007_e350

so I bought the Posi Quiet pads and OEM rotors ... Came home, loosened nuts on the rear driver side wheel, jacked it up - took the top nut out and screwed the "alignment bolt" in, then removed all bolts (4 more) ... but the wheels wont come off ...... struggled, tried to rotate but invain .... then put everything back lowered the car and repeated the process on passenger side (rear) ... same darn thing .... .it wont come off ........................ HELP

amdeutsch

Wack it from the inside with a rubber mallet. It'll come off.

MBNUT1

Sounds like the wheel is rusted to the hub. I would try tapping it off from behind the wheel with a rubber mallet.

MBNUT1

Great minds think alike at the same time!

Benz-O-Rama

I normally donkey kick the crap out mine to break them loose when they're seized on there. Works every time.

007_e350

I finally had the alignment fixed ... so was cautious not to strangle or force it .. but I guess thats the only way out

Another question:
the SBC pump has a large electrical bus connected to the pump, so how do we disconnect the bus ? I tried lifting the top part and it kinda declipped but it still wont come out ??
Do I need to bleed the lines too while changing brake pads? I dont have the power tool to bleed ... Is there a way around it

thank you

Marshall_K

+1
just watch it that you're ready to catch the wheel

Clinton Horn

I have to beat the wheels off with a mallet every time I rotate tires. Makes you real confident about changing a tire on the expressway in the rain doesn't it? Also, that trunk jack needs to be on concrete / asphalt if you are going to donkey kick the wheel. I think the wheel is so closely machined to the hub that the slightest corrison welds them on. They will come off, just be careful.
As for the brake fluid. Unless you have added fluid during the gradual wear of the pads, the reservoir should have enough capacity to recapture the fluid that will be returning from the slave cylinder(s). I think most people make do with a "C" clamp. I have forced the pads open by hand but it takes a lot of pressure. Take the old pad that faces the slave cylinder. Use a c clamp on the back of the cylinder and against the pad surface. GRADUALLY tighten the clamp and the brake fluid will return up the lines into the reservoir. If you run out of capacity in the reservoir, remove some with a hypodermic or turkey baster. It is not a difficult job.
You did not ask but the wear sensors are a one shot item. They are delicate and easily damaged. Pay particular attention to which ones come off where. The two sides are different? and one is alos requires for the rear (passenger side, I think)


PS- My older "E" has double five spoke wheels (16"). They have slots betwee the hub and wheel that will allow you to insert a straight blade screwdriver, tap it in slightly. Go around the hub and repeat. This helps release the wheel and causes no visible damage. Don't beat it in, all at one position as this will cause the wheel to misalign on the hub and foul.

nikon

Excuse my ignorance, I've not done the brakes yet, but I have heard that pressing the caliper cylinder in with a c clamp with damage some kind of a valve in the sbc unit?

Clinton Horn

There is enough ignorance to go around. When I am sure, I will say so. In this case, I am not. It may be that you can damage the pump by backfeeding the fluid. I have done only the rears on our car but I used the c clamp with no apparent damage. I did disconnect the pump as was recommended by numerous people. By the way, the caplug that connects that huge harness to the rear of the pump is so stiff that getting it to disengage is difficult. Mine has a wire clamp very close by so not much wire to work with. If and when you do get it loose, stick a non conductor in between the plug and the socket otherwise it may short out. I used a piece of high density foam. Maybe some one else can address the check valve concern?

vettdvr

Pushing old fluid back into the system has the potential to do some damage to the brake system.

This can be prevented by applying a slight pressure on the caliper piston and then loosen the bleed valve about 1/4 turn. Tighten the clamp and push the piston into the bore and allow the old fluid to vent out of the bleed screw. When the piston seats tighten the bleed screw. If you never let pressure off with the bleed valve open you won't get air into the system and won't need to bleed the system. You will need to add fluid to the master cylinder to replace what you vented out. USE DOT 4+ MB approved fluid for the SBC braking system. If you use other fluids you will contaminate the system and void the warranty on the SBC system.

