spyroz

((( The BEST way to lower your car, is Pay a professional to do it for you! )))

But, if you're cheap like me, then DIY Hey, I'm not rich. If you're rich then skip this post, but if you're NOT, then You can do what I did

Well, I start out by pulling the wheels off. NO sh@t Sherlock! Hey, I gotta say what I did first...haha. Any way, I went straight to the rear and trying to pull the springs out. But, the 08 W211 E350 is NOT easy as it Look. The rear springs is a bit tricky to take it out than the front strut. You will need a buddy or your brother to help you, that would be great. ( just paid your buddy $5 buck or a beer, in this case that's what I did ) hahaha. Or if you have brother you can if your bro didn't wanna help you. Any way, let go on with the show....


That's how it look like when you pull the wheels off, YES- I'm NOT Kidding!

Later, your buddy will need to step on this brake disc. to force the suspension down. It'll be okay, is not going to hurt the bushing.



Don't bother trying to take the lower control arms off!




Ok so I got the Rear Springs secure in place....Phew! Actually it took me like 3 hrs trying to pull the springs off, because I didn't know what to do. I've search on the forum for help but got very little and there's some Post DIY, but it wasn't very helpful. So I decided to make 1. Well, if I didn't do a good job of posting a DIY to lowering springs than sue me, Sh*t at lease I trying to help another Cheap *** guy like me, trying to lowering his car. I'm NO mechanic or technician. Any way, it only took me like 15 min to complete on the other side of the rear springs.
Back on to the Lowering - Now let me say this, the front of 08 W211 E350 strut and springs is a piece of cake to take off, how ever if you don't have a springs compressor then there's no point to take it off. Or, ( you can rent 1 from pepboys for about $50 buck then return it, they will give you a full refund, which cost you NOTHING! Taaaataaaaa ) Problems solve!



I Mean there isn't a lot.....hey, get off my back alright! cut me some slack here.










So the front suspension is very easy to work with, very basic. But it took me the whole freaking day to do it...haha, oh and a 6 pack of beer! ... you gotta enjoy what you do So, good luck on your DIY lowering. You don't have to follow my step if you have a better way of doing it, Like I said. The BEST way to lowering your Car is take it to the shop and let the Professional handle it. It will cost you 1 control arm, and 1 leg. Keep posting! Thanks, come again

abu_gaby

Wow nicle done :thumbsup:

spyroz

Okay! I have a few UPDATE since my lowering. I must say, this has giving me some headache, searching for the best solution on how to keep the car running right after I've lower it. But, here's some more info for you. I recommend that you do this, while you're still on the process of lowering your car, otherwise you'll have to re-do every thing over. Good luck, it will save you a lot of times. I has re-do it like 2 or 3 times to get it right.


MB Dealers charge me $39.95 for each bolts. That's $159.80 just for 4 bolts. WTH?







I aslo have to add 2 extra plastic washer shimmer to the bottom of the Eibach Springs, and that cost me $9.95 a piece and it take 2 piece to make 1 washer. A total of 4 piece on each side of the strut. Come out a total to: $79.60+Uncle Sam = too damn expensive!
But it will help raise your height up to about 0.90" for a better camber & alignment. Because I'm at -2.73 degree in front and -1.2 degree on rear.

((( Eibach front springs is too LOW! ))) I would NOT recommend Eibach springs. Save yourself some money and go with the KW V1 coil/strut.



















I strip both of the strut bolts! Lucky these bolts aren't very expensive at your local MB Dealer.

spinn

mine looks about as low as yours...what was your alignment numbers for front and rear before the alignment?

spyroz

If you look at the picture, it said right there on the pictures.

spinn

I know you show camber, but what about caster and toe? And are those numbers before or after?

spyroz

Oh, I have another alignment to do, so I will post it up for you.

Well, finally I get a chance to upload this alignment result up. This is what I've to settle for...but the ride is smooth, great cornering. The only problem is that your tires will wear out a little bit faster.

MSP300

What kind of springs did you use?

Joeydimes25

Great writeup! Could you possibly post before and after pics? Looks good on the lift, but would love to see it on the ground. Thanks!

isstay

Few questions regarding some bad advices in your DIY.

1. Why did you cut the original stop damper, it is the only thing that will prevent your shock from bottoming and breaking which in your case can happened anyway because you reused the OEM shocks that are little longer (like 11mm) than sport suspension shocks.

2. Why you put more washers instead of moving the support ring that is under the bottom spring retainer, thus, you can raise or lower the base on which spring sits but this will also change your spring rate. This also can be used to achieve so called raked appearance even on OEM suspension assuming that the ring is not already placed on the bottom.

Silver07

I am assuming that is why he has the clanking and clicking noises he posted happening to him on his eibach install?? i am going with the H&R assuming the eibachs had this problem with the Sport package, from what i heard from others is they just installed their H&R's into their sport e350 with no problems at all or extra parts to buy.

isstay

He should not have issues w/either set if done properly. His shocks may be are hitting the bottom now, or there is something else who no one cares to do or mention because they do not know: in every case you lower a car you have to get all bolts and nuts loosen at every corner of the car you working, thus means lower and upper control arms , torsion links, stabilizer bar links, because when you car goes down all that have to have new position in which should be tighten (new working position). If this is done there will be less future problems w/torn bushings.

Hondo78

So the headache could have been less painful if you started with the shorter struts up front?
Does anyone have part numbers for complete front struts W211? Or is there a better choice from an aftermarket OEM supplier?

spyroz

I figure out what is the clacking noise what, it's the rear tie rod end, I forgot to tighten one of them, lol.

And the reason why I cut the foam is that to ensure the drop will not hit the bottom when you hit a bump, that allow the strut to moves more freely because of the lowering springs.

Fernando Lojero

Edwin 550