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How to replace w211 air filter ?
#2
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 6,394
Likes: 300
From: Europe
223.168 & 213.012 & 906.633 & 214.005
#5
Air filter w211
When you remove the air filter box, you have to remove the screws from the opposite end i think there are 6 screws on each side and make sure when your putting it back the seal where it meets your air mass meter is flushed with the air mass dont slam it or push it on.
Good Luck
Good Luck
#7
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 470
Likes: 3
From: McLean, VA
2003 E500 Benz & 2015 BMW M235ix
Ten minutes is a little optimistic for the first time DIY even when following some detailed photos and directions someone posted on this forum last year..........Search around the forum and you may be able to find that posting with the detailed step by step procedures with photos. I'm mechanically inclined and do minor work on my Benz and Volvos and it took me about 30 minutes to go step by step to pull out the unit, unscrew the covers on both sides , clean out the two compartments, insert the two new air filters, then replace the screws while ensuring an airtight fit, and then replacing the entire unit back into the engine compartment. For the first time DIY, it's always a worry about pulling something the wrong way and maybebreaking it, so it's always better to go slow the first time around. It's also a little tricky to get the back portion of the air filter unit to "pop" back into the MAF......need to angle it just right. If you can't find the posting from last year, PM me your email address......I made a copy of them and I'll email them back to you.
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#8
Ten minutes is a little optimistic for the first time DIY even when following some detailed photos and directions someone posted on this forum last year..........Search around the forum and you may be able to find that posting with the detailed step by step procedures with photos. I'm mechanically inclined and do minor work on my Benz and Volvos and it took me about 30 minutes to go step by step to pull out the unit, unscrew the covers on both sides , clean out the two compartments, insert the two new air filters, then replace the screws while ensuring an airtight fit, and then replacing the entire unit back into the engine compartment. For the first time DIY, it's always a worry about pulling something the wrong way and maybebreaking it, so it's always better to go slow the first time around. It's also a little tricky to get the back portion of the air filter unit to "pop" back into the MAF......need to angle it just right. If you can't find the posting from last year, PM me your email address......I made a copy of them and I'll email them back to you.
This is the big write up of Benz-O-Rama.
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...rs-batman.html
#10
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 470
Likes: 3
From: McLean, VA
2003 E500 Benz & 2015 BMW M235ix
Also, here are the directions from another thread on the MB Club of America site:
Maintenance manual not much help for air cleaner replacement
Mfgwinn
MBCA Member
Mike -
I have the MB maintenance DVD. Generally it offers enough information for DIYers. The instructions for the combination filter are okay. But the instructions for the E320 and E500 air cleaner insert replacement are pathetic. The E350 air cleaner replacement instructions are not too bad.
My E500 has 52K miles on it and I changed the air cleaner today.
You do not mention whether you have an E500 or E320. The part number for the engine cover assembly on the E500 starts with "112" even though the E500 uses the "113" engine. So the instructions will be similar for the E320 (with 112 engine) and the E500 except for the front portion of the engine cover, which, is probably smaller on the E320.
Tools needed: #25 Torx bit, flashlight, leather gloves.
1. Start by removing the air ducts that extend from the air cleaner housing to the grille area. These are not held in place by any clamps or clips. Just collapse the accordian section of the duct a bit and work it free of the air cleaner.
2. Remove the front section of the engine cover. On the E500 there are five clips holding the front section of the cover in place. One clip is near the front of the cover slight off center favoring the driver side. Lift up on the front of the cover until you disengage the clip. The plastic cover has some sharp edges, so, it helps to wear gloves. The remaining four clips connect the front section of engine cover to the rear section of engine cover. The two out board clips can be disengaged by gently lifting up on the front cover near the seam between the front and rear covers. Once these clips are disengaged and the front edge of the cover is lifted up slightly you can pull the front cover towards the front of the car and disengage the remaining two clips.
3. The rear section of the engine cover is held in place by four large spring metal clips on the four corners of the engine cover assembly. These clips snap over large rubber grommet like anchor points. You will be able to see the two clips on the front edge of the rear cover once the front cover is removed. In addition to these four clips, the air cleaner attaches to the engine air intake at the center rear edge of the cover. This is approximately a 100mm diameter screened intake tube. It takes some force to lift the rear engine cover off the rubber "grommets". Lift the two at the front edge of the rear cover first. Then very carefully lift upward and slightly forward on the rear edge of the cover. The engine cover and air cleaner assembly is not as light as it looks.
