Brake problems solved now 3000 dollar PROBLEM
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E500
Brake problems solved now 3000 dollar PROBLEM
I took my 03 e500 sport in for warranty work, the first problem was that i received a call saying that the c2131 code "presser tank" is not under warrenty. So i said ok went to get the car get in and noticed the gauges changed the bars on the fuel and temp lights are now solid and the cruise control bars no longer work and is no longer shows avg. Mpgs, along with ecp light is now on. I had my service manager sign saying that they are not the same as what they were so i have proof that something changed. when i brought the car in they said they would try to fix it they then found a way to place the brake issue under warranty so they fixed that for me. now the next problem is they said the only way to fix the ecp light and the rest of it is to replace the dash?? thats 3000 later i can still drive the car but i already know down the road the car wont sell easy because of this problem. now my question is when they hook up the computer to the car to scan it is this just a passive hookup, when i saw it hooked up the clock was spinning. also when i got into the car the clock was not set at the right time maybe that the car died and they jump started it
causing something to get a surge and breaking it. does anyone know how this could happen i really dont want to pay for this. any suggestions?
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#2
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2010 ML550, 2010 E350 4M, 1966 Corvette Convt C2
I took my 03 e500 sport in for warranty work, the first problem was that i received a call saying that the c2131 code "presser tank" is not under warrenty. So i said ok went to get the car get in and noticed the gauges changed the bars on the fuel and temp lights are now solid and the cruise control bars no longer work and is no longer shows avg. Mpgs, along with ecp light is now on. I had my service manager sign saying that they are not the same as what they were so i have proof that something changed. when i brought the car in they said they would try to fix it they then found a way to place the brake issue under warranty so they fixed that for me. now the next problem is they said the only way to fix the ecp light and the rest of it is to replace the dash?? thats 3000 later i can still drive the car but i already know down the road the car wont sell easy because of this problem. now my question is when they hook up the computer to the car to scan it is this just a passive hookup, when i saw it hooked up the clock was spinning. also when i got into the car the clock was not set at the right time maybe that the car died and they jump started it
causing something to get a surge and breaking it. does anyone know how this could happen i really dont want to pay for this. any suggestions?
![wwf](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/chairshot.gif)
#3
I believe he is simply saying that he took his car in to the dealer and there was an issue that was not covered. That issue was eventually covered by the dealer anyway through some clever use of the remaining warranty. But, that is really not the issue, the issue is that the car went into the dealer with one problem and came out with another problem. That secondary problem seems to be the dash is malfunctioning.
I find it terrible that the dealer would agree and go so far as to sign something that more or less says it is their fault your dash is messed up, but they would not just go ahead and replace it. From what I am reading, you are entitled to a new dash, as it seems like it was their fault for ruining it in the first place.
As for your actual question, no, the STAR ("hook up the computer") stuff they do is not just passive. You could do an entirely passive check of the system, but STAR is made to be able to test just about every part of your car that the computer controls, by design, it can't be passive to do that. I am not familiar with issues regarding STAR, but I do know that in former vehicles, there were certain things that were prone to happen if someone operating the ODBII tool (insert manufacture name, be it STAR for MB, or VAGCOM in VW speak, etc) didn't do everything just right.
I find it terrible that the dealer would agree and go so far as to sign something that more or less says it is their fault your dash is messed up, but they would not just go ahead and replace it. From what I am reading, you are entitled to a new dash, as it seems like it was their fault for ruining it in the first place.
As for your actual question, no, the STAR ("hook up the computer") stuff they do is not just passive. You could do an entirely passive check of the system, but STAR is made to be able to test just about every part of your car that the computer controls, by design, it can't be passive to do that. I am not familiar with issues regarding STAR, but I do know that in former vehicles, there were certain things that were prone to happen if someone operating the ODBII tool (insert manufacture name, be it STAR for MB, or VAGCOM in VW speak, etc) didn't do everything just right.
#6
I had a friend of mine who tried to jump start the car that caused his dashboard cluster shorted and fried. If you have signature from service advisor stating that cluster was fine when you brought car over then you should insist making them replace it at no cost to you.
#7
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I don't think this issue would necessitate a replacement off all the dashboard (or cluster) electronics... my intuition tells me that this is something STAR can rectify or some simple trick. Either way if the dealer messed it up they are liable.
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Hello Morten how do you reset it with turning the steering wheel , car on? Or car off? And what about if I disconnect both battery's ? What's the one under the hood for ? Would it maybe help if I unplugged the cluster ?
#11
The reset procedure is to put your key in, start the car, turn your steering wheel lock-to-lock, return your wheel to center, and then turn your car off. Wait 30-60 seconds and turn it back on. The ESP and adaptive headlamps (if you have them) should now be reset. I believe it does not matter if you turn the wheel all the way left or all the way right first. I do think that pausing about 2-3 seconds on each side helps.
By the way, where did you get with your dash problem? I have a similar dash problem. Lights are stuck on. Instruments frozen in place. Among other things. Wondering if you can let us know more symptoms and/or post a video to youtube and link here. I will do the same with mine so we can compare.
By the way, where did you get with your dash problem? I have a similar dash problem. Lights are stuck on. Instruments frozen in place. Among other things. Wondering if you can let us know more symptoms and/or post a video to youtube and link here. I will do the same with mine so we can compare.