Clunk Front Bumps
#1
Clunk Front Bumps
Hi, it seems a really discussed problem.
Clunks on bumps slow speed.
Most of people claim the ball joints etc..., and I accept that, but need to first understand something:
why if I am pressing slightly the brake pedal I do not hear any clunk? it really sounds something loose.
My first idea was worn brake pads, because it happened to me on another car, and actually they were near the limit, so I replaced them. Not solved. Exactly same noise.
Some mechanic, MB old school, told me that sometimes brake calipers start doing this, maybe due to worn pin guides????
Thanks for the help
Cheers
Nuno
CAR: S211 E220cdi station 2004
Clunks on bumps slow speed.
Most of people claim the ball joints etc..., and I accept that, but need to first understand something:
why if I am pressing slightly the brake pedal I do not hear any clunk? it really sounds something loose.
My first idea was worn brake pads, because it happened to me on another car, and actually they were near the limit, so I replaced them. Not solved. Exactly same noise.
Some mechanic, MB old school, told me that sometimes brake calipers start doing this, maybe due to worn pin guides????
Thanks for the help
Cheers
Nuno
CAR: S211 E220cdi station 2004
Last edited by 19657; 06-29-2011 at 05:47 PM. Reason: forgot car model
#2
Lower control Arm bushings are probably worn, you can confirm this by reaching your hand under the front of the car by the wheel and tug on the silver looking metal rod. If it moves around, bushings are shot. Ball joints being worn normally make creaking sounds.
The Control Arm itself can be had for pretty cheap online
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Merce...ht_3167wt_1165
Or you can just get the bushing for $25-30 but, might as well get a fresh ball joint too while your at it. Pretty easy to replace yourself as well. Bushings alone should be done at a shop.
The Control Arm itself can be had for pretty cheap online
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Merce...ht_3167wt_1165
Or you can just get the bushing for $25-30 but, might as well get a fresh ball joint too while your at it. Pretty easy to replace yourself as well. Bushings alone should be done at a shop.
Last edited by Dexion; 07-01-2011 at 10:31 PM.
#3
Senior Member
I just had similar situation, I was told it was my breakes, had that replaced the nosie was still there. Then finally the dealer figured it out that it was the front strut after they replaced it under warranty no issues.
Check that out
Check that out
#4
Thanks. I think that control arm is the problem now. it started to do also a clunk when I stop breaking and press gas pedal. a single clunk.
I see that getting the control arm itself might be reasonable.
About ball joint itself, is it difficult task to replace. Since I will work on this, getting a complete overhaul would be better...
Thanks
I see that getting the control arm itself might be reasonable.
About ball joint itself, is it difficult task to replace. Since I will work on this, getting a complete overhaul would be better...
Thanks
#5
If you do a search you will find a DIY on replacing the ball joint and lower control arm.
#7
Ok.
Got the parts, got the ball joint remove installer, but missed the ball joint separator tool.
So I ended up buying a worst quality tool I think ( a ball joint separator) from something like wallmart. I say this because, It broke at first attempt. I was putting some energy in there but I think it gave up too soon.
~Then I went shopping again and got one impact fork type.
What can I say.... not good things.
I wasn't able to separate any of the 4 balljoints. And I am doing it quite hard....
SO I took the balljoint tool remover installer, which is a BIG and STRING tool and using some kind of help with metals plates I was able to remove only one balljoint.. from lower control arm.
I see there is some rust on the balljoint close to the arm... so ideas on how to break them loose?
I spoke with someone that told me I should have the separator putting strength then hammer it on the sides to break loose...
I have used penetrating oil also...
I am somehow desperate...
Thanks
Got the parts, got the ball joint remove installer, but missed the ball joint separator tool.
So I ended up buying a worst quality tool I think ( a ball joint separator) from something like wallmart. I say this because, It broke at first attempt. I was putting some energy in there but I think it gave up too soon.
~Then I went shopping again and got one impact fork type.
What can I say.... not good things.
I wasn't able to separate any of the 4 balljoints. And I am doing it quite hard....
SO I took the balljoint tool remover installer, which is a BIG and STRING tool and using some kind of help with metals plates I was able to remove only one balljoint.. from lower control arm.
I see there is some rust on the balljoint close to the arm... so ideas on how to break them loose?
I spoke with someone that told me I should have the separator putting strength then hammer it on the sides to break loose...
I have used penetrating oil also...
I am somehow desperate...
Thanks
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#8
4 ball joints? You are only supposed to remove the one that is attached to the control arm. Leave the others alone, if its going to be difficult, take it to a shop where they have the tools needed. There's not much labor time involved to change that, I've been quoted $60 per joint by my local place.
#9
Finally solved.
My car came from Germany, where they use salt on roads. This kind of "soldered" the balljoint to the balljoint bed.
It took a lot of heat before they broke loose...
but now, my MB runs like a charm again...
Thx for advises...
My car came from Germany, where they use salt on roads. This kind of "soldered" the balljoint to the balljoint bed.
It took a lot of heat before they broke loose...
but now, my MB runs like a charm again...
Thx for advises...