HIDExtra - H7 8000K - perfect HID upgrade - no cutting/modifying - my experience
07-14-2009, 02:05 AM
#1
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HIDExtra - H7 8000K - perfect HID upgrade - no cutting/modifying - my experience
Okay,
Anyone on the fence about getting HID's, here's my experience. I purchased the HIDExtra lights which are advertised on this forum for pretty much the lowest price you'll find for these type of lights. I went with the recommended H7, 8000K which are extremely bright and give a whitish/pale blue tint.
First HIDExtra ships their stuff USPS in a plain cardboard box, nothing fancy. You get all the standard stuff to install your lights which I won't go into here since there's already a great post on this anyway in this forum (it's what I used to guide me in my install).
So, here's the good and the bad. The good is, the install really is simple everything from installing wires into ballasts and running the power leads to the original sockets is pretty much a no-brainer. The real challenge is the lame metal bracket used to hold the H7 HID bulb. First there is a rubber gasket that covers the base of the bulb and makes it a bit thick to fit into the stock metal bracket up against the base of the HID bulb. In fact, on the second bulb, I ended up slightly cutting the rubber gasket (hope that won't leave any lingering issues) as I forced the bracket onto the HID bulb base. Once you get get these two matched up, it's off to placing it into the lense socket. Good luck here. it took me at least 20 minutes each side of cursing, and fiddling to finally get it to fit into the socket.
So..that's the bad. Believe it or not, that's the only bad in this installation. If anyone has a better way of installing these lame brackets to HID bulbs and getting the assembly into the lense socket, I'm all ears.
One final note, HIDExtra will offer you a 'bypass' wire with the kit for free. It's basically a wire that has what appears to be about 5 or 6 capacitors installed in series onto it. Before I even turned on these lights, I did install this bypass wire which you place into the ballast. Basically, the HID light will turn on, then off immediately. I removed the wire and ran the stock wiring and 'voila' lights turned on, no flickering and no warning lights on the dashboard. At least in my case, a 2004 W211 Estate Wagon, you don't need this bypass wire.
I do hope these lights and ballasts last the life of my car.
For now, I give HIDExtra a 9/10.
Anyone on the fence about getting HID's, here's my experience. I purchased the HIDExtra lights which are advertised on this forum for pretty much the lowest price you'll find for these type of lights. I went with the recommended H7, 8000K which are extremely bright and give a whitish/pale blue tint.
First HIDExtra ships their stuff USPS in a plain cardboard box, nothing fancy. You get all the standard stuff to install your lights which I won't go into here since there's already a great post on this anyway in this forum (it's what I used to guide me in my install).
So, here's the good and the bad. The good is, the install really is simple everything from installing wires into ballasts and running the power leads to the original sockets is pretty much a no-brainer. The real challenge is the lame metal bracket used to hold the H7 HID bulb. First there is a rubber gasket that covers the base of the bulb and makes it a bit thick to fit into the stock metal bracket up against the base of the HID bulb. In fact, on the second bulb, I ended up slightly cutting the rubber gasket (hope that won't leave any lingering issues) as I forced the bracket onto the HID bulb base. Once you get get these two matched up, it's off to placing it into the lense socket. Good luck here. it took me at least 20 minutes each side of cursing, and fiddling to finally get it to fit into the socket.
So..that's the bad. Believe it or not, that's the only bad in this installation. If anyone has a better way of installing these lame brackets to HID bulbs and getting the assembly into the lense socket, I'm all ears.
One final note, HIDExtra will offer you a 'bypass' wire with the kit for free. It's basically a wire that has what appears to be about 5 or 6 capacitors installed in series onto it. Before I even turned on these lights, I did install this bypass wire which you place into the ballast. Basically, the HID light will turn on, then off immediately. I removed the wire and ran the stock wiring and 'voila' lights turned on, no flickering and no warning lights on the dashboard. At least in my case, a 2004 W211 Estate Wagon, you don't need this bypass wire.
I do hope these lights and ballasts last the life of my car.
For now, I give HIDExtra a 9/10.
07-14-2009, 05:49 AM
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Not to rain on your parade....
