spinn

After extracting the oil, I only pulled out 6qts, which is about where the FSS+ level read before I had removed anything. I refilled with 8.5 qts, and the dipstick tool read about 170mm, which according to the seller's "cheat sheet" which tells me what to expect the level to be for an E500, it was too high. The FSS+ reading however was about 8.1 qts. I'm guessing that the levels in the "cheat sheet" may have been incorrect, as it appeared to be more in line with what the E55 levels should've been.

Would I have gotten a message indicating too much oil in the pan if it was indeed more than 8.5 qts in the pan?

Zaphodsplanet

Call my silly, but since the car as already been warm and had time for the oil to drain into the pan completely, you're argument seems slightly flawed when you say you won't get as much oil out of the engine.....LOL. It's already drained into the pan. Of course your point about any solids sinking to the bottom is a good one. Just being ridiculously picky here with ya....LOL.

mtrevelino

I just did my second oil change with the Mityvac and it was much better the second time. The oil was hot this time. It probably took less than 15 minutes to drain. I started draining, went inside to get a bite to eat, went back into the garage, and it was sucking air. The first time using it, the oil was warm and it took at least a half hour.
I purchased the dipstick tool and took readings both before and after changing the oil. It was at 132mm.
Mike T.

skpatel

Also, using the drain plug you unscrew and screw it back. Screwing back needs proper torque. If not, there are possibilities of damaging the plug or block.

coco2221

Benz-O-Rama, are you able to place the extraction tube all the way to the pan (on your 2005 SL600)? I have the same car but it seems my tube doesn't make it all the way down but instead gets stopped before it makes it to the pan. I'm getting oil to come out but it seems like its sucking more air than oil. Thoughts?

CC

rickster433

I was about to purchase an extractor on Amazon, then thought to do one last minute calculation, called the lube shop around the corner, they have a great reputation and 4.4 stars on google reviews, was informed a full synthetic Mobile 1 oil change for my CLK500 convertible would be around $90 approx, since i would bring my own fleece filter purchased on eBay for $8.50, i estimate paying around $100, $110 out the door for a once a year oil change, if I did it myself, there is a one time cost of the extractor, plus 8-8.5 Qts of Mobile 1 would be around $60 for 10 Qts, cause you have to buy them in 5 Qts each, i would have 1.5 to 2 Qts left over each time, and the hassle of all the work involved in doing it myself and the fear of a spill in my pristine garage, bringing the old oil to a parts shop in my SUV, (another place to spill), I decided it was not worth the hassle, unless you do several oil changes a year, this was not worth it for me, but I enjoyed the comments, and wish you all the best with your extractors. I just cannot justify the need for a once a year change for my needs.

Unless someone has a better reason than to save maybe $30 bucks a year, I would be interested to know.

arto_wa

My reason is: I doubt quick lube shop would have (or use?) the proper Mercedes 229.51 Spec engine oil for the Bluetec Diesel engine.

I use this handy tool from Harbor Freight for E320 oil changes and brake fluid flush, as well as brake fluid flushing on pickup and SUV.

It has a large tank capacity and creates a strong vacuum.

mtrevelino

If you have a Bluetec and it has the DPF system, doesn't it require 229.52 oil? The 2298.51 oil is for non DPF vehicles. If the dealer is doing the oil change, they would only carry the latest MB spec oil, which is 229.52.
Mike T.

arto_wa

Mike,
Here is a page from M-B manual dated August 2007 showing approved engine oils.
My car is 2008 model and rolled off assembly line September 2007.

229.51 is DPF compatible oil.

I think 229.52 oil came later and is also approved for this engine.

mtrevelino

Thanks for that information. I was not aware of that.
Mike T.

rocky raccoon

Admittedly, I haven't read the complete thread so if I am repeating please forgive.

This applies only to those models that have a dipstick. Most home mechanics using a vacuum oil extractor on a Benz are doing it wrong. The existing dipstick tube extends to the lowest point in the engine sump. The external suction unit should be attached to the top of the of that tube without sticking another tube into it.. This uses the full volume of the dipstick tube to extract the oil and is much faster and more complete. This is the way the dealers do it and so do I for many years and many Benzos. If you don't believe it I propose you conduct the following experiment. Suction your oil using the method I described above, then crawl under and remove the drain plug to see what you get. You may want to consider carpeting your garage with white **** after doing it this way.

Attaching to the top of the dipstick tube may require a little fiddling if you don't want to buy a purpose-made adaptor. In my case I used a drilled plastic cork.

arto_wa

Interesting.
I've heard some recommend checking the engine oil level with engine running - this would explain that!

How to know which engine models have this feature?

Anyone know who sells these adapters?

rocky raccoon

Say What? One cannot check oil with engine running! Are you confusing that with checking transmission?
BTW, I also have a 2008 E320 Bluetec. It has a dipstick but I don't know if the gassers do. Don't know about a source for adaptors. My cork works fine. I use a MityVac canister, manually pumped.
To my knowledge all Benz are so configured. If you remove your lower oil pan in the future, look for the dipstick tube end.

arto_wa

And why not, if the dipstick tube extends all the way close to the bottom of the pan as you have just suggested above?

rocky raccoon

While engine is running, a significant amount of the oil is in circulation thus not in the sump so an accurate level cannot be determined. The stick measures the oil level in the sump (crankcase).

lkchris

Both 229.51 and 229.52 are suitable for the diesels ... but good luck finding the former. 229.52 has superseded 229.51, the purpose being to provide better fuel economy. 229.51 is usually 5W-40 and 229.52 is 5W-30.

arto_wa

If you would like, you can find 229.51 MB-Approval Pennzoil Euro L at Walmart no problem.


https://mbworld.org/forums/diesel-fo...il-euro-l.html

arto_wa

Well, I tried both of these methods on my 2008 Bluetec V6 yesterday and my experience was quite different:

• At first I vacuum extracted all used motor-oil that would come out from top of the dipstick with only a tight rubber adapter. IE no small tube was pushed inside dipstick tube down to the bottom of pan as suggested above.
• Next I pushed a plastic tube inside a dipstick tube all the way to the bottom of the oil pan and continued vacuum extracting only to find out that about 4 more liters of oil came out!

Not sure what the differences in dipstick tube design in different model years are?