Engine Stalling - 2005 W211 E500
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Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 43
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2005 E500
Engine Stalling - 2005 W211 E500 [UPDATE: PROBLEM SOLVED!]
Gentlemen, any assistance or insight with my issue would be greatly appreciated.
As stated in the thread title, I have a 2005 E500. It was purchased brand new and has been dealer serviced up until it's last oil change which I successfully did myself with tips I learned here.
At about 41,000 miles, the car developed a stalling problem. The engine just quits quickly, no sputtering, just out like the ignition has been turned off. Initially, it would start up right away but the check engine light would turn on and stay on for the rest of the day. It always turns itself off after a few starts.
Lately the stalling has become more frequent and the engine will not restart until it has cooled off. Now the car will only stay running for a few minutes when cold, and for less than a minute when warm. It always starts when cold, it just wont stay running.
I've determined that it's still getting fuel pressure by checking the valve on the fuel rail. Gasoline squirts out even after the engine has stalled. There doesn't appear to be an obvious short in any wiring I can see. The fuel cap is sealing properly. It seems to be an issue related to when the car reaches operating temperature. I have not determined if there is no spark, but I have a sneaking suspicion there isn't.
Any ideas what the problem could be? I know it's not much to go on, but any suggestions would be great.
Thanks.
As stated in the thread title, I have a 2005 E500. It was purchased brand new and has been dealer serviced up until it's last oil change which I successfully did myself with tips I learned here.
At about 41,000 miles, the car developed a stalling problem. The engine just quits quickly, no sputtering, just out like the ignition has been turned off. Initially, it would start up right away but the check engine light would turn on and stay on for the rest of the day. It always turns itself off after a few starts.
Lately the stalling has become more frequent and the engine will not restart until it has cooled off. Now the car will only stay running for a few minutes when cold, and for less than a minute when warm. It always starts when cold, it just wont stay running.
I've determined that it's still getting fuel pressure by checking the valve on the fuel rail. Gasoline squirts out even after the engine has stalled. There doesn't appear to be an obvious short in any wiring I can see. The fuel cap is sealing properly. It seems to be an issue related to when the car reaches operating temperature. I have not determined if there is no spark, but I have a sneaking suspicion there isn't.
Any ideas what the problem could be? I know it's not much to go on, but any suggestions would be great.
Thanks.
Last edited by Buelligan; Dec 11, 2012 at 04:18 PM.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2011
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2005 E500
I did a quick search of the forum (what an excellent resource) and the problem may be related to the crank position sensor based on the similar issues I've read.
Is there a way to confirm that this could be the problem? I'd hate to just start throwing money at an electrical problem... that never seems to work.
I'm at least feeling better that this is a familiar issue with the car. I love my E500, it's the most spectacular car I've ever had. My first foreign car, actually. I love the performance and comfort... not so much the dealer service manager who I always think just sees dollar signs when I come by.
Is there a way to confirm that this could be the problem? I'd hate to just start throwing money at an electrical problem... that never seems to work.
I'm at least feeling better that this is a familiar issue with the car. I love my E500, it's the most spectacular car I've ever had. My first foreign car, actually. I love the performance and comfort... not so much the dealer service manager who I always think just sees dollar signs when I come by.
Member
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 244
Likes: 4
From: PA, USA
2004 E320 4matic Sedan
Crankshaft position sensor, probably
Search for crankshaft position sensor on this forum.
The car has the classic symptoms (stalls when hot, won't restart until cold)
You can either
a) just buy a new one and replace the old one. It isn't hard to do.
b) get yourself a code reader and wait for it to happen again. Then post the codes you get to this forum.
The car has the classic symptoms (stalls when hot, won't restart until cold)
You can either
a) just buy a new one and replace the old one. It isn't hard to do.
b) get yourself a code reader and wait for it to happen again. Then post the codes you get to this forum.
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Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 43
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2005 E500
Yeah, from what I've read it does seem to be the CPS. I can borrow a code reader to confirm.
I'm really jazzed I at least have a clue what the problem could be. After a lifetime of pushrod small-block Chevy powered vehicles, that MB V-8 was a really daunting sight once I got the airbox off.
This place rocks.
I'm really jazzed I at least have a clue what the problem could be. After a lifetime of pushrod small-block Chevy powered vehicles, that MB V-8 was a really daunting sight once I got the airbox off.
This place rocks.