Okay,
Anyone on the fence about getting HID's, here's my experience. I purchased the HIDExtra lights which are advertised on this forum for pretty much the lowest price you'll find for these type of lights. I went with the recommended H7, 8000K which are extremely bright and give a whitish/pale blue tint.
First HIDExtra ships their stuff USPS in a plain cardboard box, nothing fancy. You get all the standard stuff to install your lights which I won't go into here since there's already a great post on this anyway in this forum (it's what I used to guide me in my install).
So, here's the good and the bad. The good is, the install really is simple everything from installing wires into ballasts and running the power leads to the original sockets is pretty much a no-brainer. The real challenge is the lame metal bracket used to hold the H7 HID bulb. First there is a rubber gasket that covers the base of the bulb and makes it a bit thick to fit into the stock metal bracket up against the base of the HID bulb. In fact, on the second bulb, I ended up slightly cutting the rubber gasket (hope that won't leave any lingering issues) as I forced the bracket onto the HID bulb base. Once you get get these two matched up, it's off to placing it into the lense socket. Good luck here. it took me at least 20 minutes each side of cursing, and fiddling to finally get it to fit into the socket.
So..that's the bad. Believe it or not, that's the only bad in this installation. If anyone has a better way of installing these lame brackets to HID bulbs and getting the assembly into the lense socket, I'm all ears.
One final note, HIDExtra will offer you a 'bypass' wire with the kit for free. It's basically a wire that has what appears to be about 5 or 6 capacitors installed in series onto it. Before I even turned on these lights, I did install this bypass wire which you place into the ballast. Basically, the HID light will turn on, then off immediately. I removed the wire and ran the stock wiring and 'voila' lights turned on, no flickering and no warning lights on the dashboard. At least in my case, a 2004 W211 Estate Wagon, you don't need this bypass wire.
I do hope these lights and ballasts last the life of my car.
For now, I give HIDExtra a 9/10.
Anyone on the fence about getting HID's, here's my experience. I purchased the HIDExtra lights which are advertised on this forum for pretty much the lowest price you'll find for these type of lights. I went with the recommended H7, 8000K which are extremely bright and give a whitish/pale blue tint.
First HIDExtra ships their stuff USPS in a plain cardboard box, nothing fancy. You get all the standard stuff to install your lights which I won't go into here since there's already a great post on this anyway in this forum (it's what I used to guide me in my install).
So, here's the good and the bad. The good is, the install really is simple everything from installing wires into ballasts and running the power leads to the original sockets is pretty much a no-brainer. The real challenge is the lame metal bracket used to hold the H7 HID bulb. First there is a rubber gasket that covers the base of the bulb and makes it a bit thick to fit into the stock metal bracket up against the base of the HID bulb. In fact, on the second bulb, I ended up slightly cutting the rubber gasket (hope that won't leave any lingering issues) as I forced the bracket onto the HID bulb base. Once you get get these two matched up, it's off to placing it into the lense socket. Good luck here. it took me at least 20 minutes each side of cursing, and fiddling to finally get it to fit into the socket.
So..that's the bad. Believe it or not, that's the only bad in this installation. If anyone has a better way of installing these lame brackets to HID bulbs and getting the assembly into the lense socket, I'm all ears.
One final note, HIDExtra will offer you a 'bypass' wire with the kit for free. It's basically a wire that has what appears to be about 5 or 6 capacitors installed in series onto it. Before I even turned on these lights, I did install this bypass wire which you place into the ballast. Basically, the HID light will turn on, then off immediately. I removed the wire and ran the stock wiring and 'voila' lights turned on, no flickering and no warning lights on the dashboard. At least in my case, a 2004 W211 Estate Wagon, you don't need this bypass wire.
I do hope these lights and ballasts last the life of my car.
For now, I give HIDExtra a 9/10.
07-14-2009, 11:21 AM
#3
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Appreciate the counter point CEB. People will choose to do what they do. To me, the link gave a lot of scientific data that resulted in being told that HID lights give no better output than Halogen or they give a light spread that's unsafe. I disagree. From a simple qualitative POV, the light looks brighter and when aimed properly does not cause blindness to oncoming traffic. Again, my opinion, my choice. The author of this 'link' is really swimming against the mainstream and I appreciate that. Fight the good fight!
