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Anyone run a Fumoto Oil Drain Valve on their W211? I had one on my previous car and it made changing oil a breeze. It also eliminates any chance of stripping out the oil pan.
03 E320 -wife's car now; 07 Porsche Boxster S - my toy
I don't have one on my W211 but I also own a Subaru Forester and many people on that forum love the Fumoto -- but then again, Foresters don't have to be jacked up to change the oil.
If you worry about stripping oil pan then you should just pump out your oil like most of us do as well is Dealer. Whole problem with drain on our cars is that you have to take two plastic panels from bottom not mentioning that u have to lift a car. Just get one of those Vacum pumps and problem solved
I NEVER PUMP OUT THE OIL..FULL OIL CHANGE FOR ME TAKES A FEW MORE MINUTES TO TAKE OFF THE UNDER PAN 6 BOLTS AND ITS OFF AND YOU GET ALL THE OIL OUT THAT WAY. I HAVE USED THOSE VALVES/ DRAINS ON A FEW RIGS AND LOVED THEM.
Hey, I agree with you about the proper oil change being via drain plug, but MB made it so hard to do w/o a lift that you are almost forced to do it the other, inferior, way.
Also, please don't shout (all caps). Makes messages harder to read...even sensible ones like yours.
Originally Posted by hooligan
I NEVER PUMP OUT THE OIL..FULL OIL CHANGE FOR ME TAKES A FEW MORE MINUTES TO TAKE OFF THE UNDER PAN 6 BOLTS AND ITS OFF AND YOU GET ALL THE OIL OUT THAT WAY. I HAVE USED THOSE VALVES/ DRAINS ON A FEW RIGS AND LOVED THEM.
Sorry to wake up this old thread. It looks like there are at least five different styles/models of Fumoto Drain Valve that would fit with W211 (mine is a 2005 E320 v6). Those are:
F106N: Long nipple oil drain valve w M14-1.5
F106: Original oil drain valve w M14-1.5
F316L: Elbow Joint Oil Drain Valve w M14-1.5
F106S: Short Nipple Oil Drain Valve w M14-1.5
F106SX: Position Adjustable Oil Drain Valve w M14-1.5
If you have one on your W211, which one works best? I'm guessing that the F106SX (adjustable) probably would be the best, thoughts? Thanks!
I have fumoto valves on all of our cars if the drain pan permits. With the w211 you end up needing an extension because of the lip. Which then makes it ugly, and I don't want another "joint". A much better solution both in appearance and function is a a Stahlbus oil drain valve. It screws into the pan just like the fumoto but doesn't get hung up anywhere like the pan lip would with the fumoto.
*Note that you could use the F106SX (picture above was before they made that in their product line, hence the extension piece), but I'm not a super huge fan of the design with the oring that eventually could leak compared to their nonadjustable ones that use the gasket to seal up again the pan. (Another reason I went with the Stahlbus version, was that no adapters were needed and it's a very clean look.)
I've had it on our car now for years. Zero issues. I also have one on my track bike and my RCF. Both companies make a quality product, so I have no qualms with switching back and forth between them. I also like that the Stahlbus comes with either a normal screw on cap or a racing cap that one can safety wire. However, the normal cap is nice since it has an oring, IF it were to fail you still have another barrier to hold the oil, whereas the fumoto you do not. Note I've never had either fail. I would only purchase one of the above and not some generic eBay/amazon off brand just to save a couple bucks... it's not worth it to me at all.
Picture from years ago:
Fumoto:
Stahlbus:
Drainage rate is about the same. Any time you add a valve oil drainage will slow down but honestly, it's so convenient that it doesn't even bother me. It's nice to open the valve, walk away and then come back and it's empty.
-Nigel
Last edited by NewShockerGuy; 12-21-2022 at 04:37 AM.
If you look at the oics above, you'll see that there's a slight lip in the pan where the drain plug goes in. So, if anyone thinks there're draining out every last bit there're incorrect. There will be a "layer" left at the bottom of the pan, no way around it. I would argue that pumping out the oil gets as much or perhaps even more of that out if one gets the tube all the way to the bottom. I've been doing it on my 2009 e350 for 13 years without a problem. If worried about sludge... pour a sacrificial quart in for a bit of a rinse and pump or drain (your preference) that out.
I've been a boat owner for 30+ years and I can tell you that no one, and i do mean no one will pull the oil drain plug on an inboard diesel motor to drain the oil and that works just fine. Smaller diesels and even gas outboards we pump through the dipstick like I do in my e350. The big ones however, are all equipped with Reverso-oil pumps permanently mounted. Flip the switch and oil is pumped out. Flip it again to pump fresh oil in.
Pump vs drain? Probably splitting hairs. But why go through the work of jacking the car (always includes some risk) if you don't have to unless you just like doing stuff like that, and I'm not trying to be funny. I like tinkering on my boats unnecessarily, so I guess the same applies to cars.
I like getting the car in the air mainly because I can check things under the car. I also check tires/brakes..etc. So when the car is in the air and I have the plastic under panels off, I am seeing if anything is worn/torn/ or leaks/drips..etc. I'd much rather find something early on than to have something happen when I don't want it (which is how life normally throws it at ya) and be stranded or in an area that I can't fix it. It's actually how I just caught an oil leak at the back of the engine with the breather assembly. While I was there, I swapped out all 3 plastic plugs which were brittle with time/heat.
Agree with you though, sucking or draining oil really shouldn't make a huge deal so long you are changing the oil at a frequent interval. I've seen people go way too long on changing out stuff. Oil is cheap, DIY on many items is even cheaper and easy on these cars.
10-13-2011, 09:58 AM
