Lowered front end today in 15 minutes
#26
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Originally posted by EPower
Lowered the rear end today...man what a difference! With the 275's on the rear and lowered about 1.25 inches, I think it looks much better. All it took was about 30 minutes and a Dremel tool. tbone was right, just a little movement in the sensor lowers the car quite a bit. I bet I slotted and moved the sensor bracket down just over 1/8 inch and got about an inch an a half. I initially slotted it out about 1/4 inch, but it resulted in nearly 2 inches of drop. With my 275's I was afraid of it rubbing at speed. The nice thing is that once you have Dremel'd out the slots, you can adjust the bracket up and down the slot, subsequently adjusting the ride height of your car. It only takes about 5 minutes to loosen the two 10mm nuts, re-position the bracket and retighten the nuts. BE SURE TO RAISE AND LOWER THE CAR EVERY TIME YOU ADJUST THE BRACKET, as I found it necessary to reset the ride height. Will post some pics in the morning.
Bottom line is this, for the cost of a few washers and maybe a total of 1.5 hours of your time, even someone who has very little mechanical experience can lower your E to where it looks much more natural of a ride. Not the stock 4x4 look, or the slammed down look either...
Lowered the rear end today...man what a difference! With the 275's on the rear and lowered about 1.25 inches, I think it looks much better. All it took was about 30 minutes and a Dremel tool. tbone was right, just a little movement in the sensor lowers the car quite a bit. I bet I slotted and moved the sensor bracket down just over 1/8 inch and got about an inch an a half. I initially slotted it out about 1/4 inch, but it resulted in nearly 2 inches of drop. With my 275's I was afraid of it rubbing at speed. The nice thing is that once you have Dremel'd out the slots, you can adjust the bracket up and down the slot, subsequently adjusting the ride height of your car. It only takes about 5 minutes to loosen the two 10mm nuts, re-position the bracket and retighten the nuts. BE SURE TO RAISE AND LOWER THE CAR EVERY TIME YOU ADJUST THE BRACKET, as I found it necessary to reset the ride height. Will post some pics in the morning.
Bottom line is this, for the cost of a few washers and maybe a total of 1.5 hours of your time, even someone who has very little mechanical experience can lower your E to where it looks much more natural of a ride. Not the stock 4x4 look, or the slammed down look either...
Rear before...
Rear after...about 1 1/4 inches or approx. 32 mm for you metrics..
Here are some pics of what I did. I know it is a bit hard to tell exactly where/what these pics are, but basically you are re-setting the location of the bottom two bolts that hold the base of the sensor to the frame of the car. It is located to the left of center (driver side) near the rear axle. The top of the sensor is attached to the sway bar, but you can not even really see the sway bar, and don't need to. Just jack up the rear driver side to give you a bit of clearance to crawl under. Putting it up on a lift would make this job easier, but you don;t need to.
Bracket nuts removed w/ original holes...
After slotting w/ Dremel...
Nuts reinstalled...
Actually after the last picture the car was too low for me and I adjusted back up about half of the way up the slots. Very little movement creates quite a drop, so there is not much cutting to do. Have fun...
#28
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E-Power, I'm glad u figured it out! I think u should go a bit lower though...will look even more aggressive. My car looks about an inch wider coming down the street.
#30
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i'm not sure how TWS does the rear. I think they do the same...when i called and asked what they did, they were pretty tight lipped, only saying they use a kit for the front, and "modify" the rear. besides, why buy a kit, when notching out the holes is free?
#31
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Thread Starter
Originally posted by tbone
E-Power, I'm glad u figured it out! I think u should go a bit lower though...will look even more aggressive. My car looks about an inch wider coming down the street.
E-Power, I'm glad u figured it out! I think u should go a bit lower though...will look even more aggressive. My car looks about an inch wider coming down the street.
#34
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Re: lowering the rear
Originally posted by wknoe
How do you lower an e320 with no airmatic in the rear?
How do you lower an e320 with no airmatic in the rear?
#35
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2010 Prius & Miata MX5 PRHT, 2010 Toyota Venza AWD, 05 C55 AMG, Yamaha 1100 Custom, Honda 250 Reflex
Thank you EPower and tbone for sharing your lowering techniques!
Question, did you ever encounter any problems with the shocks bottoming out or the tires hitting the fenders with the suspension at the comfort (softest) setting after lowering?