07-14-2009, 10:09 PM
#4
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Appreciate the counter point CEB. People will choose to do what they do. To me, the link gave a lot of scientific data that resulted in being told that HID lights give no better output than Halogen or they give a light spread that's unsafe. I disagree. From a simple qualitative POV, the light looks brighter and when aimed properly does not cause blindness to oncoming traffic. Again, my opinion, my choice. The author of this 'link' is really swimming against the mainstream and I appreciate that. Fight the good fight!
07-14-2009, 10:39 PM
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Appreciate the counter point CEB. People will choose to do what they do. To me, the link gave a lot of scientific data that resulted in being told that HID lights give no better output than Halogen or they give a light spread that's unsafe. I disagree. From a simple qualitative POV, the light looks brighter and when aimed properly does not cause blindness to oncoming traffic. Again, my opinion, my choice. The author of this 'link' is really swimming against the mainstream and I appreciate that. Fight the good fight!
Anyway, 8000k is too cold to match OEM. It ends up looking Ricer, imho. And in the end, that cold a color temp puts out less lumens than say, 4500k.
But, yes, it's your choice. Enjoy.
07-14-2009, 10:44 PM
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First off, to all the people who feel that 8k hid's are so dangerous on the road to other drivers, and because you obviously CARE about safety that much, then here's a list of what you also shouldn't do:
-Don't do 10 or more above the speed limit.
-Don't drive at night.
-Don't let your kids drive until they are 25.
-Don't drive a Mercedes because your car will attract too much attention from other drivers, becoming a distraction to them and causing hazardous driving conditions.
-Don't drive fast.
-Don't switch lanes too often.
-Don't run yellow lights.
And if you do, SOMEBODY here on mbworld should find a website for you to go to, like the one CEB gave to us.
Last edited by Dtv211; 07-14-2009 at 10:47 PM.
07-15-2009, 12:33 AM
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hilarious dtv211 - i couldn't agree more. there's arguments out there against aftermarket wheels for cryin out loud. if i listened to every 'stern' out there, i wouldn't even have a benz.....
why? cuz the money i spent on it was from vegas winnings. seriously.
why? cuz the money i spent on it was from vegas winnings. seriously.
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07-15-2009, 04:46 AM
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I don't think you guys quite get it. It has nothing to do with not using HIDs. I highly recommend HIDs. But the issue is the lens that the lamps are fitted into. If you don't have proper projector lenses that are made for HID (and can also use halogen), then the HID projection on the road is incorrect.
That's the whole point (and only point) of the article that CEB posted. In another article Stern claims HIDs are not quite road worthy. I disagree with that assessment.
I replaced my halogens on my Porsche with aftermarket HIDs. Although I went with 4500k since they are brighter (temp color and lumens are two different things) than 8000k+ bulbs, and because they look like OEM (and there's a big reason OEM lamps are not 8000k+) My Porsche came from the factory with projector lenses. But they were equipped with halogen bulbs. Therefore putting in HIDs created no issues whatsoever. They were meant for either halogen or Xenon.
If you have projector lenses in the vehicle, then there's no problem. Other than possibly ending up with cheap ballasts that won't last very long or begin to flicker in a short time. The majority of them are inexpensive Chinese made units.
As far as color temp is concerned, just understand that a higher temp does not correlate with more brightness. They only appear brighter because of the blueish tint.
4100k to 4500k is the ideal HID color temperature to produce the maximum amount of light (lumens), and that is the reason all OEM manufacturers equip their vehicles with these types of bulbs. 8000k lamps only produce 2900 lumens. 4500k lamps produce 3200 lumens. Those blue lights are not brighter, they are dimmer.
And yes, I personally feel blue lights look Ricer. Because no OEM lamps are blue. Higher k lamps are sold only for looks. And the Ricer crowd adopted blue lights because their cars were not equipped with factory HIDs. After all, when Xenon lamps first came out, they were on high end cars only. And Ricers (and trucks/SUV owners) are still installing 8000-10000k lamps in non-Xenon fittings. In other words, scattering blue light all over the road.
