Why Change Spark Plugs at 5 years?
09-23-2013, 10:18 PM
#26
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06 S211 E500 4Matic
Critter, good point. However, I don't think most people put that many miles on these cars. W211 owners with 30k-80k miles should, in my opinion, put spark plugs pretty low on their to-do list. I know I have one of the highest mileage W211s on the board with 154k miles, so I am usually that guy who gets to do those maintenance items, but I think you can truly gauge how reliable a car is after 100k, because frankly, the car should be problem-free until then (I know that W211s don't fall under this category as there is a whole thread with recalls and service campaigns, but that's another discussion).
Air filters are different though and would fall under the engine oil/filter category of preventative maintenance.
Air filters are different though and would fall under the engine oil/filter category of preventative maintenance.
Last edited by 06E5004ME; 09-23-2013 at 10:20 PM.
11-17-2013, 09:06 PM
#27
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E320 2002
The plugs in my car, with 67,160 miles, backed out cleanly.
The boot sure fits snug, creating a good seal in the plug "silo"... I under if that would trap any spin-off from burning anti-seize compounds? Anyhow, I read this post top to bottom first, and decided to follow the recommendations. We'll see how things go next time I have to replace the plugs.
Bosch YR7MPP33, which is exactly what came out. Ordered them online Sunday evening, they were waiting for me, on my doorstep, Tuesday afternoon... $44.52, after tax, title, and license... $54.07 delivered.
The boot sure fits snug, creating a good seal in the plug "silo"... I under if that would trap any spin-off from burning anti-seize compounds? Anyhow, I read this post top to bottom first, and decided to follow the recommendations. We'll see how things go next time I have to replace the plugs.
Bosch YR7MPP33, which is exactly what came out. Ordered them online Sunday evening, they were waiting for me, on my doorstep, Tuesday afternoon... $44.52, after tax, title, and license... $54.07 delivered.
11-18-2013, 06:59 AM
#28
Senior Member
I changed my plugs at 97k in my 2003 E320. The car was 9 years old at the time. It is extremely inexpensive for the DIY. I ordered original Mercedes plugs through bmwmercedesparts.com. Cost me lest than $70 for all 12. My plugs were easy to remove, no rust or seizing. The tips looks as good as new, just a little black but NO carbon build up. The tips looked as good as the new tips. I simply installed new plugs, no anti-anything, and buttoned everything up and moved on.
The 2003 plug interval is 100k as per MB. That is why I used the original plugs again. I may only go about 60k on these plugs because of the age of the engine now. 130.500 miles
The 2003 plug interval is 100k as per MB. That is why I used the original plugs again. I may only go about 60k on these plugs because of the age of the engine now. 130.500 miles
11-18-2013, 11:40 AM
#29
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07 E63 + 07 CLK63CAB
A sparkplug that looks good will come out of an engine that is running well with minimal oil consumption and normal heating cycles, light to dark brown tips with small buildup of deposits. What is also important is the gap of the old plug, one can look at the plug and say it looks okay but when checked with a gap tool they see a 5-6 thou wear which is normal for a used plug with lots of miles on it. Always check a new plug going in just for piece of mind, some are spot on with the gap and every now and again one will be just as wide as the old plug coming out. DIY but do it right.
By the way anti seize material just ensures that the plug will not damage the aluminum threads when removed, steel plug and aluminum head, once you pull threads the first time, you will change your ways quickly.
By the way anti seize material just ensures that the plug will not damage the aluminum threads when removed, steel plug and aluminum head, once you pull threads the first time, you will change your ways quickly.
Last edited by Critter; 11-18-2013 at 11:45 AM.
11-18-2013, 08:21 PM
#30
Out Of Control!!
It keeps the metals from bonding and seizing, but also causes over tightening is used with "dry" thread specifications.
The threads of good plugs are (or should be) plated to prevent seizing without lubrication.
Since most seem to have no problem removing the plugs, I am guessing MB specs plugs well matched to the head material.
On Fiats, I would never install a plug without anti-seize, but tightened them "gently".
11-19-2013, 04:25 PM
#31
Super Member
The anti-seize is a double edged sword.
It keeps the metals from bonding and seizing, but also causes over tightening is used with "dry" thread specifications.
The threads of good plugs are (or should be) plated to prevent seizing without lubrication.
Since most seem to have no problem removing the plugs, I am guessing MB specs plugs well matched to the head material.
On Fiats, I would never install a plug without anti-seize, but tightened them "gently".
It keeps the metals from bonding and seizing, but also causes over tightening is used with "dry" thread specifications.
The threads of good plugs are (or should be) plated to prevent seizing without lubrication.
Since most seem to have no problem removing the plugs, I am guessing MB specs plugs well matched to the head material.
On Fiats, I would never install a plug without anti-seize, but tightened them "gently".
11-19-2013, 07:06 PM
#32
Out Of Control!!
11-19-2013, 10:51 PM
#34
Super Member
So how the hell are you going to over tighten it? Unless you have rock hard forearms and can't feel that **** anti seize or not chances are you won't screw anything up. Just sayin.....
11-20-2013, 03:33 PM
#35
Out Of Control!!
You would be surprised how easy it is to over torque a bolt (or sparkplug) with lubed threads. "Just say'n . . . . . "
12-15-2013, 07:25 AM
#36
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2014 Mercedes-Benz E550 4Matic, 2010 Subaru Legacy 3.6R
Ive used anti-seize for more than 30 years on the aluminum head on a Briggs and Stratton commercial engine. Never once had any problem with removing or using the spark plugs. I don't plan to ever remove the spark plugs on the Mercedes unless and until their is an apparent problem with engine performance. Long before that time, I will most likely have bought another car or two.
Dang after 20 yrs of using antiseize I never knew it would cause misfire so I just kept using it and being able to remove plugs later without damage to the heads. All my vehicles use antiseize on the plugs except my diesel truck. However, I am very cautions to keep a very small amount on just the threads. Somehow I would suspect the very high temps from burning gasoline might just burn the antiseize off unless it was gobbed across the electrode. But doesn't it dissolve in gasoline and high velocity air?