At long last, the right mufflers for my car has arrived (Part Number B6-6-03-6142)! Will have them installed on Thursday at AMG Performance....photos to follow.
If time will allow it, I'll have them lower the car too.
Question, did you ever encounter any problems with the shocks bottoming out or the tires hitting the fenders with the suspension at the comfort (softest) setting after lowering?
At long last, the right mufflers for my car has arrived (Part Number B6-6-03-6142)! Will have them installed on Thursday at AMG Performance....photos to follow.
If time will allow it, I'll have them lower the car too.
#36
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Thread Starter
Originally posted by benggolf
Thank you EPower and tbone for sharing your lowering techniques!
Question, did you ever encounter any problems with the shocks bottoming out or the tires hitting the fenders with the suspension at the comfort (softest) setting after lowering?
At long last, the right mufflers for my car has arrived (Part Number B6-6-03-6142)! Will have them installed on Thursday at AMG Performance....photos to follow.
If time will allow it, I'll have them lower the car too.
Thank you EPower and tbone for sharing your lowering techniques!
Question, did you ever encounter any problems with the shocks bottoming out or the tires hitting the fenders with the suspension at the comfort (softest) setting after lowering?
At long last, the right mufflers for my car has arrived (Part Number B6-6-03-6142)! Will have them installed on Thursday at AMG Performance....photos to follow.
If time will allow it, I'll have them lower the car too.
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2010 Prius & Miata MX5 PRHT, 2010 Toyota Venza AWD, 05 C55 AMG, Yamaha 1100 Custom, Honda 250 Reflex
Originally posted by EPower
For me, no problems or rubbing at all. I don't think I went quite as low as tbone. Airmatic still has all the factory abilities, and the car rides just as smoothly as stock.
For me, no problems or rubbing at all. I don't think I went quite as low as tbone. Airmatic still has all the factory abilities, and the car rides just as smoothly as stock.
#38
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Benggolf, no problems with bottoming out or tires rubbing, and i drive in comfort mode. as far as ride quality, i used to ride in sport-1 mode prior to lowering. post-lowering, i now ride in comfort mode, which i would say, in regards to comfort, is about 3/4 of the way between comfort and sport-1 prior to lowering. I am extremely happy with the comfort level! And surprisingly, I measured the distance from the floor to the top of my fender well. It is 25", which is the same height as my friend's Acura Integra, which is not lowered! I had an Accord which was lowered about 3", and I had problems bottoming out. I even wore out the bump stops on that car. Go low with the E if you desire! The ride is pretty good.
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2010 Prius & Miata MX5 PRHT, 2010 Toyota Venza AWD, 05 C55 AMG, Yamaha 1100 Custom, Honda 250 Reflex
Originally posted by tbone
Benggolf, no problems with bottoming out or tires rubbing, and i drive in comfort mode. as far as ride quality, i used to ride in sport-1 mode prior to lowering. post-lowering, i now ride in comfort mode, which i would say, in regards to comfort, is about 3/4 of the way between comfort and sport-1 prior to lowering. I am extremely happy with the comfort level! And surprisingly, I measured the distance from the floor to the top of my fender well. It is 25", which is the same height as my friend's Acura Integra, which is not lowered! I had an Accord which was lowered about 3", and I had problems bottoming out. I even wore out the bump stops on that car. Go low with the E if you desire! The ride is pretty good.
Benggolf, no problems with bottoming out or tires rubbing, and i drive in comfort mode. as far as ride quality, i used to ride in sport-1 mode prior to lowering. post-lowering, i now ride in comfort mode, which i would say, in regards to comfort, is about 3/4 of the way between comfort and sport-1 prior to lowering. I am extremely happy with the comfort level! And surprisingly, I measured the distance from the floor to the top of my fender well. It is 25", which is the same height as my friend's Acura Integra, which is not lowered! I had an Accord which was lowered about 3", and I had problems bottoming out. I even wore out the bump stops on that car. Go low with the E if you desire! The ride is pretty good.