And, imho, blue lights look cheap. But you are entitled to do whatever please you. So, like I said earlier, enjoy
That's the whole point (and only point) of the article that CEB posted. In another article Stern claims HIDs are not quite road worthy. I disagree with that assessment.
I replaced my halogens on my Porsche with aftermarket HIDs. Although I went with 4500k since they are brighter (temp color and lumens are two different things) than 8000k+ bulbs, and because they look like OEM (and there's a big reason OEM lamps are not 8000k+) My Porsche came from the factory with projector lenses. But they were equipped with halogen bulbs. Therefore putting in HIDs created no issues whatsoever. They were meant for either halogen or Xenon.
If you have projector lenses in the vehicle, then there's no problem. Other than possibly ending up with cheap ballasts that won't last very long or begin to flicker in a short time. The majority of them are inexpensive Chinese made units.
As far as color temp is concerned, just understand that a higher temp does not correlate with more brightness. They only appear brighter because of the blueish tint.
4100k to 4500k is the ideal HID color temperature to produce the maximum amount of light (lumens), and that is the reason all OEM manufacturers equip their vehicles with these types of bulbs. 8000k lamps only produce 2900 lumens. 4500k lamps produce 3200 lumens. Those blue lights are not brighter, they are dimmer.
And yes, I personally feel blue lights look Ricer. Because no OEM lamps are blue. Higher k lamps are sold only for looks. And the Ricer crowd adopted blue lights because their cars were not equipped with factory HIDs. After all, when Xenon lamps first came out, they were on high end cars only. And Ricers (and trucks/SUV owners) are still installing 8000-10000k lamps in non-Xenon fittings. In other words, scattering blue light all over the road.
And, imho, blue lights look cheap. But you are entitled to do whatever please you. So, like I said earlier, enjoy
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bernard farquar (12-30-2018)
07-15-2009, 01:31 PM
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Ya, if the angle is correct there is no problem. That's why I notice when suvs such as range rovers, MLs, or GLs with HIDs come toward me, the projection is angled not to bother other drivers (now it's different if the driver left her high beams on 
). That's why even OEM xenons that had non-projector lenses from MB still came with auto leveling (the height of the light adjusts in conjunction with weight in the car), such as the R170 SLK. And that is why 911s, MBs, BMWs, Audis, with HIDs come with the auto level feature so the light doesn't shoot to high.
Also you have to remember with OEM BiXenons, that the HID on low beam, isn't "open" all the way. When the high beam is turned on, the lense is opened all the way to shoot the full power of the HID light and there is a halogen high beam bulb to help out as well.
A lot of these do come from china and they are mostly POS. I mean I've seen on ebay $30 for the kit. I mean, how long is the ballast gonna last. I had a sample HID kit once a couple of years ago from hong kong. The cost from the factory was $90. So think what that would sell retail, that's quality. My friend when he got his F150 back in the late 90s (this is a while ago) bought one of the first aftermarket HID kits that were out back then. He paid around $2000 with install. The units were made in Japan (yes in Japan) and the original bulbs up until a year ago (since he sold the car after that) still had not burned out and the ballasts never had a problem.
My favorite temp for HIDs are 4300k which is pretty much what OEM uses. I think the 3000K (yellow light) is really ugly and cheap looking. Been seeing it a lot lately. Honestly, 6000k and 8000k, I think is still ok, but wouldn't put on my cars. Anything over is just pointless. I live in the valley here, so I see a lot of these trucks and suvs with 12000K (the bright purple) xenons. They just shoot light into everyone's eyes and it doesn't even light the road. Even 10000K is too much.
). That's why even OEM xenons that had non-projector lenses from MB still came with auto leveling (the height of the light adjusts in conjunction with weight in the car), such as the R170 SLK. And that is why 911s, MBs, BMWs, Audis, with HIDs come with the auto level feature so the light doesn't shoot to high.Also you have to remember with OEM BiXenons, that the HID on low beam, isn't "open" all the way. When the high beam is turned on, the lense is opened all the way to shoot the full power of the HID light and there is a halogen high beam bulb to help out as well.