4. Clean up any dirt on the exterior of the air cleaner assembly. Lay the assembly upside down on a padded surface in order to protect the top surface of the assembly. Work on one side of the air cleaner at a time.
5. Loosen the four course threaded screws that secures the lower part of the air cleaner to the engine cover. These screws are captive and cannot be completely removed. Loosen each of the screws a little at a time. I think there is a chance of damaging the housing if you loosen one screw all the way before going on to the next screw. Once all screws are loosened, carefully remove the lower section of the air filter.
5. Vacuum the dirt from the filter element prior to removing the filter cartridge. There was a "pile" of dirt and bugs at the rear most end of the filter element. Once removed I found the inner part of the air cleaner assembly to be completely dust free.
6. Install the new filter element.
7. Clean the inside of the lower cover and carefully re-install it over the filter element. Tighten the four screws a little at a time until the there is no gap between the top and bottom halves of the air filter assembly at the point where the screws are located. On my air cleaner I noticed that the front outer corner of the upper cover seem to be warped upward. Compare it to the side that you have not removed yet and you will probably find that side is warped up too. I think this is a design defect. I noticed the same defect on my SLK350 engine cover.
8. Repeat steps 5 thru 7 on the other side of the air cleaner assembly.
9. The MB maintenance manual instructs you to lubricate the sealing ring at the rear of the air cleaner with liquid lubricant. "Naphtolen H" is specified. I used a film of 303 Aerospace Protectant. The MB part number for Naphtolen H is "000 989 01 60". I may try to pick some of this up on my next trip to the dealer parts department.
10. Carefully position the air cleaner assembly over the air intake. This is the hardest part of the job. This is where you need the flashlight to check the alignment with the air intake. Engage the rear metal clips while pushing the air cleaner over the air intake tube. Snap the front clips in place.
11. Re-install the two air ducts.
12. Snap the front section of the engine cover in place.
It took me about two hours to change the air filter inserts. Most of the time was spent cleaning up the area around the top of the engine and the air cleaner assembly.
#12
NAPA has engine air filters at 40% off all month. I'll pick up the ones for my Bluetec for $29.40 this afternoon, regularly $48.99. They're made by Mann, which in my mind, is about as good as they get. I took the car to the dealer this morning and they wanted $119 to change them out. I am planning on about a $900+ bill today for an A service, tranny flush, brake fluid flush and fuel filter. Changing the air filters myself will keep it under $1K!
Last edited by dtrentr; 03-02-2010 at 04:10 PM.
#14
NAPA has engine air filters at 40% off all month. I'll pick up the ones for my Bluetec for $29.40 this afternoon, regularly $48.99. They're made by Mann, which in my mind, is about as good as they get. I took the car to the dealer this morning and they wanted $119 to change them out. I am planning on about a $900+ bill today for an A service, tranny flush, brake fluid flush and fuel filter. Changing the air filters myself will keep it under $1K!
#15
You can check on parts.com. You don't need to know the parts number there. I paid like 35 bucks when I did mine. But I bought it from my trusted friend at the dealership who is a parts manager there. I get some really good discounts which are even cheaper than parts.com's prices.
#16
You can check on parts.com. You don't need to know the parts number there. I paid like 35 bucks when I did mine. But I bought it from my trusted friend at the dealership who is a parts manager there. I get some really good discounts which are even cheaper than parts.com's prices.
#17
#20
I ordered my Mann air filters off of Amazon for less than $31 for 2 shipped. Model C 3698-2 for a 2004 E500.
Plug in your vehicle info and do a search on Amazon for Mann products that will fit your car.
Plug in your vehicle info and do a search on Amazon for Mann products that will fit your car.
#21
I did this over the weekend, and it did take over 90 min only because I had a bunch of gunk on the rear cover that I was cleaning off before I put it all back together. I was trying to disassemble the rear cover as there appeared to be caked on oil/sealant stuck between the cover and on some of the bolts. I have no idea how that happened (since I've only had the car for 2 mos). Popping off the cover and taking out the old filters and replacing with new ones is pretty straight forward, but it's the little details that takes time.
#22
Super Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 881
Likes: 51
From: Long Island, New York
2018 E400 4matic Wagon
Here's the Thread with some pictures on changing the air filters for the W211 vehicles: https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...rs-batman.html
Also, here are the directions from another thread on the MB Club of America site:
Maintenance manual not much help for air cleaner replacement
Mfgwinn
MBCA Member
Mike -
I have the MB maintenance DVD. Generally it offers enough information for DIYers. The instructions for the combination filter are okay. But the instructions for the E320 and E500 air cleaner insert replacement are pathetic. The E350 air cleaner replacement instructions are not too bad.
