Where are you guys tapping in for subs?
#1
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Where are you guys tapping in for subs?
I'm currently tapped into the sub output on the rear deck but since it has a cross over, it makes it a pain to tune my sub so I have to turn of all crossover on my amp and make it a pass through.
Where can I tap in for full range output?
Where can I tap in for full range output?
#2
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2007 A8L 4.2
(+)Yellow / Brown-Yellow(-) and (+)Orange/Brown-Orange(-) will tap into the sub wires out of the AGW. It would be logical to assume that they would be filtered for the lower frequencies since they feed the sub.
(-)Brown-Pink / Pink(+) Left Rear Woofer and (-)Brown-White / White(+) for Right Rear Woofer, rear door group, so I would assume that those will give you full range.
This is according to the WIS documentation. Give it a try and see what you get, let me know, I am planning on adding a sub soon.
(-)Brown-Pink / Pink(+) Left Rear Woofer and (-)Brown-White / White(+) for Right Rear Woofer, rear door group, so I would assume that those will give you full range.
This is according to the WIS documentation. Give it a try and see what you get, let me know, I am planning on adding a sub soon.
#3
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09 E320 Bluetec
thanks
#4
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I used to have an IDmax 12 until I killed it a few weeks ago. I picked up a 10w7 powering with my current jl 500/1 and built my box yesterday.
I used to be skeptical with the hype but I'm very impressed with just a single 10. It hits just as hard as 2 entry level 12 on a much cleaner scale. That's about all I did to my system. I kept everything stock harman kardon even the mids. The JL have input sensor that turns on the amp without a remote wire which simplifies everything.
I used to be skeptical with the hype but I'm very impressed with just a single 10. It hits just as hard as 2 entry level 12 on a much cleaner scale. That's about all I did to my system. I kept everything stock harman kardon even the mids. The JL have input sensor that turns on the amp without a remote wire which simplifies everything.
#6
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2007 A8L 4.2
Some Kenwoods (not eXcelons) also have it (I sell a ton of them), so you can use either the wired turn on/off (remote), or the sensor turn on/off.
The sensor works by turning on the amp when it senses a signal (sound) on the high level input (not the RCA's). In our cars, that is what you would be feeding the amp, so the wired turn on (remote) would not be necessary. Once you shut off the stereo (or car), the amp turns itself off after a certain amount of time, because no more signal is present. If use a high-to-low level converter so you can feed the RCA inputs on the amp, then it will not work.
So.... amps with high level inputs AND sensing turn on are ideal for our cars.
The sensor works by turning on the amp when it senses a signal (sound) on the high level input (not the RCA's). In our cars, that is what you would be feeding the amp, so the wired turn on (remote) would not be necessary. Once you shut off the stereo (or car), the amp turns itself off after a certain amount of time, because no more signal is present. If use a high-to-low level converter so you can feed the RCA inputs on the amp, then it will not work.
So.... amps with high level inputs AND sensing turn on are ideal for our cars.
#7
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It all depend on the amp, JL amps have it on the low sensor input as well. I have mine going through a low level converter and then into the amp.
Keep all the crossover flat or off, I find the sub to sound the cleanest this way.
Keep all the crossover flat or off, I find the sub to sound the cleanest this way.
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#8
Thx for the responses...
I'm thinking about getting the JL Audio G6600 amp. Channel 1-4 for the speakers and 5-6 bridged for the JL 10w1 sub. So, I shouldn't need to remote line then? Do I need a capacitor? I am clueless....
I'm thinking about getting the JL Audio G6600 amp. Channel 1-4 for the speakers and 5-6 bridged for the JL 10w1 sub. So, I shouldn't need to remote line then? Do I need a capacitor? I am clueless....