A lot of these do come from china and they are mostly POS. I mean I've seen on ebay $30 for the kit. I mean, how long is the ballast gonna last. I had a sample HID kit once a couple of years ago from hong kong. The cost from the factory was $90. So think what that would sell retail, that's quality. My friend when he got his F150 back in the late 90s (this is a while ago) bought one of the first aftermarket HID kits that were out back then. He paid around $2000 with install. The units were made in Japan (yes in Japan) and the original bulbs up until a year ago (since he sold the car after that) still had not burned out and the ballasts never had a problem.
My favorite temp for HIDs are 4300k which is pretty much what OEM uses. I think the 3000K (yellow light) is really ugly and cheap looking. Been seeing it a lot lately. Honestly, 6000k and 8000k, I think is still ok, but wouldn't put on my cars. Anything over is just pointless. I live in the valley here, so I see a lot of these trucks and suvs with 12000K (the bright purple) xenons. They just shoot light into everyone's eyes and it doesn't even light the road. Even 10000K is too much.
07-15-2009, 08:10 PM
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Generally speaking....
...the author of that article is anti-HID - a position that I disagree with vehemently, but he is dead on correct about HID kits and the color temp issues.
In most other countries aside from the US (FMVSS 108 is silent on auto leveling) you must have auto leveling for HIDs and in most European countries you need a dash operated manual levelers.
The bottom line is that it is impossible to install a HID kit in the halogen housings and have it work even close to properly. You need the proper HID housings...
In most other countries aside from the US (FMVSS 108 is silent on auto leveling) you must have auto leveling for HIDs and in most European countries you need a dash operated manual levelers.
The bottom line is that it is impossible to install a HID kit in the halogen housings and have it work even close to properly. You need the proper HID housings...
07-16-2009, 06:27 PM
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Forgive my ignorance, but isn't this a W211 forum? Not trying to be a smarta$$, but aren't all w211's regardless of whether they came with HID originally or not equipped with projector housings. I just checked this sub forum for pictures and one after another came up with projectors in the lense.
There's some folks here saying we shouldn't do this if we don't have projector housings, but w211 owners do have them. Not only that, but I just did a ton of driving last night and the cutoff is really perfect even without adjusting the headlight. Noone was getting blinded by these lights.
I mention this only because I really wasn't trying to get a whole thing started about whether or not to use HIDs, but believe me, if my car didn't have a projector housing I wouldn't do it. Yup, it would look ghetto to me.
As for my choice to use 8000K, pretty subjective here. I like it though.
Anyway, please correct me if I'm wrong about projector housings being standard equipment on W211s. I posted specifically in this group, so there wouldn't be this kind of miscommunication.
There's some folks here saying we shouldn't do this if we don't have projector housings, but w211 owners do have them. Not only that, but I just did a ton of driving last night and the cutoff is really perfect even without adjusting the headlight. Noone was getting blinded by these lights.
I mention this only because I really wasn't trying to get a whole thing started about whether or not to use HIDs, but believe me, if my car didn't have a projector housing I wouldn't do it. Yup, it would look ghetto to me.
As for my choice to use 8000K, pretty subjective here. I like it though.
Anyway, please correct me if I'm wrong about projector housings being standard equipment on W211s. I posted specifically in this group, so there wouldn't be this kind of miscommunication.
Last edited by aa240sx; 07-16-2009 at 06:28 PM. Reason: clarification
07-16-2009, 07:57 PM
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Nope. Nothing wrong. I only pointed out that you got the basic premise of the article that was originally posted wrong. And I said in my second post that using projectors is no issue.
And I stand by my belief that these days 8000k and more just looks Ricer. Like spinning wheels. In my mind it doesn't stand out in a good way, it just looks too obviously aftermarket and kinda cheap. Again, my opinion.
And that a lower k will give you a lot more brightness than a higher k. Which is why mfgs use a lower k as their OEM.
