I know that the original main battery in my 2006 E320 CDI is an AGM type and, at 5 years old, I'm starting to think of a replacement.

Advance Auto Sells a non OEM Type 49 battery that is said (by them) to fit for about $90 after coupon (3 year replacement warranty plus 84 months pro-rated). It's not an AGM.

Looking for an AGM type, about all I find is a Deka model 9AGM49 that seems to sell for about $171 (plus, I thinking, shipping.

So, the big guestion is...is it worth spending 2X for an AGM battery vs. what a very good conventional one costs?


Or does anyone know of a more cost-effective AGM Type 49 alternative...and I don't mean those lots of 6 each of "factory second" Deka 9AGM49's that some guy is elling at $69 per battery.


- nopcbs

 

I am on my second 84 month Bosch from Pep Boys. It was $100 and is conventional with vent tube. The first lasted about 12 months and they replaced it no charge. Probably just a poor battery and maybe the second will last. I know lots of people here think the Deka is the closest thing to OEM without going to Mercedes. The MB service truck supposedly comes to you for about $150 installed . If so, I would definitely go that route.

 

The specs on the Deka AGM battery are quite impressive (900 CCA, 185 minute reserve capatity, 6yr warranty, spillproof and completely sealed). How about the MB OEM?

 

Could someone confirm the $150 rate for the main battery? I thought the original MB battery was something like $250 at the dealer.

 

I recommend the Interstate batteries, but they're not cheap. ~$150.
The orginal batteries in the MB are made in Germany/Europe. However, as far as I know, the replacements you buy from the dealers are not made in Germany/Europe, but they're made by contractor(s) in the U.S. The replacements only have 1-yr or 2-yr warranty and they're expensive -- not worth the money in my book. Call your dealer's parts dept to find out.

 

$150 installed by a MB service vehicle visit would be a screaming bargain. Since MB is not in the business of providing screaming bargains, I doubt that number. I've seen $350 mentioned by people who asked their local dealer. That sounds more like it. It may vary with the level of greed at your local dealer, though.

Think I'll call the local guys, just for grins.

- nopcbs

 

I do not make this stuff up. This was for a C class



new battery via roadside assistance

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Just wanted to let everyone know that a new genuine Mercedes battery via roadside assistance is still ~$150. I was near Whittier CA and decided to give it a shot since i was still on the original battery (7+ years now). Friday AM, took less than an hour total from the time I called to the time he was pulling away, and a Genuine MB battery. He also went thru the procedure to re-sync everything, reset the clock, etc. He simply disconnectd the old battery and then installed the new one (no constant power source). Car was unlocked and the key was out of the ignition. Totally worth it IMHO.

 

So...you just called the roadside assistance number and asked that they come out to your house and put in a new battery? Did they come out and test the old battery, first, or just take your word for it (being dead)?

$150...this is for an AGM battery, installed?

Excellent! Did you ask about the cost before they came out...when you called them?

This just seems too good to be true as a Deka AGM is over $170 w/o any service call.

Wow!

You done good!

- nopcbs

 

I have misled you and I apologize. I have never had roadside assistance replace a battery. If you search this board, you will find numerous people who have and several have been emphatic about the price. The post I attached was several months old, no one I know. Still
I believe that M-B offers this service at an unusually attractive price. IS it OEM? I do not know. Is the warranty brief? no idea. Is it AGM? No idea. Does that include diesels? do not know. One thing I do believe, if the service tech comes out and replaces your battery and screws it up like you MIGHT, they will have to make it good. That is worth something.
For some reason, it appears the brother -in-law deal is only offered from the roadside assistance group. The dealer charges the usual "doctor's price" if you have it done in their facility.

 

. One thing I do believe, if the service tech comes out and replaces your battery and screws it up like you MIGHT, they will have to make it good. That is worth something.
[/quote]

Out of curiosity, how hard is it to replace the main battery?

 

It is not difficult, pivot the trunk mat and attach it to the package shelf with the clamp. Remove the foam battery cover. I take the positive side off first but many go for the ground. Careful not to short the positive to ground. It MAY still have voltage due to the smaller battery (if you have one). I believe mine has some kind of strap that holds the battery in place. Once re- connected, the service manual says to pre- load the battery with seat heaters, rear de fog, lights etc for 30 seconds? before starting the car. This is suppose to prevent damage to the electrical system. You will need to re-sync the windows (Hold in up switch position for a full second or two), sunroof (switch held in close position for a second or two) and I believe the esp system (turn steering wheel lockto lock.)
My first gen E had a vented battery OEM. If yours does and you replace in kind, take the small vent tube extension out of the original battery, it is a $.02 part but essential and the aftermarket one I bought had the hole for it to vent but no extension.
I do not like dealing with automobile folks because the price never seems to wind up as quoted. I do all of the service I can (one visit for a broken siren that required double the amount of work needed) . I would be a hypocrit if I encouraged a dealer install but $150 is pretty close to cost. Your call

 

Just replaced my aux battery last week at the dealer $300 installed (Aux battery cost is $180). When the SA said $300 I asked him "that's the main battery right?" he laughed and said "Oh no!, the main is about $450...."

