spinn

I had mine changed late last year and it was a different pn. The latest one for my E500 (from EPC) is A 008 431 38 12.

HUDS_E500

I will, They had it all day swapping it out but didnt get it done in time so sad sad weekend without my car

HUDS_E500

Ok ,

Just got it back.. the part # for the "re-designed" SBC is - 428951, Well its the number listed beside "Hydraulic Unit" I spoke to one of the guys in the shop and he said the difference was on the old one they circuit board was actually immersed in the brake/power steering fluid and the "newer" ones it is not in liquid. Wonderful idea, yeah lets put a circuit board in liquid.. Anyways, After batteries being replaced along with the SBC ALL IS WELL!

vettdvr

Thanks for the number. Did you happen to check your billing invoice to see if it was the same number?

Rasso01

A couple a week ago I got the red batteri alert - Visit workshop. I have read the 17 pages here in this forum. All great information and advices. But still stranded with the red alert.
- I have 12.3 v on main batteri. Its a genuine MB batteri 6 months old. Trickle charged for 8 hours.
- I have bought a new aux Varta batteri. The one i my car was the original one. 8 Years old. It was still showing 12.6 v. But I decided to switch to a new one just in case. I filled the acid an trickle recharge for 2 hours.
In idle the alternator gives 12.7 to 13 v over 1000 rpm its raising to a 14v max.

But I still got the red allert sometimes both in the morning and during the day. But not always. Maybe 2 out of 5 times.
Any help will be appriciated.

By the way, i have read that you should turn on the lights, fan, defrost, heat etc. for 2 minutes after changing the aux batteri, beforce starting the car. - why is that ?

vettdvr

It could be as simple as bad brushes in the alternator not carrying the heavier loads. have you run a load test on the charging system?

HUDS_E500

Yeah i agree.. a good voltage meter and knowing how to use it is an essential item for these cars.. I checked mine, while running and when not to make sure my alternator was pushing out the voltage.. you can pick up a decent Fluke or amprobe brand meter on eBay for not that much $, used ones of course.


Hmm.. there is a ton of numbers.. lol.. they are shifted too so doesnt really help.. Or if you could tell me what im looking for.. but i see that number listed beside this description 428591 HYDRAULIC UNIT - BRAKE SYSTEM (SBC) R & R/ REPL. IF NEC. 2097 WM08. there is allot of codes on this invoice..

HUDS_E500

i scanned it..

Rasso01

How do I run a load test test? - Bad brushes, is that a DIY job?

vettdvr

thanks the invoice confirmed the new part number.

If you don't know how to load test the charging system I would recommend you take it somewhere. Brushes are possible to repair but I normally replace the alternator vs doing a brush replacement. By replacing the entire part vs replacing one component the reliability will be higher.

Rasso01

OK thanks a lot for the answers. I will take it to a test shop.


Regards Soren - Denmark

Alvin11

Hi check the wiring loom to and from the aux battery as this was broken in my E320 and caused many hours of frustration, and ultimently money

Rasso01

Thanks for the tip - I will check

Regards Soren

Bigben97

Another satisfied member. My wife's car got the red warning a few days ago. I grabbed the Interstate battery mentioned earlier in this thread, $88 out the door. It was sealed in October so I only lost a couple months vs. messing around with the batteries you have to seal yourself and charge for less than $20 more.

I didn't disconnect the main battery for the install. I did tape the + while I had the battery removed. The old battery tested to 9.8 V so I knew I was bad. The Interstate was the exact size and even accepted the OEM screws in the battery lead cables. Overall this swap took less than 20 minutes of work. I didn't have to reset the ESP or windows either.

Very happy I found this thread.

Green E-300 DT

It's like everything else: Once you have done it, it is so easy.

I too am thankful for this thread. It really helped me to do a good job
and saved me a ton of money also! For that I am indeed thankful.



DHG

ttawd

Does a 2008 E320 Bluetec W211 have an auxilliary battery in the engine bay under the cabin filter? I cannot see a battery in this spot. See attached picture.

Thanks,
-Mike-

Celicasaur

I'm pretty sure the facelift models didn't have the second battery, nor the SBC system (don't quote me on that though).

Green E-300 DT

Do not know for sure, but I think the last SBC system was on the MY 2006, therefore
one could assume that there was no need for the little 'back-up' battery.

I'd say there probably is not one!



DHG

fredericke320

Feb 2013 - I had the RED battery light on and thanks to the posts here, I fixed the problem. Originally, I purchased a BS14 from Sears, but I found the posts to have the connection on the front, and I didn't want to mess with the 'you fill it' chemicals. The connections on the original Mercedes battery are on the TOP. So I did a little research and found www.batterymart.com. There I found the YTX14-BS AGM maintenance free battery. This battery cost me $55.95 including shipping. I removed the cabin filter, disconnected the MAIN battery negative lead, and then removed the auxiliary battery by disconnecting the negative, followed by the positive. I then installed the The YTX14-BS - it was a PERFECT FIT. NOTE: the Mercedes battery has a threaded connection terminal, and the replacement battery terminal has no threads. NO PROBLEM, simply use the nuts provided with the replacement battery, and they screw onto the Mercedes leads with ease. After I secured the auxiliary battery with the securing nut/connection, I then connected the negative lead on the main battery - VOILA!, the RED warning light was off when I put the key into the ignition. I'm not sure what the dealer would have charged, but it would have been much more than $55.95 and about thirty minutes of my time. Thanks for all the posts, as they have made this RED light annoyance a very easy fix (Not to mention the braking system is now safer again with the battery back-up!)