Not sure what else is going on
Cheers.
And I stand by my belief that these days 8000k and more just looks Ricer. Like spinning wheels. In my mind it doesn't stand out in a good way, it just looks too obviously aftermarket and kinda cheap. Again, my opinion.
And that a lower k will give you a lot more brightness than a higher k. Which is why mfgs use a lower k as their OEM.
Not sure what else is going on
Cheers.
07-16-2009, 08:55 PM
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I don't think that you read the article...
Forgive my ignorance, but isn't this a W211 forum? Not trying to be a smarta$$, but aren't all w211's regardless of whether they came with HID originally or not equipped with projector housings. I just checked this sub forum for pictures and one after another came up with projectors in the lense.
There's some folks here saying we shouldn't do this if we don't have projector housings, but w211 owners do have them. Not only that, but I just did a ton of driving last night and the cutoff is really perfect even without adjusting the headlight. Noone was getting blinded by these lights.
I mention this only because I really wasn't trying to get a whole thing started about whether or not to use HIDs, but believe me, if my car didn't have a projector housing I wouldn't do it. Yup, it would look ghetto to me.
As for my choice to use 8000K, pretty subjective here. I like it though.
Anyway, please correct me if I'm wrong about projector housings being standard equipment on W211s. I posted specifically in this group, so there wouldn't be this kind of miscommunication.
There's some folks here saying we shouldn't do this if we don't have projector housings, but w211 owners do have them. Not only that, but I just did a ton of driving last night and the cutoff is really perfect even without adjusting the headlight. Noone was getting blinded by these lights.
I mention this only because I really wasn't trying to get a whole thing started about whether or not to use HIDs, but believe me, if my car didn't have a projector housing I wouldn't do it. Yup, it would look ghetto to me.
As for my choice to use 8000K, pretty subjective here. I like it though.
Anyway, please correct me if I'm wrong about projector housings being standard equipment on W211s. I posted specifically in this group, so there wouldn't be this kind of miscommunication.
Quite simply, the bulb design requires a different projector design.
The article also describes why "cutoff" isn't cutoff....
07-16-2009, 09:25 PM
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how about everyone takes a step back, thinks a little, and grows the f**** up 
they are lights, plain and simple, whether or not they are made for our housings is irrelevant really, seeing as aftermarket is just that, aftermarket.
the kit apparently works perfectly according to 240, regardless of your "words of wisdom" about how they aren't suitable.
he chose 8k, big whoop, im sure you buy pants or shirts in colors i wouldn't wear, who am i to say you're a unfashionable?
come on now, he was simply trying to share his experience....
they are lights, plain and simple, whether or not they are made for our housings is irrelevant really, seeing as aftermarket is just that, aftermarket.
the kit apparently works perfectly according to 240, regardless of your "words of wisdom" about how they aren't suitable.
he chose 8k, big whoop, im sure you buy pants or shirts in colors i wouldn't wear, who am i to say you're a unfashionable?
come on now, he was simply trying to share his experience....
07-16-2009, 11:22 PM
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how about everyone takes a step back, thinks a little, and grows the f**** up
they are lights, plain and simple, whether or not they are made for our housings is irrelevant really, seeing as aftermarket is just that, aftermarket.
the kit apparently works perfectly according to 240, regardless of your "words of wisdom" about how they aren't suitable.
he chose 8k, big whoop, im sure you buy pants or shirts in colors i wouldn't wear, who am i to say you're a unfashionable?
come on now, he was simply trying to share his experience....
they are lights, plain and simple, whether or not they are made for our housings is irrelevant really, seeing as aftermarket is just that, aftermarket.
the kit apparently works perfectly according to 240, regardless of your "words of wisdom" about how they aren't suitable.
he chose 8k, big whoop, im sure you buy pants or shirts in colors i wouldn't wear, who am i to say you're a unfashionable?
come on now, he was simply trying to share his experience....
btw, welcome to MBWorld (I see you have only 5 posts) Any pics of your car posted yet?
Cheers.
