A bad rim can look perfect but still cause a vibration. Been there, done that... to my complete disbelief in what the tech was telling me, but changing the rim eliminated the problem 100%.

 

Well i did just change the tires, but i just cant explain the vibration up hill. Actually the vibration did start a day after the tires were put on, but in my opinion, it may be just co-incidental that it started then. But still after changing the tires, it still makes the rumble. Down hill the car runs perfect, so wouldn't a bent rim still shake down hill? That's why i'm leaning more toward the drive train. I'm thinking maybe the rear differential because the vibration gets more annoying when turning on a road. I dont see any fluid leaking, but at the same time, my tranny isn't feeling right either, it shifts a bit hard. Keep in mind that it vibrates crazy like this only when i'm above 35-40mph+. Could this be the gycol contamination thing? I checked with the DTB Konigster sent me, but i don't have a radiator with the "Valeo" branding sticker on it, and i couldn't identify the connections on my radiator as in the DTB. Plus, when i went to go look for the tranny filler tube, the red cap that says "do not remove" is not there - and hasn't been since i bought the car. So that tells me the tranny was serviced, right? I wish i did more research about this car. I've had all the problems..you name it, i had it . I feel like writing a letter to dam*n MB, but they wont listen.

 

Check your flex joint. It takes the place of a u joint. If you hit the axle enough to bend the rim the shear forces on the drive line might have torn the flex joint. This might be your problem. Easy to inspect after you have lifted the car. Look for tears or rips expecially on any bolts where the joint is attached to the mounting surfaces. We use a lot of these joints in paper manufacturing between pumps and motors to reduce vibrations. I have never taken apart a MB flex joint but have done many on industrial applications for about 30 years.

 

A few weeks ago, I reported that my vibration problem was solved....I thought the bad transfer case was the culprit. Wrong!

The problem resurfaced....vibration coming through seats during the first few miles of driving after car sat overnight. After multiple trips to dealer, we concluded that tires were flatspotting (new Bridgestone Potenza 960AS). I should have taken the advice of Baloo on this forum and returned the tires under the 30 day warranty.

Luckily, the tire store agreed to take the tires back for full refund after two months and 2000 miles. I now have Michelin Pilots and things seem much better. I'll be more convinced after a few more morning drives.

Baloo, thanks for your advice!

 

See post #22. I learned also and ONLY use Michelins.

 

I just went to my very reliable tire supplier and he check the cupping going on on my tires and I told him I want 4 new Michlen's and he said he thought the Brigestone Pole Position was just as good a tire at a lot less cost. I have read most of the posts on tires and it seems people are very happy with the Pilots and those limited folks who have Brigestone are pretty happy with them too.

 

I heard all that who ha also. I ran on Brigestone and they cupped. Look at the tire he has, "I'll bet it says "made in Japan" in the side wall.

Buy the Michelins....

 

There's a reason you only see a "limited" number of posts from people with Bridgestones.

Trust us, go with the Michelins.

 

Thanks for the posts. But does anyone know, does the tire quality cause the cupping or is there some other reason for it?

 

What you are asking for is propritery information. But from my research I "think" this is the difference in tire construction. 17" tire size only

Most "conventional" tires will weave the belts then cut to length/and splice. Michelin uses a "non-conventional" method of weaving a circle belt without splice. The rubber mold hides the splice and produces a "round" tire. This way you don't notice the splice, but if you look at the side wall's you might see a dimple.

The Michelin method uses a continus circle method much like weaving a basket which procduces a circular belt with no splice.

I think what happens is the splice creates a harmonic vibration in the tire which results in the cupping. Granted this is only theory but I have done substantial digging.

Now for more $.02 worth. Look closely at the tires you want to buy for "made in Japan". It is my theory that all of these tires are made with the same method but different molds at the same factory. This way they can reduce the manufacturing cost.

Michelin's and Conti's are not made in Japan, at least the ones I have seen. They use a different method of construction.

Couple harmonics with the suspension and you could have the tire cupping.

Just yesterday I saw a pickup with same size tires (made in japan) for sale in the bed. They were cupped out on the edge also. I think cupping is a serious issue but many people put this size tire on Corvettes etc and expect tire noise or due to (wheel slip by agressive driving they wear out before cupping is serious.

If you observe other cars in the parking lot and see these 17" tires look at the brand and for cupping. You might be suprised what you see.

I am also tired of hearing "good as Michelin", I don't buy that song and dance. I only buy Michelins' now.

Remember this is all my opinion and what I have found from some research so it is ok if you don't agree with this. Everyone is free to believe what the dealer says or not says and buy what tire they chose. But one thing to consider I don't profit from this information. Ask yourself. Does the dealer profit? You decide.!

I ran Bridgestones for 14,000 miles on my E500 and the noise was so loud I could not have a conversation. I pulled the tires with Lots of tread and gave them to a corvette race driver who used them on the race track.

The new Michelins now have 12,000 miles, wear even and radio volume is back to normal.