tell that the DRLs ONLY are on at night because you will have no lights on in the cluster. Those lights come on only when the Head and Tail (night time) lights are on. If the gauges are lit, then the full lights are on, not just the DRLs.

They do that so that you can't check your speed or gas. That way you will know to turn the lights on. If the cluster is lit, the full nite time lights are on.
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Old Jan 30, 2008 | 10:13 PM
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If the car is off and the lights come on or off in the garage, I doubt the car detects and does anything. It comes alive if the door is unlocked, door opened or trunk opened.

Anyone know anything more about this?
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Old Feb 1, 2008 | 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by ATS
If the car is off and the lights come on or off in the garage, I doubt the car detects and does anything. It comes alive if the door is unlocked, door opened or trunk opened.

Anyone know anything more about this?
Not true, this is per a MB tech, even a hard bump against the car will trigger things to power up
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Old Feb 5, 2008 | 06:29 PM
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Mine stays pretty quiet until the door opens.
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Old Feb 5, 2008 | 09:30 PM
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