My E500 has 52K miles on it and I changed the air cleaner today.
You do not mention whether you have an E500 or E320. The part number for the engine cover assembly on the E500 starts with "112" even though the E500 uses the "113" engine. So the instructions will be similar for the E320 (with 112 engine) and the E500 except for the front portion of the engine cover, which, is probably smaller on the E320.
Tools needed: #25 Torx bit, flashlight, leather gloves.
1. Start by removing the air ducts that extend from the air cleaner housing to the grille area. These are not held in place by any clamps or clips. Just collapse the accordian section of the duct a bit and work it free of the air cleaner.
2. Remove the front section of the engine cover. On the E500 there are five clips holding the front section of the cover in place. One clip is near the front of the cover slight off center favoring the driver side. Lift up on the front of the cover until you disengage the clip. The plastic cover has some sharp edges, so, it helps to wear gloves. The remaining four clips connect the front section of engine cover to the rear section of engine cover. The two out board clips can be disengaged by gently lifting up on the front cover near the seam between the front and rear covers. Once these clips are disengaged and the front edge of the cover is lifted up slightly you can pull the front cover towards the front of the car and disengage the remaining two clips.
3. The rear section of the engine cover is held in place by four large spring metal clips on the four corners of the engine cover assembly. These clips snap over large rubber grommet like anchor points. You will be able to see the two clips on the front edge of the rear cover once the front cover is removed. In addition to these four clips, the air cleaner attaches to the engine air intake at the center rear edge of the cover. This is approximately a 100mm diameter screened intake tube. It takes some force to lift the rear engine cover off the rubber "grommets". Lift the two at the front edge of the rear cover first. Then very carefully lift upward and slightly forward on the rear edge of the cover. The engine cover and air cleaner assembly is not as light as it looks.
4. Clean up any dirt on the exterior of the air cleaner assembly. Lay the assembly upside down on a padded surface in order to protect the top surface of the assembly. Work on one side of the air cleaner at a time.
5. Loosen the four course threaded screws that secures the lower part of the air cleaner to the engine cover. These screws are captive and cannot be completely removed. Loosen each of the screws a little at a time. I think there is a chance of damaging the housing if you loosen one screw all the way before going on to the next screw. Once all screws are loosened, carefully remove the lower section of the air filter.
5. Vacuum the dirt from the filter element prior to removing the filter cartridge. There was a "pile" of dirt and bugs at the rear most end of the filter element. Once removed I found the inner part of the air cleaner assembly to be completely dust free.
6. Install the new filter element.
7. Clean the inside of the lower cover and carefully re-install it over the filter element. Tighten the four screws a little at a time until the there is no gap between the top and bottom halves of the air filter assembly at the point where the screws are located. On my air cleaner I noticed that the front outer corner of the upper cover seem to be warped upward. Compare it to the side that you have not removed yet and you will probably find that side is warped up too. I think this is a design defect. I noticed the same defect on my SLK350 engine cover.
8. Repeat steps 5 thru 7 on the other side of the air cleaner assembly.
9. The MB maintenance manual instructs you to lubricate the sealing ring at the rear of the air cleaner with liquid lubricant. "Naphtolen H" is specified. I used a film of 303 Aerospace Protectant. The MB part number for Naphtolen H is "000 989 01 60". I may try to pick some of this up on my next trip to the dealer parts department.
10. Carefully position the air cleaner assembly over the air intake. This is the hardest part of the job. This is where you need the flashlight to check the alignment with the air intake. Engage the rear metal clips while pushing the air cleaner over the air intake tube. Snap the front clips in place.
11. Re-install the two air ducts.
12. Snap the front section of the engine cover in place.
It took me about two hours to change the air filter inserts. Most of the time was spent cleaning up the area around the top of the engine and the air cleaner assembly.
Also, here are the directions from another thread on the MB Club of America site:
Maintenance manual not much help for air cleaner replacement
Mfgwinn
MBCA Member
Mike -
I have the MB maintenance DVD. Generally it offers enough information for DIYers. The instructions for the combination filter are okay. But the instructions for the E320 and E500 air cleaner insert replacement are pathetic. The E350 air cleaner replacement instructions are not too bad.
My E500 has 52K miles on it and I changed the air cleaner today.