Green E-300 DT

Made me feel good when I did the same thing.
I have heard that dealers charge upwards of $200 (or more!) for what we both did.

I'm about to do my own brake pads as I have the red warming.
Pads are less than $120 for both sets and I know a place that will install 'em for $100.

No more grimy black brake dust I hope.

Having a CDI can be expensive to repair IF you have to go to the dealer, but not if
you know where to get the parts and the right independants to do the work.

Wonder how much renewing the pads would cost at a dealer?



DHG

rkvucynq24

thats a good read

ridingae500

I agree with your reply, I think I will pay the extra $$ to the dealer for the parts. Now on the otherhand my 99 Tahoe parts will come from Autozone!

Green E-300 DT

It is, after all YOUR MONEY, and IF you want to simply throw it away, that's your business for sure!

MBZs are no different than Chebbys. It is that most people who have them simply are afraid to tackle
these relatively simple jobs because they do not understand what is going on.
Once you know, and all you need to know is right here in this topic, it is so easy, it is unbeliveable!

After reading post number 444 plus so many others including mine, why would you NOT do it yourself?
Have you so much extra dinero that you cannot be bothered to save some when it is so simple?
If a senior citizen at age 76 can do it, why can't you?

There is one step that fredericke320 performed that is not really necessary,
but he figured that it was, so that is okay.
That step is removing the ground from the main battery which can cause all kinds of
extra steps such as resetting things like the radio, etc. or so I have heard?
I simply taped off the positive ( + ) cable after disconnecting it from the aux. battery.
That step is absolutely manditory IF the rear (main) battery is still connected.

Simply think of how much satisfaction you will gain after the job
is done (by YOU) perhaps saving $200 or maybe even more?

These batteries are available everywhere, so there is no problemo getting the part!
Autozone, Wally Mart, your friendly Harley-Davidson dealer plus Pep Boys just to mention a few

It is, after all, up to you of course.

Good luck.



DHG

wjcandee

Thank you so much to everyone for the advice in this thread. I just replaced the auxiliary battery in our 2004 Mercedes E500 by myself, and with your help it was a cinch! I also found a video on youtube where a guy replaces his cabin air cleaner, so I could see how he removed the plastic cover, which was much easier than it looked.

I used this one from Amazon, which seemed highly-recommended: It is on sale this month at an additional $15 off, so the delivered price with Amazon Prime was a good one. I first tried to find the Sears, NAPA, etc. batteries locally, which was a total waste of time; nobody had that size in stock, so it was just as quick to get it from Amazon overnight for $3.99 with prime. It's exactly the same size and specs, and is an AGM battery. So the whole thing came to $65.94 with NY State Tax and overnight shipping.

A couple of thoughts. First, this battery accepted the bolts already in the wires no problem; I just had to get the little square nuts out of the parts bag that came with the battery and position them under the terminal blocks before I moved the little red and black cap things from the old battery to the new.

Second, you do have to put the acid in the Yuasa, but it is really safe and easy. You pull a protective strip off of the acid bottle assembly and set that strip aside because it is also the covering for the battery cells; once you put it on the battery, the battery is permanently-sealed. Once you pull that strip off, each tube in the assembly has a little foil piece on it which will be punctured by the cell caps. So all you do is take the whole assembly, invert it, position it over all the cells, and press down firmly; the cells puncture and the acid flows in. You are supposed to let it sit like that for 20 minutes to make sure all the acid drains out, but it's really done in a couple of minutes. Then you let it sit for another 30, charge it (which you might not have to do) with the caps loosely on it, then seal it up and you are good to go.

Third, one other very useful piece of info in this long thread has to do with how the Aux Battery charges. My old AUX battery was right on the edge of activating the RED battery light; if I drove a lot in one day, I would get a few starts where the light wouldn't come on. However, after the car sat for a few hours, it would come on when I did the next start. What confused me, however, was that when I drove the car for an hour and then stopped, the battery didn't seem to charge much. It was when I would make a bunch of smaller trips in a day that the light would go out; that didn't make sense until I read this thread. Turns out that the AUX battery will be charged only if the electrical system is producing more than a certain amperage and, more importantly, it only charges for twenty (20) minutes per activation of the ignition. So...on any trip over 20 minutes, it won't get the benefit of the car running longer, unlike the rear battery. My series of 15-minute trips actually charged the aux battery better than a 1.5 hour trip. Of course, now that I have replaced it, no problems. However, if you are going to put the battery in the car without charging it first, don't expect a long trip to charge it up. A series of little trips would do a better job. Charging it first, of course, is best.

I can't believe how easy it was to do this, although I was incredibly-mindful of making sure that I put the red cap on the positive terminal; wouldn't want to get that backwards!

Green E-300 DT

Not only the satisfaction from doing it yourself but also being satisfied with saving what,
a couple of hundred dollars over what any dealership would have charged you?
Your job would have been even easier had you gotten a battery that was
already filled with acid from the factory and also already fully charged.

As my daughter is always saying to my grandson, 'good-job'!



DHG