W211 AGW and Sub amp remote power
02-10-2013, 06:25 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
W211 AGW and Sub amp remote power
I tried to install a Kicker IX1000.1 amplifier and one misstep on my part (by connecting speaker input to amp output 
) shut off audio. Took it to a mercedes dealer (the suckers at San Jose Stevens Creek) and paid $270 for diagnosis, my car was literally parked for 40 minutes (I was kiling time by roaming the parking lot behind), and within 20 minutes they finished the diagnosis and came up with nothing but charged me for 1 hour. Oh well. Took it to Reno Mercedes and they offered to rip the carpet apart and inspect the wiring. I said, thanks but no thanks and decided to do this myself (like I replaced the balljoints and control arm for under $200). Everything else was working fine on my Mercedes, only there was no audio. My suspicion was that it must be the AGW, so I found a replacement AGW for $150 on ebay and decided to replace and see what happens. Better than paying $270 for diagnosis and not getting anything done. After I replaced the AGW, voila, I have audio.
The purpose of my post is to share some some experience doing it (of course do some advertisement for Stevens Creek Mercedes stealership). The AGW is located on the left side of the trunk (driver side). You must pull-open the panel out of the way. There are a few snap-in holders that are easy to remove that must be removed first. Then you must also remove the three bolts that hold the rear fuse assembly. Once you move the fuse assembly out of the way there are three more bolts that hold a plate like thing on which the AGW is attached. You should remove the whole assembly (with the mounting plate that holds the AGW) to get access to the AGW. You dont really need pictures. Just take a photo of the fuse assembly, remove all fuses before you do anything there so you dont fry other components.
With my audio problem fixed I decided to install the SUB too, this time bit more carefully
, and I searched the web for any help on getting remote lead to turn on the amp only when the ignition is turned on. There were some suggestions about Fuse 14, yes Fuse 14 could be used but I did not see it turning itself off when I took the keys out. So I used Fuse 13, just tucked in a wire in the whole and then pushed the fuse and that kind of held the wire in place and tight enough. Fuse 13 is used for rear cigarette lighter plug. Hope this info helps someone in the future.
) shut off audio. Took it to a mercedes dealer (the suckers at San Jose Stevens Creek) and paid $270 for diagnosis, my car was literally parked for 40 minutes (I was kiling time by roaming the parking lot behind), and within 20 minutes they finished the diagnosis and came up with nothing but charged me for 1 hour. Oh well. Took it to Reno Mercedes and they offered to rip the carpet apart and inspect the wiring. I said, thanks but no thanks and decided to do this myself (like I replaced the balljoints and control arm for under $200). Everything else was working fine on my Mercedes, only there was no audio. My suspicion was that it must be the AGW, so I found a replacement AGW for $150 on ebay and decided to replace and see what happens. Better than paying $270 for diagnosis and not getting anything done. After I replaced the AGW, voila, I have audio. The purpose of my post is to share some some experience doing it (of course do some advertisement for Stevens Creek Mercedes stealership). The AGW is located on the left side of the trunk (driver side). You must pull-open the panel out of the way. There are a few snap-in holders that are easy to remove that must be removed first. Then you must also remove the three bolts that hold the rear fuse assembly. Once you move the fuse assembly out of the way there are three more bolts that hold a plate like thing on which the AGW is attached. You should remove the whole assembly (with the mounting plate that holds the AGW) to get access to the AGW. You dont really need pictures. Just take a photo of the fuse assembly, remove all fuses before you do anything there so you dont fry other components.
With my audio problem fixed I decided to install the SUB too, this time bit more carefully
, and I searched the web for any help on getting remote lead to turn on the amp only when the ignition is turned on. There were some suggestions about Fuse 14, yes Fuse 14 could be used but I did not see it turning itself off when I took the keys out. So I used Fuse 13, just tucked in a wire in the whole and then pushed the fuse and that kind of held the wire in place and tight enough. Fuse 13 is used for rear cigarette lighter plug. Hope this info helps someone in the future.