Member
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 244
Likes: 4
From: PA, USA
2004 E320 4matic Sedan
It may look daunting, but they are very well laid-out..
the MB is quite well designed for maintenance. (there are few things to drive you nuts like alternators and engine mounts).
The main thing is to identify and focus on specific systems when troubleshooting and don't get distracted by the totality of all the wires, hoses and leads. Divide and conquer usually works.
The main thing is to identify and focus on specific systems when troubleshooting and don't get distracted by the totality of all the wires, hoses and leads. Divide and conquer usually works.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 43
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2005 E500
From what little work I've done on the car myself (just an oil change and and a rear brake pad replacement at this point) I'm starting to find that out.
This forum was invaluable for the pad replacement. I didn't have a clue about the potential hazards the SBC could have caused if activated during the brake service. Thank goodness I checked here first. Pretty simple job to unplug the SBC unit, but I would never have known to do it on my own.
Thanks for the immediate reply, btw. I really appreciate the help. I learned quite a bit today thanks to this forum.
This forum was invaluable for the pad replacement. I didn't have a clue about the potential hazards the SBC could have caused if activated during the brake service. Thank goodness I checked here first. Pretty simple job to unplug the SBC unit, but I would never have known to do it on my own.
Thanks for the immediate reply, btw. I really appreciate the help. I learned quite a bit today thanks to this forum.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 43
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2005 E500
Success! Thanks to information gleaned from this forum and some excellent PDFs from Konigstiger (Thanks Dan) I was able to avoid a costly tow and repair and replace the faulty CPS unit myself for less than what a tank of gas costs. The R&R was easy with the information provided by those who went before me and posted about it here.
Thank you, gentlemen. This experience is a perfect example of what can be great about Internet forums.
I'm so glad I found this place... you'll never be rid of me now!
Thank you, gentlemen. This experience is a perfect example of what can be great about Internet forums.
I'm so glad I found this place... you'll never be rid of me now!
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Joined: Mar 2013
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2003 Mercedes Benz E320
[QUOTE=Buelligan;5454038]Gentlemen, any assistance or insight with my issue would be greatly appreciated.
As stated in the thread title, I have a 2005 E500. It was purchased brand new and has been dealer serviced up until it's last oil change which I successfully did myself with tips I learned here.
At about 41,000 miles, the car developed a stalling problem. The engine just quits quickly, no sputtering, just out like the ignition has been turned off. Initially, it would start up right away but the check engine light would turn on and stay on for the rest of the day. It always turns itself off after a few starts.
Lately the stalling has become more frequent and the engine will not restart until it has cooled off. Now the car will only stay running for a few minutes when cold, and for less than a minute when warm. It always starts when cold, it just wont stay running.
I've determined that it's still getting fuel pressure by checking the valve on the fuel rail. Gasoline squirts out even after the engine has stalled. There doesn't appear to be an obvious short in any wiring I can see. The fuel cap is sealing properly. It seems to be an issue related to when the car reaches operating temperature. I have not determined if there is no spark, but I have a sneaking suspicion there isn't.
Any ideas what the problem could be? I know it's not much to go on, but any suggestions would be great.
Change the crank position sensor, I just had it done on my car. Buy the sensor from Mercedes Benz. Do not buy after market. It's a little more expensive, however, you know what you are getting. Agree?
As stated in the thread title, I have a 2005 E500. It was purchased brand new and has been dealer serviced up until it's last oil change which I successfully did myself with tips I learned here.
At about 41,000 miles, the car developed a stalling problem. The engine just quits quickly, no sputtering, just out like the ignition has been turned off. Initially, it would start up right away but the check engine light would turn on and stay on for the rest of the day. It always turns itself off after a few starts.
Lately the stalling has become more frequent and the engine will not restart until it has cooled off. Now the car will only stay running for a few minutes when cold, and for less than a minute when warm. It always starts when cold, it just wont stay running.
I've determined that it's still getting fuel pressure by checking the valve on the fuel rail. Gasoline squirts out even after the engine has stalled. There doesn't appear to be an obvious short in any wiring I can see. The fuel cap is sealing properly. It seems to be an issue related to when the car reaches operating temperature. I have not determined if there is no spark, but I have a sneaking suspicion there isn't.
Any ideas what the problem could be? I know it's not much to go on, but any suggestions would be great.
Change the crank position sensor, I just had it done on my car. Buy the sensor from Mercedes Benz. Do not buy after market. It's a little more expensive, however, you know what you are getting. Agree?
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