killatee18

Hi All, I need to replace my rear brake pads soon. I was wondering if the front and rear brakes have different rotor specs?? Are the front rotors ventilated while the rears are solid?? I see holes on the front but not the rear. I always thought they were the same all around till I took a closer look. Also, my car has 37k miles and I never replaced pads or rotors. I will soon be replacing rear pads, should I also replace the rear rotors??? And if so, should I get the solid ones or ventilated. Any input would help. Thanks guys!!

PS: I have a 2007 E350 without 4matic and with sports package. thanks

220S

If the rear rotors are still in spec (measure them and look at the top groove) then just do the pads. You can turn the rotors but that's a choice you'll have to make. It depends on thickness.

No reason for rear drilled rotors on your car. Most cars don't even have drilled or slotted front rotors.

health services

It is not as easy as saying you want ventilated rotors and bolting them on. They are a different thickness on the other E models. Because of that it is not as simple as finding a E model with ventilated rotors and bolting them on.

Although there will be people who will argue benefits, cross drilled and slotted rotors are only for vanity and serve no purpose.

Mercedes will recommend new rotors. This covers their butts hopefully making sure there is no bedding issues with the new pads. I also put new rotors because I want a fresh clean flat surface for the new brake pads to grab and bed in properly.

I've put on pads on cars even with the old non flat surfaces and only had minor bedding issues, you most likely will not have a problem but check to make sure your rotors are not too thin.

Be sure to buy new sensors as they do not come with the pads.

220S

They do serve a purpose:

"Brake pads will out gas and under use may create boundary layer of gas between the pad and the disc that is detrimental to braking performance. Cross-drilling provides a place for the gas to escape. Although modern brake pads seldom suffer from out gassing problems, water residue may build up after a vehicle passes through water, and this can also impede braking performance. For this reason, and for heat dissipation purposes, cross drilling is still used on some braking components, but is not favored for racing or other hard use as the holes are a source of stress cracks under severe conditions.

Discs may also be slotted, where shallow channels are machined into the disc to aid in removing dust and gas. Slotting is the preferred method in most racing environments to remove gas, water, and de-glaze brake pads.

Some discs are both drilled and slotted. Slotted discs are generally not used on standard vehicles because they quickly wear down brake pads; however, this removal of material is beneficial to race vehicles since it keeps the pads soft and avoids vitrification of their surfaces.

On the road, drilled or slotted discs still have a positive effect in wet conditions because the holes or slots prevent a film of water building up between the disc and the pads."

That said, the lack of fade on my AMG brakes (the fronts are 360mm, 6 pot, slotted, drilled, and vented) is very noticeable under hard driving (e.g., aggressive on canyon roads, etc..)

health services

Sorry, for everyday purposes on the street it has more Poser value and vanity than anything else.

health services

Oh I forgot to mention if you or anyone else who drives the car is a little picky about a little noise, the slotted and cross drilled rotors will make a little noise that you will hear if you try to listen to it. Real easy to hear on a quiet street along a wall, with the window open, 20 MPH to a stop. Most people will never notice this noise, but for some, it can be totally irritating to them.

SZMB

The front rotors are ventilated. If the rear rotors are single solid, you need to stay with single and can't go with ventilated disc unless you want to change the calipers too. The rear discs in my 2004 E500 are single solids. To check yours, just remove the rear wheel and look, or just use a flash light and check without removing the wheel.

220S

The exhaust/motor on my E63 is way too loud to notice anything as subtle as that

But I will say that the binders on this AMG are some of the best I've had in a while. My previous BMW 550i couldn't match them, nor can my current 993 (and that car has the Turbo version big reds on it.)

tonymoutry1

What tool do you use to remove the front caliber for rotor replacement?

beejAMG

I just replaced my rotors and pads. I had ventilated front and solid rear as stock. I replaced them with ventilated cross drilled and slotted front and solid cross drilled and slotted rear with ceramic pads all around and 3 sensors. NO NOISE whatsoever, and most important of all...NO BRAKE DUST! And the cross drilled and slotted may or may not have benefits and may be just for show...but its a show that I like to watch.

MasterMoparSB

A bit off topic, but why is it that non-4matic sport models have drilled rotors and 4matic sport models have solid? I always wondered

Plutoe

Regrettably the correct and safe way to remove any or all of the calipers requires the use of DAS Xentry to deactivate the system and then reactivate the system when work is complete.

There is no cheap alternative!!!

N_Jay

'07 has conventional brakes.

beejAMG

^

AMGAffalterbach

My 2007 E550 4-Matic Sport came with cross-drilled front and solid rear from factory, but since I do a lot of canyon runs and "performance" driving I opted for going with R1 Concepts front and rear cross-drilled/ventilated rotors and they are really really nice. Many people debate the effectiveness of cross drilling and the overall integrity of the rotor blah blah blah don't really care, I believe that they serve a purpose and haven't noticed any increased fade or cracking even after having these things red hot more than once on mountain rallys. Not to mention they look good too now that I have a more open wheel.