#42
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Tezta: no i didn't think of the great washer idea. My friend, who grew up in a family of NASCAR racing, lowered my car for me. He has an S and CL, lowered of course. His S is on 21's and his CL is on chrome 20" Lorinsers. he has lowered many of his other friends S classes. He makes his own links, similar to TWS's, etc. His links however, look EXACTLY like the MB links. Furthermore, they are non adjustable. The aftermarket ones I've seen have a bolt in middle which allow for height adjustment. Mine is one length, about a 2" drop. Also, the aftermarket links I've seen are a straight link, but if you look at the OEM link, there are curves in it. My friends follow these curves. This probably puts less stress on the suspension. My friend is going to make another link which won't drop the car as much. I have seen some aftermarket links, and they are aluminum in color. My friend's are the same color, and he even stamps a MB serial number on it ...hard for a MB tech to know it's aftermarket.
SF49ers: sure thing
Benggolf: everything stays exactly the same, except the car sits lower. my car still stiffens up/lowers in sport mode, still lowers at freeway speed, and still rises via button. i was surprised because i thought i would need to use that raise button to clear driveways, speed bumps, etc...not at all...the 2 inch drop gives plenty of clearance...but i suppose clearance is all relative...i couldn't even fit a fist under my Honda...my E500 obviously feels like a SUV to me.
SF49ers: sure thing
Benggolf: everything stays exactly the same, except the car sits lower. my car still stiffens up/lowers in sport mode, still lowers at freeway speed, and still rises via button. i was surprised because i thought i would need to use that raise button to clear driveways, speed bumps, etc...not at all...the 2 inch drop gives plenty of clearance...but i suppose clearance is all relative...i couldn't even fit a fist under my Honda...my E500 obviously feels like a SUV to me.
Last edited by tbone; 07-09-2003 at 03:09 AM.
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Originally posted by tbone
Benggolf: everything stays exactly the same, except the car sits lower. my car still stiffens up/lowers in sport mode, still lowers at freeway speed, and still rises via button. i was surprised because i thought i would need to use that raise button to clear driveways, speed bumps, etc...not at all...the 2 inch drop gives plenty of clearance...but i suppose clearance is all relative...i couldn't even fit a fist under my Honda...my E500 obviously feels like a SUV to me.
Benggolf: everything stays exactly the same, except the car sits lower. my car still stiffens up/lowers in sport mode, still lowers at freeway speed, and still rises via button. i was surprised because i thought i would need to use that raise button to clear driveways, speed bumps, etc...not at all...the 2 inch drop gives plenty of clearance...but i suppose clearance is all relative...i couldn't even fit a fist under my Honda...my E500 obviously feels like a SUV to me.
#45
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211E55, CLK55(sold), LX470, LS430
tbone,
did you had to to wheel alignment after you lowered the car?
i live in the bay area too and was wondering if you could help me lower the car since you seem to be very knowledgeable and i am not too confident doing it myself.
thanks.
did you had to to wheel alignment after you lowered the car?
i live in the bay area too and was wondering if you could help me lower the car since you seem to be very knowledgeable and i am not too confident doing it myself.
thanks.
#46
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sf49ers, if i remember correctly, you have the adjustable links on the front, so it will take some tinkering to lower both front sides to the same height. i'm not sure how Topline lowered your rear, but if they moved the sensor as I did, both rear sides will be the same height. The sensor controls both sides, whereas the front links are independent to each side. good luck. to see if your car is at the same height, simply measure the height from the ground to the top of the fender well, and make sure it's the same measurement on all 4 sides
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211E55, CLK55(sold), LX470, LS430
Originally posted by sf49ers79
Hey fiftyfive why dont we meet together when you want to lower it yours. so that we can help each other?
Hey fiftyfive why dont we meet together when you want to lower it yours. so that we can help each other?
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Originally posted by tbone
... And surprisingly, I measured the distance from the floor to the top of my fender well. It is 25", which is the same height as my friend's Acura Integra, which is not lowered! ...
... And surprisingly, I measured the distance from the floor to the top of my fender well. It is 25", which is the same height as my friend's Acura Integra, which is not lowered! ...
Haven't lowered the car yet but i started to measure the distance from the floor to the top of the fender well and here's what i got - 26 inches at the front (right is 1/4" higher than left); and 25 7/16" at the rear. Comparing with your numbers, I guess I only have little room left to lower the car to make sure there is no problem with "bottoming out".
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
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Honda Accord EX V6
Originally posted by fiftyfive4me
works for me. we just have to coordinate with tbone, to be in good hands, so to speak. i live in castro valley, where do you live?
works for me. we just have to coordinate with tbone, to be in good hands, so to speak. i live in castro valley, where do you live?