DIY: Installing a new Changeover/Heater Control Valve
07-06-2011, 05:29 PM
#101
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'04 E500
changeover
I have the same issue with my car & am contemplating doing it myself vs. letting the stealer do it.
07-12-2011, 02:47 AM
#102
Senior Member
I had my heater valve replaced today on my 04 E500, but I am still experiencing a heating problem. I get cool air through the vents, and have to adjust the temperature above 85 degrees (F) before I start to feel any heat, and even then, it's not gradual. I'm use to my other cars getting warm above 72 degrees, and could swear this was not an issue a month ago (only had car past 2 months). Any other ideas about what may be wrong?
07-12-2011, 09:35 AM
#103
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2014 E550-sold 😩
^Did they check for any error codes before replacing the valve?
07-23-2011, 12:49 PM
#105
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2004 E 500
Much thank to all, I would agree that the wiper mechanicals should be removed after the cowling before getting to the valve removal. I would also suggest using soapy water to lubricate the connectors prior to reassembly.
All now works as it should!
All now works as it should!
08-03-2011, 02:31 PM
#106
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E500 2003 sport package, Black on black, Heated seats, original rims...
A/C ISSUES
I drive an E500 2003 and my a/c is blowing ice cold air in the right side of the car (front and back) and hot air in the left side all settings in the climate control are in max cold, in auto or manual...
Any ideas???
Any ideas???
08-30-2011, 12:17 AM
#109
thanks for the write-up... I just finished the procedure myself... take me about 2 hours to finish it up... the hardest thing for me is to remove that stock hose clamp... the needle plier just doesn't cut it... i need to use the channel lock plier... you have to move it back around 5 inches before it's loose.
Also, I broke 3 of the fastener, luckily I ordered 4 of them (2119880081 @ $1.65 each) along with the 4 rivet clip (1239900592 @ $0.90 each) and $30 for the control valve itself from getmercedesparts.com so I just replace everything with the new one. The coat hanger trick works great especially for the bottom outlet...
When installing a new control valve, I think it's much easier if you have the clip in the unlocked position, and install in this order per jeffsnavely instruction:
-electrical plug first
-large hose with hose clamp next (you need to be able to brace it against the driver's side of the car, against a tool handle etc).
-the two outlets towards the rear of the car next (leave the clips closed and just push them as mentioned about - it did take a lot of force to get them to click into place)
-reinstall rubber circular grommet
-engine bay hose (use your palm to push it against the valve)
Also, remember when you reinstall your wiper arm linkage.. make sure you install the electrical plug back first... I forgot about this one, I'm glad I have only fastened one bolt... if I already reinstall the whole thing, I will be really pissed. Carefully screw in the bolt with hand for your wiper arm linkage especially for the driver side... I dropped one of the bolt and I think it's stuck somewhere in the body chassis. I just use the wiper arm bolt first and get a new one tomorrow.
Anyway, I'm glad I have it replaced while it's still summer so I have heater for my car now instead of just cold air
EDIT: I just realized that I forgot to connect the outlet hose underneath the plastic trim panel, I was prepared to redo the whole thing again but then I realized I don't have to pop up the panel, I just look from the passenger side and slide the hose in! I tested it by pouring some water on the plastic panel to make sure it goes through the hose and drain from the side of the car... Also, before I install my wiper arm back in, I turn the wiper on and noticed that only 2 of the metal connectors rotates, the middle one remains static... I was kinda worry about it for a while but after reinstall everything, looks like that's just the way it is... i'm glad it's much easier to reinstall the wiper arm linkage without alignment issue, I used to have this problem with an Acura...
Also, I broke 3 of the fastener, luckily I ordered 4 of them (2119880081 @ $1.65 each) along with the 4 rivet clip (1239900592 @ $0.90 each) and $30 for the control valve itself from getmercedesparts.com so I just replace everything with the new one. The coat hanger trick works great especially for the bottom outlet...
When installing a new control valve, I think it's much easier if you have the clip in the unlocked position, and install in this order per jeffsnavely instruction:
-electrical plug first
-large hose with hose clamp next (you need to be able to brace it against the driver's side of the car, against a tool handle etc).
-the two outlets towards the rear of the car next (leave the clips closed and just push them as mentioned about - it did take a lot of force to get them to click into place)
-reinstall rubber circular grommet
-engine bay hose (use your palm to push it against the valve)
Also, remember when you reinstall your wiper arm linkage.. make sure you install the electrical plug back first... I forgot about this one, I'm glad I have only fastened one bolt... if I already reinstall the whole thing, I will be really pissed. Carefully screw in the bolt with hand for your wiper arm linkage especially for the driver side... I dropped one of the bolt and I think it's stuck somewhere in the body chassis. I just use the wiper arm bolt first and get a new one tomorrow.