You do not mention whether you have an E500 or E320. The part number for the engine cover assembly on the E500 starts with "112" even though the E500 uses the "113" engine. So the instructions will be similar for the E320 (with 112 engine) and the E500 except for the front portion of the engine cover, which, is probably smaller on the E320.
Tools needed: #25 Torx bit, flashlight, leather gloves.
1. Start by removing the air ducts that extend from the air cleaner housing to the grille area. These are not held in place by any clamps or clips. Just collapse the accordian section of the duct a bit and work it free of the air cleaner.
2. Remove the front section of the engine cover. On the E500 there are five clips holding the front section of the cover in place. One clip is near the front of the cover slight off center favoring the driver side. Lift up on the front of the cover until you disengage the clip. The plastic cover has some sharp edges, so, it helps to wear gloves. The remaining four clips connect the front section of engine cover to the rear section of engine cover. The two out board clips can be disengaged by gently lifting up on the front cover near the seam between the front and rear covers. Once these clips are disengaged and the front edge of the cover is lifted up slightly you can pull the front cover towards the front of the car and disengage the remaining two clips.
3. The rear section of the engine cover is held in place by four large spring metal clips on the four corners of the engine cover assembly. These clips snap over large rubber grommet like anchor points. You will be able to see the two clips on the front edge of the rear cover once the front cover is removed. In addition to these four clips, the air cleaner attaches to the engine air intake at the center rear edge of the cover. This is approximately a 100mm diameter screened intake tube. It takes some force to lift the rear engine cover off the rubber "grommets". Lift the two at the front edge of the rear cover first. Then very carefully lift upward and slightly forward on the rear edge of the cover. The engine cover and air cleaner assembly is not as light as it looks.
4. Clean up any dirt on the exterior of the air cleaner assembly. Lay the assembly upside down on a padded surface in order to protect the top surface of the assembly. Work on one side of the air cleaner at a time.
5. Loosen the four course threaded screws that secures the lower part of the air cleaner to the engine cover. These screws are captive and cannot be completely removed. Loosen each of the screws a little at a time. I think there is a chance of damaging the housing if you loosen one screw all the way before going on to the next screw. Once all screws are loosened, carefully remove the lower section of the air filter.
5. Vacuum the dirt from the filter element prior to removing the filter cartridge. There was a "pile" of dirt and bugs at the rear most end of the filter element. Once removed I found the inner part of the air cleaner assembly to be completely dust free.
6. Install the new filter element.
7. Clean the inside of the lower cover and carefully re-install it over the filter element. Tighten the four screws a little at a time until the there is no gap between the top and bottom halves of the air filter assembly at the point where the screws are located. On my air cleaner I noticed that the front outer corner of the upper cover seem to be warped upward. Compare it to the side that you have not removed yet and you will probably find that side is warped up too. I think this is a design defect. I noticed the same defect on my SLK350 engine cover.
8. Repeat steps 5 thru 7 on the other side of the air cleaner assembly.
9. The MB maintenance manual instructs you to lubricate the sealing ring at the rear of the air cleaner with liquid lubricant. "Naphtolen H" is specified. I used a film of 303 Aerospace Protectant. The MB part number for Naphtolen H is "000 989 01 60". I may try to pick some of this up on my next trip to the dealer parts department.
10. Carefully position the air cleaner assembly over the air intake. This is the hardest part of the job. This is where you need the flashlight to check the alignment with the air intake. Engage the rear metal clips while pushing the air cleaner over the air intake tube. Snap the front clips in place.
11. Re-install the two air ducts.
12. Snap the front section of the engine cover in place.
It took me about two hours to change the air filter inserts. Most of the time was spent cleaning up the area around the top of the engine and the air cleaner assembly.
The was my first time doing this, and it too about a half hour. I spent a little time cleaning the air cleaner housing, but with only 26k miles, it wasn't very dirty in there.
Thanks to all for posting useful tips!
#23
Seems like the cover should just fold up now on hinges but it aint moving...
#24
What are you trying to say, do or to get out of this? Here are some options to choose from
- complaining
- an actual question of how to get it done
- want someone (me) to look into the crystal ball to give you information about something w/o knowing what you want
Pick one, but wisely
Sorry I have to be sarcastic one these type of posts
- complaining
- an actual question of how to get it done
- want someone (me) to look into the crystal ball to give you information about something w/o knowing what you want
Pick one, but wisely
Sorry I have to be sarcastic one these type of posts