Dead End with Tranny
I have 120K miles, the valeo radiator, and the old tranny module that you have to order from Germany.
Here's what i did:
Performed Glycol test @ dealer - negative, no glycol
Changed tranny fluid - problem persists
Changed Valve body and wiring to TCM as recomended by dealer - problem persists
Changed Tranny Control Module (programmed in Germany) yesterday - problem persists
After i changed the Valve body, i bought to another dealer and some code came up as the speed coming in from the front does not match the speed sensor in the rear. Told me it was the "conductor plate on the valve body". I told him i just changed the valve body and he said i would then need a new tranny. I got one more opinion that it would be the TCM.
My problem is that i cant believe i need a new tranny at 120,000 highway miles- ON A MERCEDES!!!! That along with no glycol and no electrical problems. So if anyone here has an idea on what this could be, i would greatly appreciate it.
-Nik
Last edited by MercFiveHundred; Jun 17, 2009 at 04:26 PM.




Last edited by mcleantmw; Jun 17, 2009 at 10:34 PM. Reason: clarification
2003 E500 and reliability would be oxymoron.
I have the 04 E320. Is there any significent difference in the reliability between your 03 E500 and my car? What are some of your common components to the E320 that were bad that I should keep an eye on? Thanks!
Trending Topics
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
. 85000 miles and I too are about $20 in repairs with a long list. ball joints, air springs, sbc failures to name just a few off the top.
The suspension set-up is the same (except for the Air struts), so you will prolly need to do the lower ball joints and thrust arms before the 100k mile mark. Your front battery should also be due for a change. Stereo updates - make sure you have them all. My turning signal switch along with the rewiring of the headlight turning signals. Door lock "pogo stick". Window actuator. Heater change over valve (only cold air coming thru vents). Engine mounts. I've heard that changing the spark plugs at around 80K is not a bad idea. AND DON'T FORGET TO CHANGE YOUR TRANNY OIL!!! LOL
SBC is a problem - but not on my car -yet! Tires have to be Michelin, Continental, or another high quality equivalent.
Last edited by MercFiveHundred; Jun 19, 2009 at 08:35 PM.
Your right ... the ball joints must be a chronic problem for the E. I wonder if I have to replace them again at 120K miles. The dealer also checked the transmission a year ago. Maybe I should change the transmission oil now at 65K miles just in-case.
Thanks again!





**Update** - when i remove the battery to "try" and reset bad codes it runs "better" the first run but returns to it's crappy self. Could this still be electrical? MAF? Spark Plugs? It seems kind of die/sputter when i come to a stop but idles ok. I removed one of the plugs but it looks like normal wear for 120,000. It's black, black...





Ya, these can be really temperamental, that's the problem with these things. I took my car twice to the dealer about the tranny. They said they could not duplicated. After it happened where the tranny just broke down, the management and the dealership tried blaming me as saying I contaminated the thing myself.