07-19-2009, 04:54 PM
#18
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I agree with CEB's link. HID retrofit always looks weird, you can recognize such cars easily, very bright, without any reasonable direction light, blinding everybody. However such retrofit brings a good feel of having real HID and saving a lot of money to an owner . I think it is good feel, so why bother?
07-19-2009, 11:49 PM
#19
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I think if it is done correctly, regarding both alignment and temp (4300K is OEM), the HIDs shouldn't bother anyone.
07-20-2009, 08:04 AM
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Right....
It is physically impossible to put HID bulbs into non-HID housings (projector or not) and have them work correctly....
07-20-2009, 02:51 PM
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However, on my E63 with active HIDs I notice that there is a mask that moves to give me either high beam or low beam. The lamp stays the same (it's one lamp) and it's the housing unit itself that projects the light properly (with load or when turning, etc..)
07-20-2009, 07:58 PM
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1953 300 Adenauer, 1971 300 SEL 6.3, 1975 600, 1978 450 6.9
Youe E uses bi-xenons.....
That's interesting because my Porsche was optioned at the time (it's a 993) either with halogens or what they called Litronics (HIDs) I was going to buy the OEM Porsche Litronic kit for $3000. But as it turns out, the housing is identical to the non-HID car. All you really get are the ballasts and lamps and wiring. Both have the same projector lamps. I installed a high quality HID aftermarket system and cutoff is perfect. The high beams are the existing halogen bulbs. Granted, it's older technology of that time.
However, on my E63 with active HIDs I notice that there is a mask that moves to give me either high beam or low beam. The lamp stays the same (it's one lamp) and it's the housing unit itself that projects the light properly (with load or when turning, etc..)
However, on my E63 with active HIDs I notice that there is a mask that moves to give me either high beam or low beam. The lamp stays the same (it's one lamp) and it's the housing unit itself that projects the light properly (with load or when turning, etc..)
As far as Litronics is concerned, the kit included a new headlight (housing) as described in this Porsche bulletin:
http://www.bga.com/~rentner/Porsche/...ronic11-02.pdf
Here is a picture from Pelican parts
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...-98)%2C%20Each
Let me reiterate - it is impossible to put HID bulbs in non-HID housings and expect them to work properly....
07-20-2009, 08:24 PM
#24
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Porsche 991S, Cayenne S, 1972 BMW 3.0CS E9 Coupe
. As far as Litronics is concerned, the kit included a new headlight (housing) as described in this Porsche bulletin:
http://www.bga.com/~rentner/Porsche/...ronic11-02.pdf
Here is a picture from Pelican parts
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...-98)%2C%20Each
Let me reiterate - it is impossible to put HID bulbs in non-HID housings and expect them to work properly....
http://www.bga.com/~rentner/Porsche/...ronic11-02.pdf
Here is a picture from Pelican parts
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...-98)%2C%20Each
Let me reiterate - it is impossible to put HID bulbs in non-HID housings and expect them to work properly....
The diagram shows the same headlamp assembly. Anyway, my mechanic (factory trained tech, etc, blah, blah) claims the housing is the same. But I rarely drive the car at night anyway, so it's kinda moot for me.
07-20-2009, 09:01 PM
#25
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1953 300 Adenauer, 1971 300 SEL 6.3, 1975 600, 1978 450 6.9
The truth of the matter is....
That was my point.
Thanks, although that's not the correct bulletin for my car. That's a 996 part number for the egg yolk lamps. My car is a 993. If you want to use Pelican, then look here for the correct parts: http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/..._pg1.htm#item0
The diagram shows the same headlamp assembly. Anyway, my mechanic (factory trained tech, etc, blah, blah) claims the housing is the same. But I rarely drive the car at night anyway, so it's kinda moot for me.
Thanks, although that's not the correct bulletin for my car. That's a 996 part number for the egg yolk lamps. My car is a 993. If you want to use Pelican, then look here for the correct parts: http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/..._pg1.htm#item0
The diagram shows the same headlamp assembly. Anyway, my mechanic (factory trained tech, etc, blah, blah) claims the housing is the same. But I rarely drive the car at night anyway, so it's kinda moot for me.