Anyway, I'm glad I have it replaced while it's still summer so I have heater for my car now instead of just cold air
EDIT: I just realized that I forgot to connect the outlet hose underneath the plastic trim panel, I was prepared to redo the whole thing again but then I realized I don't have to pop up the panel, I just look from the passenger side and slide the hose in! I tested it by pouring some water on the plastic panel to make sure it goes through the hose and drain from the side of the car... Also, before I install my wiper arm back in, I turn the wiper on and noticed that only 2 of the metal connectors rotates, the middle one remains static... I was kinda worry about it for a while but after reinstall everything, looks like that's just the way it is... i'm glad it's much easier to reinstall the wiper arm linkage without alignment issue, I used to have this problem with an Acura...
Last edited by violato; 08-31-2011 at 12:25 PM. Reason: more info
08-31-2011, 07:53 PM
#110
Also, I realized I didn't move the old O-Ring from the old valve to the new one. I already throw the old one so I don't know if the O-Ring located inside the valve or around the tube that attached to the body. Can anyone clarify?
I will keep looking for leak in my car, if there's any then I will have to redo the whole job again T_T
I will keep looking for leak in my car, if there's any then I will have to redo the whole job again T_T
09-19-2011, 05:25 PM
#112
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2003 e500
does anyone still have the pictures for this project saved somewhere? if so kindly email
annobil_a@hotmail.com
thank you
annobil_a@hotmail.com
thank you
09-19-2011, 05:34 PM
#113
Member
think I'm just going to take mine to Blue Ridge MB. They will do it for 1.5 hours of time. Beats the hell out of some frustration for me. 
09-20-2011, 11:14 PM
#115
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2004 E320
does anyone still have the pictures for this project saved somewhere? if so kindly email
annobil_a@hotmail.com
thank you
annobil_a@hotmail.com
thank you
Sorry about that, I'll be uploading a DIY w/ the pictures in a PDF format by this weekend. Glad to see my DIY is still helping members out here.
09-26-2011, 06:05 PM
#116
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2004 E320
does anyone still have the pictures for this project saved somewhere? if so kindly email
annobil_a@hotmail.com
thank you
annobil_a@hotmail.com
thank you
10-05-2011, 10:15 AM
#118
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2014 E550-sold 😩
You may have a malfuntioning S.A.M. (driver's side) like me. See if you are getting codes to verify the problem.
10-05-2011, 10:32 AM
#119
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2004 E500 4MATIC
Will a standard code reader tell me if anything is wrong or do I need to go to the dealership and have them hook it up to a special computer to pick up the code??
10-05-2011, 11:06 AM
#120
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2014 E550-sold 😩
AFAIK it needs to be hooked up to Star Diagnostics.
10-06-2011, 11:03 AM
#122
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My cluster showed no malfunction warning. The two codes affecting the S.A.M. control over this changeover valve were picked up through Star Diag. I am still driving around without spending the $1,000 to replace the S.A.M. and just letting my rear occupants suffer
11-08-2011, 03:19 PM
#124
Planning on tackling this DIY this weekend. Socal's been getting some cold evenings these past few days, so of course this is when we need the heater the most....
Anyway, is the symptom of having a faulty heater control valve that the heater doesn't work, but that A/C does? Or does neither the heat or A/C work?
I ask because in my case, it seems the A/C still works, but the heater doesn't.
Anyway, is the symptom of having a faulty heater control valve that the heater doesn't work, but that A/C does? Or does neither the heat or A/C work?
I ask because in my case, it seems the A/C still works, but the heater doesn't.
11-08-2011, 04:18 PM
#125
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2005 E55 AMG
Planning on tackling this DIY this weekend. Socal's been getting some cold evenings these past few days, so of course this is when we need the heater the most....
Anyway, is the symptom of having a faulty heater control valve that the heater doesn't work, but that A/C does? Or does neither the heat or A/C work?
I ask because in my case, it seems the A/C still works, but the heater doesn't.
Anyway, is the symptom of having a faulty heater control valve that the heater doesn't work, but that A/C does? Or does neither the heat or A/C work?
I ask because in my case, it seems the A/C still works, but the heater doesn't.