 

Search for a discussion on the aux battery. I replaced mine with an AGM exact match from AutoZone for $71 a couple of years ago.

 

Thanks for that! Seems easy enough-I may give it a try. I have a local service guy and he tried to find the batteries. The best he could offer was take it to the dealer.

 

At one time, I had reason to believe the battery shipped with the car was mfg by Johnson Controls which I believe is an American company. The Aux battery says FIMM. I believe that Yuasu makes the best small motorcycle type batteries period. They are pricey but I have had one go 8 years in a bike, easily double anything else and triple a Crapmart battery As. for the Deka, in my area (Atlanta) they are stocked by Interstate. From all of the battery woes posted here, it is too bad that Optima does not make a suitable size. If I were doing it over, I would go for the Deka AGM which I had quoted at about $175. The Bosch I had may have been a lemon and the replacement MAY be ok but having to jump the car in a parking garage, limp back to the Pep Boys and waiting for a replacement was all very annoying.
I really think the European battery mfg make better stuff. My 1970 Beetle went to heaven in 1979 with the original battery.

 

Thanks Clinton-I did find the Deka at Remybattery.com for $171.01. I talked to the nice folks at the dealership, and they suggested that I bring it in for evaluation. They said the reason I am getting the low battery message could be a software re-set issue or a battery controller issue. I have made an appointment with them for next week, which I will probably regret. I will have the evaluation, and if it is the controller, my extended warranty should cover it. If it is battery(ies), since, even though I get the message, the car starts ok, I will buy the Deka main battery, and try to find the motorcycle auxiliary battery, and I will install them myself. This is probably a dumb question, but, in the process of changing the battery, if power from another battery is applied in parallel, would that avoid the need to re-set? Does the re-set procedure have to be done following installation of the auxiliary also, assuming I don't install them at the same time? Incidentally, my local service guy, who is a big seller of Interstate batteries, said he called Interstate, and they told him they supplied the AGM battery to US Mercedes dealers, and that for proprietary reasons, it wasn't available to civilians. That didn't sound like the American way.

 

Just curious, was the cashier holding a Glock or a S&W .357 on you when you went to pay? If it was me paying $300 for a $70 battery (I paid $70 for an AGM aux battery this fall) I would hope that the dealer at least had the decency to hold a gun on me while I was paying.

- nopcbs

 

I changed the auxiliary battery myself a few weeks ago, $130 CDN for the correct size and type battery from my local battery shop. Maybe 10 minutes to make the change. I could probably cut that in half if I had to do it again.

 

LOL Really!.

The real frustrating part was, that I was reacting to a red warning message (with the battery image). I initially assumed a battery and if I could determine which battery, I was ready to DIY. Then I looked up the message in the owners manual, and it stated that it was a non charging issue and probably the alternater. SO!!.... as I'm under warrenty, I went in to the dealer for my free alternater and instead paid (through the nose) for an aux battery

 

I try to differentiate between what I know and what I have heard. People on this board have described the system briefly as this:
1. The small battery in the engine bay is a backup that supplies energy ONLY to the hydraulic brake servo motor. It will not crank the car, run lights etc. This is to insure that braking power is maintained during a failure of the main battery.
2. The small battery is charged on a timed schedule for a brief period to keep it hot. This is controlled by the BCM (battery control module).
3. There is an electrical circuit that limits current in one direction, ie the main battery will energize the positive lead in the small battery compartment, even when disconnected from the small battery. When replacing the small battery, either disconnect the main OR carefully isolate the small battery + lead so IT DOES NOT touch any part of the car.
4. AS I understand it, the small battery does not energize the main electrical system so the reverse (charging the main battery + lead from the small battery) is not a problem.

I must admit that W211 has the most complicated and delicate electrical system that I have run into. I speculate that more than half of the comments and questions on this forum are related to electrical system (specifically charging/ battery) problems.