W211 Ryda

You gotta post a vid of this!!!!

petrolhead

I find a smear of copper grease on the mating surface of the wheel prevents it seizing on, the 2 dissimilar metals like to react otherwise

moparrbust

Here's another; less harsh, way of removing a rusted on wheel. Remove 4 of the 5 lug bolts and HALF loosen the last one(all while wheel is jacked up and off the ground). Then lower the jack so the weight of the car is slowly added to the wheel and it will "pop" loose so you can jack it up again and remove the final lug bolt and wheel.

mcleantmw

I've also used that approach, when necessary, but I take all the lug nut out. I just let the vehicle down slightly to put a little pressure on the tire/wheel and it will pop. But first I try kicking the tire on one either side with my foot while sitting on the ground.......gets a stronger kick than the donkey kick!

007_e350

I finally changed the rear brake pads - so far no errors seen!

The stealer was ripping me off .... Rotors were perfect - I had purchased Centric rotors but didnot change em .... Stealer was chargin me $1500 for rear pads, rotors & bleedin, I got the job done in 4 hrs & under 100 bucks

I rented this tool from AutoZone to push the caliper back in, glad I had this tool or it would've been another 2 hours. the tool is basically two pad shaped pieces on a lug, you insert it in between the housing and unscrew it - the tool pushed the piston back in, you take it out and insert Brake Pad w/sensor & the other brake pad (after removing the bracket) ... Its a little hard to put the bracket back on but not impossible.

bolted the caliper back on and now the testing piece

I noticed, when I unlocked the door -pads came close to rotors in 2 steps. then when brakes were pressed, the pads gripped rotors - I inspected with a screw driver and the contact was even - just to make sure

Once done, there was a shur shur shur shur sound coming from the passenger rear side ... this apparantly went away after couple of abrupt stops .... the final brake that I hit was the hardest - there was a burning smell after that ... not sure if thats normal / I'll check it out again .... Is this normal ? Why didn't this burning smell come from the driver side rear ?? I think I need to recheck the outer pad's bracket fitting - any suggestions ?

I did notice the CV Boots (rear) are about to crack .. that will be the next DIY - any existing DIY write-ups on this ?

vettdvr

I am glad it worked out for you . I found out the same thing. My rotors didn't need changing either. I have a new pair still in the box. I really believe changing pads early and rotors will run 100000 miles based on the wear I see on mine. I found that the MB really isn't more difficult than most other cars. The dealers usually want to add the fear factor by "we changed all the sensors too". The sensors are just a loop of copper wire in plastic inserted into the pad that gets cut when the pad wears.

The smell might have been stuff on your hands that got on the rotor or pads just burning off. If you have no more noise, odor or alarms, drive on cheaply. The fronts are pretty easy to do also,, IMO.

007_e350

Thanks vettdvr. However, I did push back the fluid using a clamp - no damage so far, Is there anything to check ?
I need to do cv boots, any suggestions on how to replace those ? Thanks for all your help!

vettdvr

I have done cv joints and boots on cadillacs but no MB's The design is straight forward. You have to remove the center axle nut and top of the swing arm to move the spindle assembly out of the way. Then there is a lock tap inside the differnetial that holds the shaft in place. You will apply pressure on the cv joint shaft to pop it out of the diff. Sometimes I replace the diff. axle seal.

Now for the rebuild of the shaft that is another issue and I would reco you take that part to a shop to rebuild the shaft assembly or buy a new shaft.

Reason special tools in MOST cases to intall a new boot. You can disassembly the unit but specials lubes and tools make it more difficult. Doesn't mean you can't do it just more effort.

I will check my tech manuals for the MB CV joints . Later.!

formerSaabist

I read once that another car company recommended loosening the bolts and then making a sharp turn in a parking lot and driving in a circle once and possibly driving in a circle in the other direction. The weight shift will break the wheel loose. Don't loosen too much.

vettdvr

I have the procedure for the axle removal to get to the boots. PM your email and I will send you a copy.

jerome8283

You guys saved me a lot of aggravation and possibly money. I got a flat and had to take my wheel off. It would not come off so I searched the board and came across this thread and followed this method and it worked!!!
Thanks!