E-Class (W211) 2003-2009

2003 E320 Check Engine/ABS/EPS Malfunction

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Old Nov 28, 2012 | 01:12 AM
  #1  
03BenzE320's Avatar
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2003 E320
2003 E320 Check Engine/ABS/EPS Malfunction

I have a 2003 E320 Sedan (not 4Matic and not Wagon.) It has about 90,000 miles on it. Originally, when I would start the car, it would say "Coven. Functions Temporarily Unavailable." This would go away after about 10 minutes of driving allowing full AC, seat movements, etc. This error came on several times over the course of 6 months I guess. The next issue, I believe was a lit up red battery and Visit Work Shop. Shortly thereafter, I had ABS malfunction and SBC malfunction flashing. The dash looked like a Christmas tree. I believe the car entered into limp mode. Power was cut, it wouldn't shift gears, brakes seemed to fade a bit, possibly lack of power steering, and flashing dash. I eventually pulled over on a side street. There were warnings and beeping. I believe the car shut off. It started again, but would do the same thing. Then it stopped starting. I read several articles about what might be the caused and proceeded to do the following:

1) Replaced the rear battery (this was not the issue.)
2) Replaced the auxiliary battery (this was not the issue.)
3) Pulled the alternator and replaced the voltage regulator (this removed the SBC malfunction and Red Battery Warning.)

However, when I start the car, I still have the following malfunctions on the dash:

1) ABS Malfunction--Visit Workshop!
2) ABS (Yellow Light) Lit on Dash
3) ESP Malfunction--Visit Workshop!

After about 15 minutes of driving, the Check Engine Light just came on.
As an FYI, I checked voltage at the battery while resting (engine off) and it was 12.18 volts. After starting the car, the voltage at the battery was 14.18 volts.
The brakes seem a little bit soft, but not bad--it was considerably worse before when the car was "shutting down."

I feel like I've been replacing everything on this car. I heard about the brake switch under the pedal, but doubt that's it. Voltage seems good now, so I'm thinking the Alternator is good. Wondering if maybe I need to have the codes reset? What would cause the Check Engine Light to come on? Also, I know the SRS system had some issues in this model year, and it is a replaceable part under Mercedes Benz recall--although not mandatory. This expires in a few months, so I want to make sure I get it corrected, should that be the issue.

Hope I provided enough information. Any help would be appreciated as I'm struggling to fix this. Thanks in advance.
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Old Nov 28, 2012 | 06:52 AM
  #2  
enochbell's Avatar
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2004 E500 Wagon
Try recalibrating by: 1.) with steering wheel pointed straight ahead start the car; 2.) rotate wheel full left, full right, back to center; 3.) turn ignition off and remove fob; 4.) restart

Worked for me after battery replacement,

Greg
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Old May 14, 2013 | 09:38 PM
  #3  
greatbranch's Avatar
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e320
Recalibrating

Thanks,
I just had the problem with the ABS messages and dash light after disconnecting the battery.

The recalibrating trick worked. Actually astonished by it.
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Old Feb 24, 2014 | 08:42 PM
  #4  
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E320
Hi guys...
So, I had the battery in the trunk disconnected for about a week while I was getting parts to replace the fuel sending unit.
Got everything reinstalled connected battery and first thing I got was a coven function warning for the battery, however it went away in about 10 seconds. I drove the car for about two days with the same message comming up sometimes when I start the car.
This morning when I pulled the car to go to work, after I just got on the road I got the following errors: ABS, EPS and big red Brake error on the dash...I could barrely use the breaks at 10 miles an hour.
When I came home the car only had the ABS error, which went away as soon as I moved the care for a few feet.
I checked at autozone the load on the battery in the trunk to be at 80% and puting out 12.35V. Did not check the front battery since I dont know the amps on it.
Also the car reads 12.1 V when shutoff (on the display) when cranking it goes to about 10.2 V and stays at 14.2 V when running.
I recalibrated as indicated in this post earlier but I'm scared to drive it now
What are the specs for the front battery so I can have it tested?

Could it be just a calibration isssue ? Any toughts,...thanks.

Thanks
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