Even though though the small battery is out of the main system loop, a failure will post the same "electrical consumers" message so one cannot be sure which, if either battery is failing.

I would not hesitate to encourage anyone with moderate skills and tools to attempt this. Just be aware that grounding the charging system or other mis steps can consume several times the savings and satisfaction one gains form DIY

 

The OE main battery (USA) for diesels is part number 005 541 10 01 and MSRP is $253.

The OE auxiliary battery for 2003-2006 models is 211 541 00 01 and MSRP is $187.

https://www.getmercedesparts.com/oem...des-parts.html

Normally, Roadside Assistance installation is free, but note that prerequisites for this have recently changed. That is, it's now free only to those that have been dealer-maintaining their car.

http://www.mercedesroadside.com/

Oh, I'd hesitate.

Doing just about ANYTHING without reference to Mercedes procedures, i.e. the Service DVD is pretty foolish.
http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/o...tedDocId=11498

 

The OE auxiliary battery for 2003-2006 models is 211 541 00 01 and MSRP is $187.
[/quote]

That part number is not for the auxiliary battery, it is for the rear battery.

 

There will always be a division here about dealer vs DIY. This board has de- mystified a large number of service procedures that enthusiasts want to tackle. As these vehicles age, the DIY people will increase until they dominate the conversation. Not many people who own 20 year old vehicles rush off to the dealer for service. Simple matter of economics.
If you are a professional that commands several hundred dollars an hour for your time and you are not "handy" you will depend on the dealer for assistance and hope that you can make it faster than they can take it. You will likely get rid of the car in a couple of years. I have fair mechanical skills but poor computer/ programming skills (typical of older population). I would not dream of replacing an audio unit in one of these cars but many here have done it successfully with a huge grin on their face. A dealer would not touch an operation like that and if they did, it would be a poor investment. I detest dealer service waiting rooms. I hate surprises. I like knowing that the repair / service was:
1. Actually done
2. Performed with skill and care
3. With parts that are OEM equivalents
4. For an up front price
That makes me a candidtae for simple to medium service work.
Brakes, lights,oil, fluids/ filters and the like
Drivetrain, ECM/Upholstery/body work/ paint- not in my wheel house.
Sometimes you will wish that you had not undertaken a particular project. That is why I listen to and respect those here who are bold enough to try. If they made a mess of it, they will usually admit it and you can use that information to determine if this exceeds your skills. People who are too timid to try can continue with the dealer and are happy to do it. I am not one of those. The internet is taking a lot of business away from folks that preach fear. Knowledge is power.

 

I must say I am incredibly puzzled by some of the things the nice folks at Sindelfingen and Stuttgart have done with the Mercedes Benz. I have owned one or another Me-Be, with only a lapse or two, since 1967. A few years ago i thought I wouldn't have another one, and then, because of a happy circumstance, found myself the owner of a 2006 E350 with only 14,000 miles on it. This makes me also the owner of an SBC brake system and a pair of hugely expensive batteries, among other things. Over the years I have often replaced a battery on my Mercedes. Several of my cars were diesels, and diesels love new batteries. I hate to think that I now own a car that is so complex that I can't replace a battery myself. I am bummed to find that I have to take everything out of the trunk to have access to a battery that has an MSRP of $187 and a street price of $140.25, and that, presumably, I will have to pay the dealer $400 to replace. I guess I am not cut out to be a Mercedes owner any more. I wish I had my 220D back, except it rusted away to nothing.

 

I fit in with most of the above remarks. I bought a five year old car with 32000km on it (about 20000miles) with my engine of choice in it. So far I like it a lot, put over 8000 km on it the first two weeks. I went on a road trip I had been planning for a while, finding the car at the opportune moment was a bonus.
My nearest dealer is 200 km away from my home, if I thought I would not be able to do something as basic as change the battery in this car I would probably sell it and buy a Dodge. I have owned a couple of Dodges in the past and have managed to change their batteries without mishap. Before I changed the aux battery I did a search on this forum, found a relative thread and learned a few things about the battery and the changing of same. I uncovered the battery, I believed the aux battery was the cause of the red warning screen since the car still cranked up well, and checked it with a digital multi meter. That showed the voltage was low so I tried my fancy electronic charger on it, the charger went into alarm, buzzing and flashing its diodes so I measured the battery dimensions and went and found one that size and the correct type. I installed the new battery, the red warning screen has not been seen since. The battery store guy assures me they can supply a replacement for the main battery when the time comes. Not very much more expensive than the aux battery. I plan to change it myself when required and will certainly post any difficulties, or lack therof, on this thread.